Alternator regulators

muchy_

New member
Joined
3 Apr 2002
Messages
472
Location
Stalham, Norfolk (boat)
Visit site
I've just finished ripping out my old, single battery bank charging system and fitted a 2 bank system with split charge diode etc.

Next weekend I intend to fit a Sterling alternator regulator because apparently there is a voltage drop across the diode which stops the batteries from fully charging. Anyway, the instructions to the regulator mention that when fitted and working it can knock 1.5 knots off the boats speed.

Has anyone had any expierience of this?
 

halcyon

Well-known member
Joined
20 Apr 2002
Messages
10,767
Location
Cornwall
Visit site
Oh the joy of the marketing department..

The alternator load on the engine will be no more than before you fitted the blocking diodes. The regulator will only allow the alternator to run at a higher voltage to compensate for the voltage drop in diodes, or a higher voltage for a longer time. The regulator will not increase the output of the alternator, and thus the engine load, a big alternator on full load is only 3/5 hp, so unless you have a little engine you should see no differance.



Brian
 

boatone

Well-known member
Joined
29 Jul 2001
Messages
12,844
Location
Just a few cables from Boulters Lock
www.tmba.org.uk
I looked in to all this mallarkey some time ago and discovered that, providing a healthy voltage is reaching the battery posts, and battery capacity is adequate a regulator system is not really necessary. I have 3 x 110 Ah domestics and assume they will not charge above 85% and should ideally not be discharged below around 50%. This gives me over 100Ah of useable power. With heavy duty cable from alternator to battery I only see around 0.2 volts drop and the basic alternator regulator gives 14.2 volts which is more than adequate to push the amps back into the batteries with 3 or 4 hours river cruising. All the 'smart' regulator does is allow the alternator to increase output voltage to compensate for the losses in the cable and the blocking diodes....kick the blocking diodes out and make sure the cable losses are minimal and its all AOK.

Incidentally, you can measure the voltage drop twixt alternator and battery with a digital meter - one probe on the alternator positive output and the other on the battery pos post.

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.boatsontheweb.com/galleryframes.html> BoatsOnTheWeb and Boaters Photo Gallery</A>
 

JeremyF

New member
Joined
13 Jul 2001
Messages
782
Location
Solent
Visit site
I'm also confused about the 'science' of smart regulators from Adverc and Sterling. Even on a sailing yacht fitted with a diode splitter I'm getting 14.2v at the batteries. Surely this is enough. Any more, and over a prolonged period, they are going to get gassed. So why should I want a smart regulator?

<font color=blue>Jeremy Flynn/forums/images/icons/crazy.gif
Dawn Chorus</font color=blue>
 

tyger

New member
Joined
11 Dec 2001
Messages
63
Location
Hong Kong / Beijing
Visit site
<<and over a prolonged period, they are going to get gassed>>

My understanding is that one of the functions of a smart regulator is to protect batteries from overgassing. A smart regulator starts charging at a high voltage to optimise the charging rate and then reduces the voltage in stages as the battery approaches full charge.

I am not familiar with the Adverc and Sterling regulators but I do know that this is how the Xantrex regulator works. See:

//www.heartinterface.com/Products/Inst_Acc/Accessories/xar.html

These regulators also be set handle different types of battery. For example gel batteries need to be charged at lower voltages than flooded batteries to avoid gassing leading to loss of electrolyte and the death of the battery.

As always IMHO and I have no comercial relationship with the manufacturers.

Terence
 
Top