Adding warp to chain

Should have added that the intention is to splice the warp into the chain, rather than shackle it on (unless that's not a good idea for any reason).

Depends how often you'll deploy the whole rode. In my case,I have 60metres chain,so seldom deploy even that.I do have 50metres octoplait wit stainless eye at each end so it can be shackled on if required,or used independently e.g. as a towrope.
 
Re octoplait:
Yes, for passing through a windlass but 3-strand with an eye and a nice long splice is probably cheaper , and just as effective.
I'm surprised by this statement because all the windlasses I've investigated specify 3 strand rope for rope/chain gypsies. If you know a windlass that that can take octoplait and chain on the gypsy I'd be glad if you could let me know.
 
I've used 3-strand for years. It's easy to splice but it is more susceptible to chafe than plaited.

Plaited also has the benefit of stowing easily in lockers. 3-strand, when it gets dirty, also gets stiff and might need encoragement to settle in the locker.

Octaplat ? is probably good ...... but I've used softer plaited rope that is inclined to get over-turns on the rope drum as tends to flatten on the drum and gets over-lapped with the on-coming rope before it comes off..... Badly described, but I hope you get my meaning.

Neat splicing is important in order to get the rope/chain connection through most windlass orfices. If you use a metal eye on the rode you will have to detach the rode first, unless your windlass arrangement allows it to pass into the locker.
 
ok, so next question. what size octuplat? Im looking at getting some as i dont have any, but i have no idea on size. the boat is 38ft, she weighs around 9 ton, and has 10mm chain on the bow.

would 16mm octuplat be sufficiant or should i get bigger?
 
16mm should be fine, the bigger the better.

One problem though ........ if your windlass is a horizontal axis type with a rope/chain gypsy, you may have problems with the rope slipping in the gypsy due to lack of weight of the rope rode. The vertical axis type aren't usually as sensitive to rode weight, but you can still get snarl-ups if the rope is not encouraged to fall into the locker.
 
ok, so next question. what size octuplat? Im looking at getting some as i dont have any, but i have no idea on size. the boat is 38ft, she weighs around 9 ton, and has 10mm chain on the bow.

would 16mm octuplat be sufficiant or should i get bigger?

Rope size is a function of chain size if you are splicing. There is a chart on the Jimmy Green site with all the information you need and details of different splices depending on whether you go for 3 strand or multi.
 
Re octoplait:

I'm surprised by this statement because all the windlasses I've investigated specify 3 strand rope for rope/chain gypsies. If you know a windlass that that can take octoplait and chain on the gypsy I'd be glad if you could let me know.

Are we talking about a single gypsy for both rope and chain, or the kind of windlass that has two gypsies, one for rope and one for chain? Octoplait is obviously OK for the second kind.
 
Rope size is a function of chain size if you are splicing. There is a chart on the Jimmy Green site with all the information you need and details of different splices depending on whether you go for 3 strand or multi.

It all depends on the splice.

If your feeding the end of the hollow braid back into the centre of the braid then you have no control on the diameter of the end of the loop ..... in which case, if it is too big to pass through a link of the chain, you can add a galvanised shackle, cut the pin flush and peen over the thread end. Before doing that though you must make sure that the shackle can pass through any windlass aperture.

If not, you just reduce the number of strands passing through the link/s and back-splice.
 
It all depends on the splice.

in which case, if it is too big to pass through a link of the chain, you can add a galvanised shackle, cut the pin flush and peen over the thread end. Before doing that though you must make sure that the shackle can pass through any windlass aperture.

QUOTE]

Why not just use a shackle with a hex head which is flush anyway?
 
It all depends on the splice.

If your feeding the end of the hollow braid back into the centre of the braid then you have no control on the diameter of the end of the loop ..... in which case, if it is too big to pass through a link of the chain, you can add a galvanised shackle, cut the pin flush and peen over the thread end. Before doing that though you must make sure that the shackle can pass through any windlass aperture.

If not, you just reduce the number of strands passing through the link/s and back-splice.

Would not be using braid for an anchor warp. The normal is either 3 strand (my preference) or anchorplait. Either of these can be spliced into chain so that they will go over a wndlass gypsy. The correct size for 10mm chain is either 16 or 18mm. Either will splice smoothly if done properly. Back splicing is not suitable usually because the splice is too large - and not any easier to do. Shackle and eye splice only really suitable if you do not want a permanent link.
 
Would not be using braid for an anchor warp. The normal is either 3 strand (my preference) or anchorplait. Either of these can be spliced into chain so that they will go over a wndlass gypsy. The correct size for 10mm chain is either 16 or 18mm. Either will splice smoothly if done properly. Back splicing is not suitable usually because the splice is too large - and not any easier to do. Shackle and eye splice only really suitable if you do not want a permanent link.

As usual with these things, there's several ways of doing it ...... and several different types of rope too.

The anchorplait splice shown here:
http://www.sw-marine.co.uk/acatalog/8_strand_multiplait_to_chain_Splice.html
looks pretty effective.

Also the anchorplait here looks pretty solid .... i.e. won't collapse on a rope drum.
 
It all depends on the splice.

in which case, if it is too big to pass through a link of the chain, you can add a galvanised shackle, cut the pin flush and peen over the thread end. Before doing that though you must make sure that the shackle can pass through any windlass aperture.

QUOTE]

Why not just use a shackle with a hex head which is flush anyway?

No real problem, except that you're probably talking about a stainless shackle that will cause degradation of the galvanising on the end chain links. No much of a problem ...... just shorten the chain by a foot or so when necessary.
 
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