Advise on coating new maple joinery

[rajjes]

Hi,

After months of replacing the interior joinery including sheeting the bulkheads with thin maple planking I’m finally at a stage to apply the finishing coats. I would really appreciate some advise on this as it will ‘do or break’ all the effort!

So, what would you recommend for finishing (new) interior maple joinery?

As the interior is very cramped (Folkboat style) I would like the finish as light as possible however durable.

Options ‘m considering are:
1. Traditional varnish - somewhat darkens the wood
2. Oil - never tried it but not too keen as I believe it requires ongoing applications
3. ‘Clear’ Varnish for interior – is this suitable?

Also, what is the general opinion on full gloss, semi matt or matt finish?

Many thanks for your help!

 

[fluffc]

Suggest you repost this to the Classic Boat forum.

I would use a normal polyurethane varnish, and accept that it will slightly darken the wood. Since the maple is very light to start with, this shouldn't be a great problem.

Thin the varnish with Genuine Turpentine for the first few coats.

It may also be worth saturating the wood in a Turpentine/Linseed Oil mix before varnidhing, to keep any dampness out of the surface. Essentially this slows down the discolouration caused by water getting in through surface damage.

 

[dbewick]

Acrylic (water-based) varnishes do not darken the wood as much as oil-based ones and would probably be OK for the interior.

 

[nedmin]

I have had good results with"satin" finish varnish.its a semi matt finish, I,ve not used on maple but looks good on teak.why not get a small tin and try.Trouble with gloss is its hard to get a good finish unless you are a professional and it marks easily.

 

[tcm]

a gloss varnish will tend to make a smaller boat feel bigger as it bounces light around, a better effect. Matt or satin varnishes are nice (i have satin on maple) and more sort-of restrained/tecnho but if i had a choice again i wd probly go for gloss.

The other advantage of gloss varnish is that (usually) it it harder to see small damage. This may seem surprising, but again, the effect of light reflecting of many surfaces still means it's "all shiny" whereas imperfections on a matt surface are easier to identify.

 

[DinghyMan]

Gloss varnishes also have more solids in so its always worth putting an undercoat of gloss on even if you are finishing with satin or matt.

 

[pampas]

Ronseal`s Borneseal (Think its spelt right) is very good and will take a polish and is also non-slip and very hard wearing, light in colour and does not darken with age,will take further coats with a light rub down.

 

[fishermantwo]

I have just fitted out my 26 footer with a maple interior. I have used outdoor furniture oil. Get the timber nice and smooth then slop on at least 3 coats of oil. The finish is a nice matt finish, timber grain shows more and only a slight darkening of the timber. Used it on my new tiller as well.

The interior of the cabin in my fishing vessel is also done in exterior oil. Only thing that can handle a bit of rough handling. Damaged areas can just be touched up. Much more practical than varnish, just slop on another coat once a year after a quick wipe down with a wet cloth.

 

[ianabc]

Tested maple and alder with 3 types of varnish...

(1) Yacht varnish the traditional type for spars / result: Surprisingly yellow finish.

(2) Regular polyurethane varnish / result darkens maple

(3) Acrylic varnish / result acceptable minor darlening still results in bright maple finish.

BUT paining the wood with hydrogen peroxide (borrowed from the poor mans vet locker) lightened maple and left a wonderful finish when coverted with 2 coats of bright acrylic varnsh. I read that first 2 or 3 coats if left clear and then overcoated with satin acrylic gives a hand rubbed looked BUT using satin throughout creates a muddy finish.

Hope this helps.

 

[Blueboatman]

Acrylics are theoretically harder but will crack before polyurethanes if there is any movement..
I am not sure that oils will prevent ingress of mold spores-which would readily spoil the lightly toned maple-unless regularly 'topped up'
Ditto if boat is laid up damp,ashore for a winter,or with inadequate consideration to a throuflow of air and the evacuation of condensation...
Gloss is well worth the effort,if you get one coat not quite right,well,rub down and add more!
A search here will reveal the experiences of others and the merits of various makes,eg Toquino(never tried it and cant spell,sorry !)seems to be quite highly praised and is very shiny...Scrupulous rubbing down,eg wet and dry 320grit,and really good varnish brushes and nice warm varnish pot and a dry dehumidified cabin(oil filled electric radiator ideal) will reward the efforts you have put into the wood itself so far.
All imo,good luck.