Adhesive for hardwood cockpit moulding

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kalanka

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I need to fix a 1.8 metre length of 30mm L section ramin moulding to the edge of the teak veneer cockpit seating. It is exposed to weather, occasional sea water and foot traffic.

What adhesive will give the strongest and longest lasting fix?

Should I expect to use screw or pins as well? I am keen not to provide a trigger for splitting.

The moulding will need to be oiled with Deks Olje or varnished. Should I do this before or after installation?

I should probably say that ramin is a compromise - I failed to find an L section moulding in my preferred iroko. I am not convinced it will last but hope that if well fixed it may do a few years...

Thanks
 
Can you clamp the section? You could use epoxy but I would probably opt for such as Semporac. At half a litre it's not the most economic if that is all to be glued. I have used Gorilla Wood Glue. Very effective, will fill any voids but would need good clamping - but anything would be needed it that application. I would opt for the Semporac or Gorilla over epoxy because I assume it isn't new cockpit seating. Gorilla or Semporac will cure using any moisture in wood.
 
kalanka said:
I need to fix a 1.8 metre length of 30mm L section ramin moulding to the edge of the teak veneer cockpit seating. It is exposed to weather, occasional sea water and foot traffic.

What adhesive will give the strongest and longest lasting fix?

Should I expect to use screw or pins as well? I am keen not to provide a trigger for splitting.

The moulding will need to be oiled with Deks Olje or varnished. Should I do this before or after installation?

I should probably say that ramin is a compromise - I failed to find an L section moulding in my preferred iroko. I am not convinced it will last but hope that if well fixed it may do a few years...

Thanks
Click to expand...

Ramin is a non-durable wood and has significant movement in service so, if the section traps any water it may rot, and due to the L section likely to split if glued well. I know you said you may have to renew in a few years but have you considered how you will remove it when that time comes?

If you can't find Iroko (good choice!) in L section why not buy two rectangular strips to form the L and use a good polyurethane adhesive such as those recommend by Tillergirl and make a much more permanent job of it. If you use these adhesives, do not rely on their gap-filling properties. They foam to fill gaps but the resulting foam has poor strength.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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Judging by their descriptions aren't Semporac and Gorrilla both Polyurathene wood glues ? - so basically the same thing, but Gorilla is available in smaller bottles. If you do go for Gorrilla, be sure to buy the Polyurathene as they have now started to use the same Gorrilla brand name for other glues as well.

If you end up buying a larger bottle always store it upside down so that the moisture in the air is effectively at the bottom of the bottle and not causing the glue at the top to go off.
 
My yard the boatbuilder swore by Balcotan. Needs good clamping but he said he had seen the timber fail before the joint let go. It too is a Polyurethane moisture curing glue, so it doesn't matter if the wood had a high moisture content, which would substantially weaken an epoxy join
 
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