Alpha 1 Gen 2 drive bellow wear?

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steve the farmer

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If I have the leg off, and I am replacing the exhaust bellow, is it stupid of me not to replace the drive bellows?
Photo of outside of bellow.<a href="IMG-6144-1">
Photo of inside of bellow. <a href="IMG-6146-1">
I am hesitant as I have never done it, although have watched plenty of YouTube as to how to do it, but really because it doesn't look that bad.
Although I do not know how old it is, and wonder if like a cars cam belt, there should be a point/time to replace even if in fair condition.
 
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Have you seen those cracks in the rubber?! Water may not be in yet but when it does he will be left kicking his heels and trying to get a corroded gimbal bearing out. Good luck with that. It's a horrible job. Then there is a rusted up UJ which is a top end split to replace. And for what? a £40 part and 5 minutes of his time.
 
BruceK said:
Have you seen those cracks in the rubber?! Water may not be in yet but when it does he will be left kicking his heels and trying to get a corroded gimbal bearing out. Good luck with that. It's a horrible job. Then there is a rusted up UJ which is a top end split to replace. And for what? a £40 part and 5 minutes of his time.
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:) point taken. If I remove the bell housing to fit the drive bellows, the extra time/effort doing that, is made up with an easier job fitting the trim/sender units that I am doing.
 
Driveshaft bellows have a 5 yr shift interval, the exhaust bellows are changed on condition as these are full of water 99% of their life so are not critical. The secret to replacing exhaust bellows is fit the transom end first using a long screwdriver through the hole provided on the port side of the shield, this aligns with the hoseclip when its at 12 o’clock. Then buy two needle nose pliers with ring shaped ends, these are perfect for pulling the outer end over the stub from the insde of the exhaust passage, the ring shaped ends don’t puncture the bellow and makes this a 5 min job. Be sure to tighten the hoseclip sufficiently, then I always pull the gimbal house fully up several times to make sure its are properly on. You can also use the same bellows adhesive that you will need for the shaft bellows for extra security. While you are in there its worth replacing the gear cable and bellows as this usually ends up getting stiff which will cause the engine to cut out when shifting in and out of gear. Then you are good for many years.
 
spannerman said:
Driveshaft bellows have a 5 yr shift interval, the exhaust bellows are changed on condition as these are full of water 99% of their life so are not critical. The secret to replacing exhaust bellows is fit the transom end first using a long screwdriver through the hole provided on the port side of the shield, this aligns with the hoseclip when its at 12 o’clock. Then buy two needle nose pliers with ring shaped ends, these are perfect for pulling the outer end over the stub from the insde of the exhaust passage, the ring shaped ends don’t puncture the bellow and makes this a 5 min job. Be sure to tighten the hoseclip sufficiently, then I always pull the gimbal house fully up several times to make sure its are properly on. You can also use the same bellows adhesive that you will need for the shaft bellows for extra security. While you are in there its worth replacing the gear cable and bellows as this usually ends up getting stiff which will cause the engine to cut out when shifting in and out of gear. Then you are good for many years.
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Replace the entire cable, not just the boot? As in this part. Shift Cable Kit for Mercruiser MR, Alpha Gen I, Gen II, Repl: 865436A03

And now I am looking at where to get these parts, all I really see is aftermarket, Most bellows kits are about £60 and include gimble bearing that I don't think I need. Is aftermarket OK?
Thanks Steve.
 
Its normally the cable that gives problems before the boot. I only use original parts as the rubber on aftermarket parts is usually thinner. The kit in the link has everything you need, you will however need a deep 5/8 socket with a handle welded to one side at the top to remove the old cable and to tighten the brass fitting on the cable into the gimbal house, as the plastic inner sticks out a long way, you can do it with a good pair of molegrips on the socket if its long enough.
 
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Will I need the engine alignment tool/bar if I am not replacing the gimble bearing but just removing the gimble housing to change bellows and shift cable etc.
It looks to me to be an important part of refitting the out drive leg. Although I have not moved, or wont have moved the gimble bearing within the housing, am I going to get issues pushing the leg back on if I dont have this tool.
When I am ready to refit, shall I just try and see how it goes, or is it something that's definitely going to be needed anyway?
I was surprised that I couldn't see pre owned ones on eBay, lots of new ones for around £100. But thats a lot of ££££s for something I may never use again.
 
No, but without it you will not be able to check for engine alignment (sagging mounts, twisting etc) so it is a worthwhile investment along with a gimbal bearing puller if you plan on doing a lot of DIY. It could save you a lot of money time and effort in the long run.
 
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