Adding windlass controls in the cockpit

[wvansl]

Hi!
I have a boat from 2000 with a Lofrans Cayman windlass with 2-foot buttons. I would like to add a control switch (up and down). How does this work?
I haven't looked yet at how to foot buttons work but I guess it is just a 12v wire that is open/closed depending if you press the button. Could I just create an extra system like this in the cockpit for the up/down buttons?

 

[rogerthebodger]

I used a 3 position toggle switch to control my Lofrans windlass,

SPDT on (off) on spring to centre


https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-RT132...468-8460-e15857d615f5&pd_rd_i=B07ZX8M3XC&th=1

 

[Clancy Moped]

We had this set up Lewmar 3-Button Windlass Wireless Remote Kit

 

[Neeves]

Cannot answer your question but suspect if you look at the owners manual it will define exactly how it is done.

You need to ensure that the toggle switch to operate from the cockpit cannot be accidentally activated. Windlass are immensely powerful and will take a finger off without blinking.

Jonathan

 

[Cariadco]

Did my boat, fairly straightforward.
Use normal twin & Earth three core cable, installed a proper switch (as above) in the cockpit.
The wiring to the Solenoid took a little working out as nothing was identified.
I used these piggyback Connectors:
And a cheep Switch from ebay, like this:

 

[Sandy]

I have the up/down controls on a long lead that I can walk back to the cockpit with. To date, I mainly single hand a 10 metre boat, I have never done so as I prefer to see what the anchor is doing.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Hi!
I have a boat from 2000 with a Lofrans Cayman windlass with 2-foot buttons. I would like to add a control switch (up and down). How does this work?
I haven't looked yet at how to foot buttons work but I guess it is just a 12v wire that is open/closed depending if you press the button. Could I just create an extra system like this in the cockpit for the up/down buttons?

Simply run a 3 core cable from the windlass contactor (relay pack) to an momentary on-off-momentary on switch in the cockpit. Make sure you fuse the positive wire at the contactor. Ignore post # suggestion of "normal twin & Earth three core cable". It's a good idea to fit a second switch, out of the way, to isolate the windlass switch, so the windlass cannot be accidentally operated.

An easier solution would be to fit a remote. The receiver connects to the contactor, as above, but no need to run cable the length of the boat, you can use it anywhere and it has it's own on/off switch on the remote.

12V Electric Wireless Winch Remote Control Handset For Heavy Duty Truck ATV SUV | eBay

 

[Stemar]

WOW - I had no idea they could be so cheap! Order placed!

 

[rogerthebodger]

. It's a good idea to fit a second switch, out of the way, to isolate the windlass switch, so the windlass cannot be accidentally operated.

I fitted a circuit breaker to act s a fuse and to isolate the windlass control as Pauls suggested


I have a remote control but the delay when you release the button causes the windlass to carry on running for a short time after the button is released

 

[dansaskip]

Here is a wiring diagram than might help and as others suggest do fit a circuit breaker so that the switches, foot and cockpit can't be operated accidentaly. It's easier done than you might think. I forget once and a sheet flicking in the cockpit deployed the anchor just when I didn't want it!

 

[john_morris_uk]

Here’s our remote. But we’ve also got foot buttons on the deck and we use the foot buttons 99% of the time.

 

[West Coast]

Simply run a 3 core cable from the windlass contactor (relay pack) to an momentary on-off-momentary on switch in the cockpit. Make sure you fuse the positive wire at the contactor. Ignore post # suggestion of "normal twin & Earth three core cable". It's a good idea to fit a second switch, out of the way, to isolate the windlass switch, so the windlass cannot be accidentally operated.

An easier solution would be to fit a remote. The receiver connects to the contactor, as above, but no need to run cable the length of the boat, you can use it anywhere and it has it's own on/off switch on the remote.

12V Electric Wireless Winch Remote Control Handset For Heavy Duty Truck ATV SUV | eBay

I have found that these cheaper eBay remote controllers have a small but noticeable delay (both on/off) in operation - something which needs a bit of getting used to.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Here’s our remote. But we’ve also got foot buttons on the deck and we use the foot buttons 99% of the time.

I also have a remote control and cockpit switch but tend to only use the fordeck foot switch most of the time

 

[wonkywinch]

Is it worth wiring in a chain counter at the same time? Ours is invaluable for short handed operations.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Is it worth wiring in a chain counter at the same time? Ours is invaluable for short handed operations.

I have a chain counter in my inside steering station that can be seen from the cockpit so useful for remote operation

 

[vyv_cox]

My Maxwell came with a cockpit toggle switch as standard. I added foot switches on the foredeck. Cockpit switching is absolutely the best aid to stern-to berthing in Greece and other parts of the Med.

 

[Neeves]

I prefer foot switches as you can see what is happening.

From the cockpit you commonly cannot see where the rode is 'pointing' and if you have the chain abrading on the bow roller when the chain is at 45 degrees to the yacht you will wear the cheeks off the bow roller and remove the galvanising from the chain.

Jonathan

 

[dunedin]

We fitted a Quick wireless remote (also operates the bow thruster). Brilliant.

Can start lowering from the helm, then walk forward whilst still paying out smoothly. Often complete the exercise standing by the shrouds for best visibility. Then walk forward to put snubber on then back to helm to set fully.
Also acts as backup in case the wired controls at the bows give up due to corrosion.
Personally I wouldnt waste time and money fitting a wired control in the cockpit. Wireless connections are all below decks so much less risk of corrosion.

 

[Tranona]

We fitted a Quick wireless remote (also operates the bow thruster). Brilliant.

Can start lowering from the helm, then walk forward whilst still paying out smoothly. Often complete the exercise standing by the shrouds for best visibility. Then walk forward to put snubber on then back to helm to set fully.
Also acts as backup in case the wired controls at the bows give up due to corrosion.
Personally I wouldnt waste time and money fitting a wired control in the cockpit. Wireless connections are all below decks so much less risk of corrosion.

Same thing but with a Sidepower remote. Never use the foot switches and not even bothered to run the bow thruster control back to the cockpit, partly because there is no sensible place to locate it with a tiller steered boat. it was different with a wheel steered boat, at least for the bow thruster.

One can't be too dogmatic about such things it all depends on the layout of the boat and the way you work it.

 

[john_morris_uk]

We fitted a Quick wireless remote (also operates the bow thruster). Brilliant.

Can start lowering from the helm, then walk forward whilst still paying out smoothly. Often complete the exercise standing by the shrouds for best visibility. Then walk forward to put snubber on then back to helm to set fully.
Also acts as backup in case the wired controls at the bows give up due to corrosion.
Personally I wouldnt waste time and money fitting a wired control in the cockpit. Wireless connections are all below decks so much less risk of corrosion.

Careful! We lower like that as well but there are some on here who will claim we’re all going to die unless one knocks the clutch off and allow the chain to run free.