adding antifreeze to a 1GM 10 for the winter

[Burnham Bob]

I've offered to help a friend winterise his 1GM10. However, when I used to winterise mine, I used to run the engine up to hot using a hose with a squeeze trigger to keep the Vetus water strainer filled up, and allowing the water from the exhaust to run out onto the concrete in the drive. (In those days I had a big enough house to store the boat in the front garden.) Once the engine was hot I knew the thermostat was open so when I poured in four litres of 50/50 antifreeze I knew it was going all the way round the block, out the exhaust and into the water trap.

Trouble is, my friend's boat is in the boatyard shed. No running water and hardly receptive to the idea of gallons of water on the floor. Did I really need to run the engine up to hot to open the thermostat? Thinking about it, the antisyphon valve would have released pressure while the thermostat was still open and the block would have drained - I think. So, there was no need to circulate antifreeze round the block as the waterways were empty. Adding antifreeze with the thermostat closed and just running the engine for enough time to suck through two coke bottles worth of 50/50 should protect the raw water system etc.

Admittedly a hot engine made the oil change easier too, but it's going to be difficult in the shed. What's the forum's view?

 

[sailorman]

I've offered to help a friend winterise his 1GM10. However, when I used to winterise mine, I used to run the engine up to hot using a hose with a squeeze trigger to keep the Vetus water strainer filled up, and allowing the water from the exhaust to run out onto the concrete in the drive. (In those days I had a big enough house to store the boat in the front garden.) Once the engine was hot I knew the thermostat was open so when I poured in four litres of 50/50 antifreeze I knew it was going all the way round the block, out the exhaust and into the water trap.

Trouble is, my friend's boat is in the boatyard shed. No running water and hardly receptive to the idea of gallons of water on the floor. Did I really need to run the engine up to hot to open the thermostat? Thinking about it, the antisyphon valve would have released pressure while the thermostat was still open and the block would have drained - I think. So, there was no need to circulate antifreeze round the block as the waterways were empty. Adding antifreeze with the thermostat closed and just running the engine for enough time to suck through two coke bottles worth of 50/50 should protect the raw water system etc.

Admittedly a hot engine made the oil change easier too, but it's going to be difficult in the shed. What's the forum's view?

a bucket with a plastic skin fitting in the bottom / side hung under the exhaust outlet with a hose from the bucket to the engine inlet

 

[VicS]

I've offered to help a friend winterise his 1GM10. However, when I used to winterise mine, I used to run the engine up to hot using a hose with a squeeze trigger to keep the Vetus water strainer filled up, and allowing the water from the exhaust to run out onto the concrete in the drive. (In those days I had a big enough house to store the boat in the front garden.) Once the engine was hot I knew the thermostat was open so when I poured in four litres of 50/50 antifreeze I knew it was going all the way round the block, out the exhaust and into the water trap.

Trouble is, my friend's boat is in the boatyard shed. No running water and hardly receptive to the idea of gallons of water on the floor. Did I really need to run the engine up to hot to open the thermostat? Thinking about it, the antisyphon valve would have released pressure while the thermostat was still open and the block would have drained - I think. So, there was no need to circulate antifreeze round the block as the waterways were empty. Adding antifreeze with the thermostat closed and just running the engine for enough time to suck through two coke bottles worth of 50/50 should protect the raw water system etc.

Admittedly a hot engine made the oil change easier too, but it's going to be difficult in the shed. What's the forum's view?

I think an important aspect of the whole procedure is flushing the engine with fresh water. That normally requires the engine to be fully up to working temp and the thermostat to open.

Perhaps what you and your friend should do is fully drain the whole system. Refill with fresh water then drain and refill a couple more times before finally filling with antifreeze mixture. Removing the thermostat may help this method.

 

[richardabeattie]

Open the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat, replace the housing. Then the antifreeze will start to circulate as soon as the engine is running. Don't forgett o put the thermostat back in in the Spring!l

 

[Tranona]

Never sure why one would bother to put anti freeze in it. Flush it through with fresh water and drain it by taking the bottom hose off and the impeller out. Take the anode plate off and check there is no debris in the jacket and leave the engine empty of water - then there is nothing to freeze! (not that freezing is a big risk in most parts of UK). Drain the water trap if you can.

In 20 years of owning a 1GM never once put antifreeze in it. Flushed it occasionally and left it empty if on the hard or just left it full of seawater when in the water year round.

 

[blackbeard]

Most winters, my boat is left afloat and in commission so I can go for an occasional sail when the weather is decent. Should be no risk of engine freezing; the boat is in a bath of relatively warm water (though you wouldn't think so if you fell in).

