Advice on rebuilding 9.9hp evinrude outboard

stav

stav

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Hi, I try to run a little open boat for a spot of fishing but because of Jandavina it has to be run on zero budget. Therefore a couple of years ago I pulled an old outboard from the local skip the throttle and other parst where seized so I freed them all up and have use it for a couple of seasons with limited cooling water!

However at the end of last season I found it full of sea water: completely. So I removed what I could and filled with old diesel until this weekend when I have stripped t down completely A lot of fun and real therapy for how busy I am at work at the moment. So it is completely in bits down to crank, pistons and various aluminium castings.

So questions:

Does anybody think it will run again if reassembled? Bores smooth with no pitting/ridges etc and seem to be the original diameter 2.18"?

Where can I ge cheap spare parts: Currently need, complete gasket set, piston rings, and a thermostat. If it all goes together and starts will rebuild the water pump end.

It is a 1979 model 109B63B 9.hp twin cylinder evinrude.

I have found on the tinternet mallory and serra piston ring replacements but only in USA, are they available in UK?

Thoughts and ideas welcome.

Cheers.
 
The parts in the UK will be the same price in £s and the US price in $s. I bought a needle valve for £26 in the UK which was $27 in the US. Stands to reason, except the motors are built in Belgium. So buy them from US and pay shipping. Probably cheaper anyway. I've used Will's Marine in Devon for all Evinrude/Johnson parts. They are very knowledgeable and reliable.
But even just a few gaskets and impellor will start to add up. Then it may not run?
e-bay often has lots of spares, but that's a bit of a lottery (well, it's an auction actually).

I'd be tempted to keep an eye open for another motor. Trouble is that size is very much in demand.
 
If it's a 2 stroke there's not much to go wrong and I'd clean it up fit new gaskets and waterpump impellor and give it a go. 4 strokes are more complicated and more likely (arguably) to give trouble after being flooded with sea water. Even so I'd have a go but with less liklihood of success
 
If it's been "full" of seawater for a while the main and big-end bearings (and small-ends, too, assuming they're roller) could well be history. If they're free to turn and feel smooth, you might be lucky, but don't be surprised if they start to rumble somwhere down the line. Basic marine two-strokes aren't highly stressed, and can clatter on like this for ages; often they'll continue to run until the crankcase seals fail through bearing on rusty crud. Symptoms incude difficult starting and revs rising inexplicably on constant throttle openings. If the latter happens, fix it: it can lead to piston damage from weakening of the fuel-air mixture.
 
Practically every thing you will want to know about OMC 9.9 hp engines ( and 15hp) you will find at

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Ramblings.html#OMRA

You will also find lots of useful info on the "Engine frequently asked questions" board of the iBoats forums Well worth running down the list of topics ( 2 pages now) for anything relevant

and of course you will be able to get answers to specific questions from professionals and other experts on the "Johnson and Evinrude outboards" forum at iBoats.

In addition to Lakey's recommendation of Willsmarine I will recommend Oakley Marine in Brighton for spares at http://www.outboards-direct.co.uk/

I am sorry but I dont know a source of Sierra, Mallory or CDI parts in the UK.
iBoats may ship but the cost of shipping will offset any benefit I'd guess.

Official electronic parts catalog and diagrams can be found at http://shop.evinrude.com/ although you may not find the Belgian model number specifically listed. UK dealars will recognize it though
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the comments. i have actually been and visited the local outboard guy and bought some sort of resonably priced non evinrude parts so about £100 lighter but have a gasket set, piston rings, thermostat and crank shaft oil seals on order. Hopefully they will arrive whilst I have some idea of how it goes together!
 
Evinrude outboard

Before you spend money make sure you can dismantle the bottom end. Seized bolts and corrosion may well spell the end of the motor. (If you can get it apart puting back is easy). Clean out the tube from pump to power head and at least check the impeller. Also if it is like the 6/8Hp make sure the gear shift mechanism in the top of the power head is free.
The electronics may give trouble needs a replacement box. Other wise it should be a goer. Are you suyre the rings are bad? May be quite OK. good luck olewill
 
Does the cooling water tube enter the power head through a rubber grommet?
If so get a new one.
That's the man cause on the smaller Johnson twins for bad cooling water flow.
 
