Advice please filling screws holes in GRP

[markcw]

Rather than do it by PM, I reckon there are plenty of people on here who would be happy to see an explanation of how to do gelcoat repairs, if you're willing to share...

I agree, have searched the net and youtube and no where can I find info on repairing screw holes in gel coat would of been great if there was vids in here showing the various gel coat repairs??
Thanks all for your comments really great full, so far I have partly filled the holes taperd the edges and used 240 grit to sand area then wiped over with acetone, but I'm not to sure if should gel coat the whole area as all the 6 screws holes are close together or do I just gel cost the separate areas in question

Thanks for the help thou really really appreciated

Mark

 

[noelex]

I am not sure where the holes are (the foredeck?) , but can you put a fitting, something (preferably useful) that will cover up the holes say a cleat?

 

[T1ony]

gelcoat repair

Hi Mark, I am just in the process of complying the info, but if I was you, I would open up the holes bigger then I would apply the gelcoat mix not Top coat with a 1/2" brush and then use a plastic card to push the mix right into the holes and spread the mix across all three holes and about 50mm each side then I would top up the holes with the brush so the gelcoat is proud of the surface as the gelcoat will shrink a little, this has to be done within 20 mins as the gelcoat will go off when mixed with the catalyst at a rate of 2%, in the mean time I have managed to bloody put this site into mobile mode and as yet can't find a way to reverse, there are no options on this page.
Tony

 

[markcw]

Thanks t1ony
Have filled all 6 holes with gelcoat filler leaving about 1-2 mm from the top, the whole area has been prep ready and is about 4x5 inches, so I'm just waiting for the gelcoat to arrive.

If I do this well then I need to attemp 2 Brocken screws in the greeny/blue section of the upper hull, but I think matching the colour will be difficult.

Would you mind of I pm you if I have further problems or questions

Mark

 

[T1ony]

gelcoat repair

Hi Mark, your welcome, if the filler is not white it may show through, the otherthing is that you donot need to cover the gelcoat, if you want to speed the hardening up use a hair dryer, also if it feels hard but a little tacky just wipe with acetone before you rub down, I didn't use wipes just a cloth but not nylon as the acetone will melt it and leave bits on the gelcoat which is a pain to remove, the otherthing while it's still tacky you can add on without rubbing down, if you send a picture to CFS for the colour parts they will be able to advise which colours to mix with, I use a tupper ware container with a sealed lid from Asda once I'm happy with the mix, because of the 20 min slot it saves having to mix up another batch which might not be the same, also I used two syringes to measure the gelcoat and the catalyst, again CFS has the larger syring but I use the smaller one from the chemist (baby food feeder) for the catalyst, your be surprised how little the 2% is, also shade the area with your hand if in sunshine when you hold the mix up to the repair area then if your happy dab a bit on to see if the colour is very good and then wipe off with acetone then add the catalyst
Tony

 

[longjohnsilver]

If you Google Scott Bader in Plymouth they will almost certainly be able to supply you with colour pots to mix in with your gelcoat. I bought some from them about 15 years ago, a little experimentation and you will get pretty close to the surrounding colour. Only put in a very small amount at a time, you can always put in more if needed but you can't take it out!

 

[markcw]

Ok this is my near finish coat, what do i do now to get it blend in.

Do i wet sand or dry sand and what grit to i have to use, in my stock curently i have 250, 400, 600 1200 wet and dry paper.

Am i right in saying if i sand to much off i will the older gelcoat will bleed through.

Any help guys as im unsure and dont want to balls it up

 

[RobWales]

Ok this is my near finish coat, what do i do now to get it blend in.

Do i wet sand or dry sand and what grit to i have to use, in my stock curently i have 250, 400, 600 1200 wet and dry paper.

Am i right in saying if i sand to much off i will the older gelcoat will bleed through.

Any help guys as im unsure and dont want to balls it up

Use a good flat sanding block and wrap the w&d around it holding tight so as it does not snag (pick up and crease on the rougher gel) use a bucket of water and add a drop of wasing up liquid Helps it glide over surface soak the area and the paper or as I do find an empty kitchen cleaner spray and use that filled with the same....start with the 1200 as it looks quite even with you and try to be random in sanding i.e using different directions, the finish you want is when the only evidence you can see is the filled void surrounded by original gel...use plenty of water to ease the paper clogging....if you find 1200 not effective try the 600 then back to the 12...good cut and polish and hey presto....photos on completion please.

 

[markcw]

Thanks
robwales
Will try your recommendation tonight, and defo post some pics on completion, thanks for the help.

 

[T1ony]

gelcoat

Hi Mark, it looks like you never mixed a pigment colour to match older colour, don't use 600 w&d at this stage use 800 w&d use wet until you can just feel it almost flat then use 1000 until is flat, then use 1200 just to take away the minute scratches from the 1000 then use the cutting compond liquid I put on the site in picture with an orange pad apply water spray to the pad all the time otherwise it will burn the gelcoat, this will polish but I like to do again with lambs wool again wet, then I use a car polish from Halfords about 44-00 quid have no pound signs.
Tony

 

[markcw]

Have been out tonight rubbing away started with 600grit for 1/12 then up to 1200 for another hour, rubbing your hand over the repaired area feel like glass no ridges or bumps really smooth, but to me its looks s!@t so noticeable the difference in colour, ive had a go at using gelcoat rubbing compound, but the service is just so smooth, so is it just making it polished to blend it in better or let the sun to the fading.

Is this how the finished article should look, or have i missed something.

Thanks for the help thou, my arms feel like popeye.

 

[DAKA]

It looks to me like you need to take a little more off, it will not take long now it is nearly level.
Once you reach the original level there should just be three filled screw holes visible.

Then polish with rubbing compound.

You will find the shine then disguises the colour difference.

Use Y10 (acid gel) over the whole area which will hopefully bleach back your original gel.

Then good polish.

 

[markcw]

Thanks daka will do more rubbing just worried I'll rube through the old original gelcoat, i wI'll try that y10 as long as it won't damage the gelcoat, hopefully working around the Southampton area the weekend so I might be able to pick some up

 

[RobWales]

Thanks daka will do more rubbing just worried I'll rube through the old original gelcoat, i wI'll try that y10 as long as it won't damage the gelcoat, hopefully working around the Southampton area the weekend so I might be able to pick some up

Don't waste your money on the y10 because the localised sanding will have removed any staining (if there was any)of the original surrounding gelcoat, hence the y10 won't do a thing!

Just finish sand the area using the 1200 removing all evidence of gel filler other than whats in the repaired areas, then cut using feracla g4 or g10 then buff to a high shine which will help to detract the eye from the filled holes.

 

[markcw]

Ok thanks rob, there so many ways to reach the end result, I have never done a lot of gelcoating so it's new to me, I'm just conforming to the recommendations kindly given to me.

Will have another go today, it's such a shame that ybw has dedicated thread for anyone attempting Gelcoat repairs???

 

[DAKA]

Don't waste your money on the y10 because the localised sanding will have removed any staining (if there was any)of the original surrounding gelcoat, hence the y10 won't do a thing!

But it hasnt yet has it !

agreed sanding will remove surface staining but Y10 will penetrate and cover a much wider area quickly without taking even more gel off, it also seams to bleach out some of the 'blue' whiteness of the new gel filler.