Laid up ashore; not really sure of the best plan, I would be inclined to make certain that the block is drained, which I understand is what is recommended. If the thermostat wasn't removed I wouldn't be sure that the engine contained an antifreeze mix (as opposed to pure water, which is what you REALLY don't want). I am not convinced, in any case, that an antifreeze mix offers any real advantage over a drained block.

Incidentally there is a tap on the engine which is provided specifically to drain the block, but I have never known mine to be anything but clogged up. Easier to remove the impeller, which should be done anyway if the boat is laid up.

 

[VicS]

The advantage filling with antifreeze may have over simply draining is that it is filled with a corrosion inhibiting solution as opposed to being wet and full of air

 

[vyv_cox]

Never sure why one would bother to put anti freeze in it. Flush it through with fresh water and drain it by taking the bottom hose off and the impeller out. Take the anode plate off and check there is no debris in the jacket and leave the engine empty of water - then there is nothing to freeze! (not that freezing is a big risk in most parts of UK). Drain the water trap if you can.

In 20 years of owning a 1GM never once put antifreeze in it. Flushed it occasionally and left it empty if on the hard or just left it full of seawater when in the water year round.

+1 My Bukh was nearly 20 years old when I replaced it. It had never been filled with antifreeze, just flushed through with fresh water. This obsession with filling with antifreeze is quite a recent thing. I am sure there are many engines with more than 30 years of service that have never had antifreeze in them.

 

[Nicholas123]

The advantage filling with antifreeze may have over simply draining is that it is filled with a corrosion inhibiting solution as opposed to being wet and full of air

Think you might have something there.I pumped trough anti-freeze on my BUKH DV10 last year & when I started it in the spring it did seem to pump out a lot of black mess.

 

[the_branflake]

Open the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat, replace the housing. Then the antifreeze will start to circulate as soon as the engine is running. Don't forgett o put the thermostat back in in the Spring!l

I follow this advice. I only put antifreeze in because i'm on a fresh water lake. I turn off the engine seacock open the strainer and tip it in whilst someone else starts/stops the engine. With it only being a small engine (VP2001) i can easily keep the strainer full.

 

[pete]

Years ago I bought a used Petters mini twin diesel engine to install in my boat. I had not seen it running so I connected the engine to a water and diesel supply and ran it briefly on a wooden pallet in the drive before starting to fabricate engine bearers,cut hole for prop shaft and fit a diesel tank ect.
The engine was stored in my garage after testing, for about a month and was then fitted into the boat whilst it was ashore on its trailer, a week or so later the core plug popped out and the exhaust manifold cracked due to freezing. The engine had not been run and there was obviously some water still lodged in the engine (raw water cooled) even after all this time so I would use antifreeze every time even if I was draining it. Also as far as I know it also acts as a rust inhibitor.

Pete

 

[JumbleDuck]

Never sure why one would bother to put anti freeze in it. Flush it through with fresh water and drain it by taking the bottom hose off and the impeller out. Take the anode plate off and check there is no debris in the jacket and leave the engine empty of water - then there is nothing to freeze! (not that freezing is a big risk in most parts of UK). Drain the water trap if you can.

When I changed my 1GM10 head a couple of years ago I had the head, anode plate and thermostat off, plus pump and all water hoses. The cylinder jacket still had water in it after that. What did I miss for getting the rest out?

I stuck antifreeze in today, more for corrosion protection than for anti-freezing properties.

 

[Tranona]

Taking the impeller out which is at the bottom so everything drains out. Not sure corrosion is a big issue - it is circulating hot salty water that does the damage, not residue when drained - or rather hot salty water getting into places where it should not be.

 

[aquaplane]

Open the thermostat housing, remove the thermostat, replace the housing. Then the antifreeze will start to circulate as soon as the engine is running. Don't forgett o put the thermostat back in in the Spring!l

That's what I did, except it's not spring yet.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Not only was the impeller out, the who darn pump was out, getting new shaft seals. Most odd. I visited the SS Great Britain recently. They're having to take some fairly drastic action to deal with corrosion of salt-infused (wrought) iron. May not apply to cast, but I play safe. The drain on my exhaust water trap is completely inaccessible, by the way, so I want antifreeze in there anyway.

 

[Old Troll]

Wintering 1GM10

Never sure why one would bother to put anti freeze in it. Flush it through with fresh water and drain it by taking the bottom hose off and the impeller out. Take the anode plate off and check there is no debris in the jacket and leave the engine empty of water - then there is nothing to freeze! (not that freezing is a big risk in most parts of UK). Drain the water trap if you can.

In 20 years of owning a 1GM never once put antifreeze in it. Flushed it occasionally and left it empty if on the hard or just left it full of seawater when in the water year round.

I do exactly the same. Leave all open to drain and dry out. Never had a problem over 10 winters.