Alternatives to Anti Foul paints

Thanks, I was thinking to do my own as well just to make sure it's as clean as possible before the primer is applied. I've bought the large size in the hope it will cover props, rudders and trim tabs. Was it self -levelling as claimed? Any application tips?

Thanks
Mike
 
It was self levelling - my only tip is be very patient. Don't try and rush it. We did props and ruddersand it took all day.
We had enough to also do P brackets but left them polished to compare what effect the coating is having
 
Whitelighter said:
I applied it as I don't trust the local yard guys to do it properly.
It seems to be sticking so far
Click to expand...

J.,

about to order a kit for props, shafts, trim tabs and rudders. Was the medium sized kit enough for Seralia? Should be plenty enough for MiToS then.

cheers

V.
 
Whitelighter said:
I think we had the large kit. Used about 60% doing rudders and props. If I'd wanted to donp brackets and shafts as well I suspect the medium kit would have been a bit tight.
Click to expand...

thanks J.,

don't forget Seralia is a couple of meters longer than MiToS!
I'll order the medium and see how far I can get with it.

A final Q, site is really too well designed to give minimum vital statistics. How many years are we expecting this thing to live without reapplication?
Assuming jet washing only on each liftout!
Can we keep the opened cans of primer and top coat and use them after a year or three for touch ups? Not including biocides I cannot see any reason NOT to just asking.

cheers

V.
 
I'm about 10 years in with coppercoat and would say it's the perfect antifoul. Never more than slight slime on the sides and nothing underneath. Works for me.
 
Not to change the subject or steal the thread.... as per Coppercoats webpage you need to 'refresh' the hull by slight sanding now and then... to obtain a fresh clear copper surface. Since KevB is 10 years into Coppercoat I guess we are many that want to know how often he has done this 'refresh'. As said above I am into my 3rd year with Coopercoat only and have not yet been sanding the hull.
 
Don't disagree with any previous post but I thought I would share results of a study done for small fast ferries over 15 years ago now when I was responsible for their build at Vosper Thornycroft. First point is these coatings are not new. On commercial craft that are used continuously they have the advantage of long life and efficient avoidance of fouling.
We were then advised however that the vessel would still get fouled if not taken to sea regularly and run at at least 10-15Knots. It is also easily damaged if there is any underwater contact (like a drying mooring) and is not easy to repair unless fully dried out ashore. Another disadvantage is that once applied it is almost impossible to remove or overcoat with anything else so you should be really sure it's right for you before applying. This also means that with a GRP hull, any underwater repairs will be very difficult to do as any trace of silicone will prevent resin bonding. Personally I would think on any small vessel coppercoat is a far better alternative, especially for a sailboat which seldom achieves the speed necessary to scour off any fouling that has been picked up on the mooring. It's also unfortunately true that lifting a boat in and out of the water with strops will damage it and as most small boats are lifted this way it's something else to be taken into account. While this study was done a long time ago I still think these considerations are relevant today but if anyone knows different I would be interested to hear.
 
Don't disagree with any previous post but I thought I would share results of a study done for small fast ferries over 15 years ago now when I was responsible for their build at Vosper Thornycroft. First point is these coatings are not new. On commercial craft that are used continuously they have the advantage of long life and efficient avoidance of fouling.
We were then advised however that the vessel would still get fouled if not taken to sea regularly and run at at least 10-15Knots. It is also easily damaged if there is any underwater contact (like a drying mooring) and is not easy to repair unless fully dried out ashore. Another disadvantage is that once applied it is almost impossible to remove or overcoat with anything else so you should be really sure it's right for you before applying. This also means that with a GRP hull, any underwater repairs will be very difficult to do as any trace of silicone will prevent resin bonding. Personally I would think on any small vessel coppercoat is a far better alternative, especially for a sailboat which seldom achieves the speed necessary to scour off any fouling that has been picked up on the mooring. It's also unfortunately true that lifting a boat in and out of the water with strops will damage it and as most small boats are lifted this way it's something else to be taken into account. While this study was done a long time ago I still think these considerations are relevant today but if anyone knows different I would be interested to hear.
 
Depending on the size of the boat: maybe it's worth considering a boat lift and then not treat the hull at all.
 
vas said:
thanks J.,

don't forget Seralia is a couple of meters longer than MiToS!
I'll order the medium and see how far I can get with it.

A final Q, site is really too well designed to give minimum vital statistics. How many years are we expecting this thing to live without reapplication?
Assuming jet washing only on each liftout!
Can we keep the opened cans of primer and top coat and use them after a year or three for touch ups? Not including biocides I cannot see any reason NOT to just asking.

cheers

V.
Click to expand...

got a reply from them on the above Qs

They give a warranty for the Aquamarine silicon thing for 1yr for props and rudders, p-brackets and shafts should get two yrs depending on usage.
Primer is typically 5yrs shelf life, top coat 18m

TBH, not v.keen on spending 150quid on the half litre (medium) or 250quid on the large 1lt if it's only going to be for one yr.
Unclear how you renew it also, have to ask that as well.

And it becomes clearer that as boatmike and benjenbav say, this thing should be only used on metals and avoid hull which will be scrubbed, scored and generally suffer with the liftouts.

V.
 
Last edited:
About Time said:
Not to change the subject or steal the thread.... as per Coppercoats webpage you need to 'refresh' the hull by slight sanding now and then... to obtain a fresh clear copper surface. Since KevB is 10 years into Coppercoat I guess we are many that want to know how often he has done this 'refresh'. As said above I am into my 3rd year with Coopercoat only and have not yet been sanding the hull.
Click to expand...

I have never sanded the hull but what I do do is once a year in a shallow anchorage is swim round and give the sides a quick rub with wire wool. 10 minute job maximum. Have never touched the bottom.
 
something's odd with this thread,
KevB is listed as last poster, but cannot see p4 so last post visible is benjenbav's
So, simply posting to test if I'll be able to view p4!

cheers

V.
 
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