There were several completely different models around that size and one was the smallest OMC engine to utilise "leaf valves" a spring steel plate which shut off the carburrettor choke tube as the piston came down to maximise the transfer of the charge to the combustion chamber through the transfer ports. It was my experience that if these were corroded, even in the slightest then the engine would start poorly and run even worse. This is why it is important with these engines in particular to stop them on oil if long term storage is intended.

Gently does it when unscrewing steel screws into aluminium and it's a good idea to clean the threads with a plug nosed tap before re-assembly using a little diesel as a lubricant. Don't grease the screws as this has been known to split the castings.

Chas
 
It would be useful if you could get an exploded parts diagram for this engine. I have the same engine. These engines were also imported in great numbers to France where mine was sold. I believe mine was made in Mexico. I also understand that the 15hp engine is the same but with a larger carburettor. I need to replace my impeller but need a parts manual.
 
Jim@sea said:
It would be useful if you could get an exploded parts diagram for this engine. I have the same engine. These engines were also imported in great numbers to France where mine was sold. I believe mine was made in Mexico. I also understand that the 15hp engine is the same but with a larger carburettor. I need to replace my impeller but need a parts manual.
Click to expand...

The official parts catalog in my link above to http://shop.evinrude.com/ has exploded parts diagrams, but you have to zoom in to read them

Also you will find them at www.boats.net and at http://www.crowleymarine.com

The trouble you may encounter with all of these is that they seem to only include the model numbers for engines sold in the USA. You will have to look at the daigrams for whatever is listed if your paticular model number is not listed.

Copies of the official manuals are available from Ken Cook at www.outboardbooks.com Nothing online apart from owners manuals for very recent models
 
Thanks the drawings will be invaluable. The local guy reckons the parts will be here tomorrow. Now that is a dilemma as the tides are good for a sail.......

However one last question can I put the aluminium castings in the dishwasher or will the tablets pit the surfaces? (I mentioned the idea very tentatively to SWMBO)!

Also gasket seal as well as the gaskets? If so what sort? I am sure the ideal is non but I would rather ensure reliability. Also torque settings, more so I do not stripe any threads in the aluminium? Also a spot of grease on he threads? Locotite? Copper grease?

Thanks.
 
stav said:
Thanks the drawings will be invaluable. The local guy reckons the parts will be here tomorrow. Now that is a dilemma as the tides are good for a sail.......

However one last question can I put the aluminium castings in the dishwasher or will the tablets pit the surfaces? (I mentioned the idea very tentatively to SWMBO)!

Also gasket seal as well as the gaskets? If so what sort? I am sure the ideal is non but I would rather ensure reliability. Also torque settings, more so I do not stripe any threads in the aluminium? Also a spot of grease on he threads? Locotite? Copper grease?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Always found "Blue Hylomar" best for aluminium, where appropriate. However Red Hermetite comes a close second.

Chas
 
Don't use gasket goo anywhere around water passages (head/leg joint) The gasket makes it's own seal and using gasket goo will end up with blocked water passages.
I've just cleaned out an Evinrude with that problem.
 
Blue Hylomar probably the best gasket cement to use where necessary. Head gaskets may be coated , in which case to gasket cement.

Torque setting are important esp things like cylinder head bolts and the nut that holds the flywheel.

You need a workshop manual to find them but you maybe able to persuade the experts on the iBoats forum to tell you what they are.
 
Full of water

You stated that the engine was "full of water" in your first message. If the engine was not dropped into the water I would first try to find out where that water was coming from, you may have a corroded water jacket or some splits in the casing. Have you traced the source yet?
 
Hi thanks for the extra replys: very useful.

I have some Blue Hylomar so will use carefully and as appropriate. As for the water coming in I took the carb apart last night and found it full of sand and grit. Also had troble this year with finding her on the last threads of the mooring bridle..... Kids? Or some one else not sure. I would give up with it but my 6 yr old loves going fishing and happy to (help) gut and eat the fish and crab/lobster we get! We do not get much though, may be a dozen or eighteen mackeral, small pollcock, couple of bream, a lobster and three crabs. Being out there on a calm evening with daughter is grad though.

Cheers Guys.
 
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