Adjustable Boat Chocks

[PEJ]

Thanks for this Mike,

See the fittings in ringed in red - they are the same fittings that my SS base clips on to - are they standard factory fitted?. The ones in yellow - are they the "top hat" one that you had fitted? And the one in blue - is that the one you screw the eye hole in to for strapping down the dinghy?

 

[PEJ]

Ours are not bolted .
The PO just had female holes put discreetly in the BP and male pegs under the teak chocks
Presume the weight and tie downs hold them down .When the tender is deployed they just lift up - no unbolting to do .
Currently we don,t use them ( have a flat bottom tender ar the mo ) they are in a locker — nice bits of kit :encouragement:
It’s all about ease of use ,minimal stubbing etc - and less risk of gel coat damage

https://imgur.com/gallery/O8WK5

View attachment 67135

They look like these - not mine but it illustrates the lack of “metal “ bolts on display

So, am I right in assuming that as soon as you launch the dinghy you take up the chocs and stow them safely until you want to put the dinghy back again?

 

[Hurricane]

Thanks for this Mike,

See the fittings in ringed in red - they are the same fittings that my SS base clips on to - are they standard factory fitted?. The ones in yellow - are they the "top hat" one that you had fitted? And the one in blue - is that the one you screw the eye hole in to for strapping down the dinghy?

Essentially - yes to all your questions

I do have a pair of these surplus to requirements.

The black strip in the second pic is made from neoprene rubber.
I think the idea is that it holds the chock in tension against the key slots.
IMO, it would just lead to the whole chock waggling around.

Any use to you?
I chose not to use them during any of my chock mods.
The "inverted top hat" drop in solution is much easier to use and install.

 

[jfm]

The black strip in the second pic is made from neoprene rubber.
I think the idea is that it holds the chock in tension against the key slots.
IMO, it would just lead to the whole chock waggling around.

I agree with you mike and I wouldn't want those neoprene stripes (=see-saw-fulcrums) for the same reason. Not great design at all.

 

[PEJ]

I do have a pair of these surplus to requirements.

Any use to you?
.

PM Sent

 

[PEJ]

here is a adjusteable (and removeable) model from H+B technic in Germany.

http://www.h-btechnics.com/de/produkte/sst-cradle-einstellbar

we purchased this together with the hilo mechanism 5 years ago,
don't remember the price, they will give a quote direct to you

Bart, thanks for this.

I got a price from their UK dealer of £1,900.00 (!)

So I am definitely going with teak. Dan Buckingham of C-Line Marine charged me £216.00 first time round.

 

[Bouba]

I made my chocks out of soft wood. Easy to find for free or cheap to buy, very easy to work. An electric sander is your best weapon as it goes through soft wood quickly and you can easily make fine adjustments to perfectly match the chock to the hull. DIY in less than a day

 

[jfm]

But real teak is <£100 and is soft. (It's called "hardwood" but that just means it comes from a deciduous tree, not that it's actually hard).

The tender can bash the chock and you need reasonable strength along the grain, otherwise you can easily break off a triangle of wood at the end of the chocks with a tender bash. Teak is stronger than softwood in this respect. More important on hi-lo than if you're using a crane. I actually have a 20mm dia x 180 long (then trimmed) teak dowel drilled/glued vertically into the end of each chock, for this reason. Invisible apart from seeing the end grain of the dowel when the tender isn't on the chock.

 

[MrB]

But real teak is <£100 and is soft. (It's called "hardwood" but that just means it comes from a deciduous tree, not that it's actually hard).

The tender can bash the chock and you need reasonable strength along the grain, otherwise you can easily break off a triangle of wood at the end of the chocks with a tender bash. Teak is stronger than softwood in this respect. More important on hi-lo than if you're using a crane. I actually have a 20mm dia x 180 long (then trimmed) teak dowel drilled/glued vertically into the end of each chock, for this reason. Invisible apart from seeing the end grain of the dowel when the tender isn't on the chock.

Badassery chocks :encouragement: