Additives for small outboard petrol. Any recommendations?

steve66 said:
Drain the carb bowl after every use and keep the fuel in the tank fresh and you will never ever get the problem again
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+1

When I finish with the engine if gets flushed with fresh water with the the fuel switch in the off position to empty the carb bowl.

The other trick is never let any water in the tank. Currently using fuel that has been in the green can for 18 months with no problem.
 
Sandy said:
+1

When I finish with the engine if gets flushed with fresh water with the the fuel switch in the off position to empty the carb bowl.

The other trick is never let any water in the tank. Currently using fuel that has been in the green can for 18 months with no problem.
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Be careful, you will get a rowlocking for not giving the OP the advice that he asked for!!
 
Sandy said:
True, but I am pretty sure bio fuel is not the problem

After all Scotland is about to produce fuel from whisky.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-28017915
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I agree I also think Bio Fuel is not the issue. Im sure there was an episode on tbe Dukes of Hazzard where they made fuel out of "shine". I think the first few litres of alcohol distilled in a batch is wood alcohol and would be viable
 
sarabande said:
For all petrol tools (chainsaws, strimmers, hedge cutters, etc) I use premium petrol (plus oil for 2 strokes) and a dose of Briggs and Stratton Fuel Fit. In the two years I have been using it, I have not had any stoppage due to a fuel or carburation problem, OK, it has cost me about 15% more than 'cooking ' supermarket petrol, but starting is easier and the machines run well.
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Big +1 for Fuel Fit, I use it on mower fuel, strimmer, Honda o/b and my old Seagull, it really does seem to work.
 
An age old problem with outboards.....simple solution as mentioned. Turn the fuel off and let it run out of fuel...been doing this for years...never had a problem since.
Don't need to do it every time...just when you know it isn't going to get used for a while. I tend to do it every time though. Only takes a few extra pulls to get her going again.
 
I always stop my outboard by turning off the fuel.
It's a 3.3 Mariner/3.5 Tohatsu 2-stroke.
I'd recommend that as the most likely answer to the OP's problem.
In my case, nothing to do with superior insight - just an unwillingness to spend £89 on a replacement combined kill-switch & starter cord mechanism on an OB which coat me £M80.
In the 3 seasons I've done this, the need to repeatedly clean the carb has disappeared. In usage terms that has amounted to 25 litres of petroil mixture.
 
andygc said:
So when we're away from home we anchor, go ashore for a meal, come back, drain the carb, go to bed, wake up, refuel, go to the beach, drain the carb, swim and sunbathe, have a barbecue, refuel, go back to the boat, drain the carb ........
Thank you for a really helpful suggestion. That's much appreciated.
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I think before period of no use is what is probably meant. We have to drain the carb on our small tender 2str outboard if we are not going use it for a while because we have to transport it.

The main outboard 4str. I am not draining at the moment, other than at end of season.
 
Are we going in circles? If stopping the engine by turning off the fuel leaves the float chamber half full as RichardS says, and if the less fuel there is in the chamber the faster it turns to gum as Thinwater says, then I've got to reverse my practice, stop the engine by pressing the stop button and rely on additives.
The only thing I know for sure is that my tree surgeon uses his chainsaws all the time and so always has fresh fuel and his saws start instantly.

Next opinion please.
 
richardabeattie said:
Are we going in circles? If stopping the engine by turning off the fuel leaves the float chamber half full as RichardS says, and if the less fuel there is in the chamber the faster it turns to gum as Thinwater says, then I've got to reverse my practice, stop the engine by pressing the stop button and rely on additives.
The only thing I know for sure is that my tree surgeon uses his chainsaws all the time and so always has fresh fuel and his saws start instantly.

Next opinion please.
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That's the whole point, regular use and largish volumes of fuel = no problems

My strimmer 100:1 mix uses about 5ltrs over two years, the Honda o/b about the same. The 25:1 mix for the Seagull is in its second season. No issues since using Fuel Fit, plenty before.
 
richardabeattie said:
Are we going in circles? If stopping the engine by turning off the fuel leaves the float chamber half full as RichardS says, and if the less fuel there is in the chamber the faster it turns to gum as Thinwater says, then I've got to reverse my practice, stop the engine by pressing the stop button and rely on additives.
The only thing I know for sure is that my tree surgeon uses his chainsaws all the time and so always has fresh fuel and his saws start instantly.

Next opinion please.
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Maybe RichardS is in error? Though probably in poor taste to mention it or his unhandiness with throwing hammers, or thunderbolts ;-)
 
Flica said:
Maybe RichardS is in error? Though probably in poor taste to mention it or his unhandiness with throwing hammers, or thunderbolts ;-)
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Hmm, yes he does seem prone to throwing his toys out of his pram if anyone disagrees with him!
:)
Stu
 
guyd said:
Look at aspen fuel. Available in two and four stroke varieties
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I thought that Aspen, which is synthetic petrol and so is supposed to last several years and have zero nasty residues, would be perfect. I bought some of their 2-stroke stuff, pre-mixed to 50:1, and tried it in my Mercury 3.3. After 5 or 10 mins on this Aspen 2-stroke fuel there was an almighty bang and the engine stopped dead. A broken piston ring to cut a long story short. Imho, Aspen may be good for the petrol replacement, but I absolutely don't recommend it for the 2-stroke oil part: get normal 2-stroke oil and make up your own 50:1.
 
Flica said:
Maybe RichardS is in error? Though probably in poor taste to mention it or his unhandiness with throwing hammers, or thunderbolts ;-)
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skipper_stu said:
Hmm, yes he does seem prone to throwing his toys out of his pram if anyone disagrees with him!
:)
Stu
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steve66 said:
Think you have the wrong Richard lads !!
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Many thanks for the clarification, Steve. :)

I read the first two posts in a state of total confusion. :confused:

Richard
 
richardabeattie said:
Are we going in circles? If stopping the engine by turning off the fuel leaves the float chamber half full as RichardS says, and if the less fuel there is in the chamber the faster it turns to gum as Thinwater says, then I've got to reverse my practice, stop the engine by pressing the stop button and rely on additives.
The only thing I know for sure is that my tree surgeon uses his chainsaws all the time and so always has fresh fuel and his saws start instantly.

Next opinion please.
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Shutting off the fuel and allowing the engine to run out of fuel (and perhaps after a quick choke and restart), most certainly helps to avoid restarting problems after storage periods, short and long.
There should be no doubt about this. None at all.
 
For those who advocate using premium petrol to avoid FAME, I asked the petrol; companies , and only BP said that their premium petrol was FAME free.
 
chewi said:
For those who advocate using premium petrol to avoid FAME, I asked the petrol; companies , and only BP said that their premium petrol was FAME free.
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Are you absolutely sure about this? Fatty Acid Methyl Ester is bio-diesel. I'm surprised that it gets put into petrol at all. I thought that the 'bio' additive for petrol was ethanol, but I could be wrong and would love to know.
 
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