Acrylic washboards

Depends on thickness (usually 9 mm) type of material (acrylic or Polycarbonate), tint and whether you want it cut and finished to shape. Yellow Pages for local signmakers and get quotes.
 
I had a pair made last year, 9mm but thickened to 12mm on the edges (so not too heavy) and shaped to suit the curves of my hatch approx £170.00 inc postage.

24' boat



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I am surprised at some of the experiences quoted so far.

I am on the Algarve (which is actually much more expensive for this sort of stuff) and I went to a signmakers on a local industrial estate. Cost was about €30.00 for a two piece jobbie in 9mm acrylic.

Took paper templates for measurements.

I finished off the job by fixing iroko battens to bottom of the upper board so that it 'slots' on top of the top of the bottom board.

Still working fine after one year.
 
chinita said:
I am on the Algarve (which is actually much more expensive for this sort of stuff) and I went to a signmakers on a local industrial estate. Cost was about €30.00 for a two piece jobbie in 9mm acrylic.
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Clear or tinted?
When I looked into it the tinted was a lot more expensive and harder to get hold of. Very few people stocked the thicker grades of tinted acrylics.
 
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Highndry said:
What's the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic for this use? Also are they easy enough to cut DIY? I have a decent jigsaw.
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Polycarbonate is supposed to be stronger but more likely to scratch. However, the thicker grades of acrylic are certainly strong enough for the job and AFAIK acrylic is usually what the boat builders use.

It's easy enough to work with DIY tools but I think that a router is almost essential to get an accurate job. If you do use a jigsaw (and I did, to make the initial rough cuts) it is well worth getting proper blades designed for cutting plastic.
 
You can get them supplied fully finished from Hadlow Marine: http://hadlo-43547-001.dsvr.co.uk/Pages/tintedwashboards.html

If making your own, a jigsaw is fine, but go slowly and gently as acrylic will build up heat in the kerf and start to melt - let it go too far and you get an unsightly pool and a clogged blade. Oh yes, leave the protective film on until your finished to prevent scratching. The edges polish up easily with a sander, especially if you let it get a bit hot so the surface melts.

Rob.
 
Why do folks have acrylic washboards, is it to let more light in and save on the varnishing? Won't you also have to route out a lip otherwise rain water will just seep in if you have two boards!
 
Zagato said:
Why do folks have acrylic washboards, is it to let more light in and save on the varnishing? Won't you also have to route out a lip otherwise rain water will just seep in if you have two boards!
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Lip- yes if in 2 parts
However the lip can be made from the same plastic as the rest of the unit
If the plastic is 12mm or more thicker then a small rebate could be routered in polycarbonate
Not sure about acrylic
I understand that acrylic could be prone to crazing when used in this situation ( as opposed to fixed in a port light) due to flexing.
However, have not had experience of that myself
 
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Rigger Mortice said:
Clear or tinted?
When I looked into it the tinted was a lot more expensive and harder to get hold of. Very few people stocked the thicker grades of tinted acrylics.
Click to expand...

Clear; which is what we wanted. We only use it on rainy days or if there is a cold wind up the chuff. The rest of the time the companionway is open.
 
chinita said:
I am surprised at some of the experiences quoted so far.

I am on the Algarve (which is actually much more expensive for this sort of stuff) and I went to a signmakers on a local industrial estate. Cost was about €30.00 for a two piece jobbie in 9mm acrylic.

Took paper templates for measurements.

I finished off the job by fixing iroko battens to bottom of the upper board so that it 'slots' on top of the top of the bottom board.

Still working fine after one year.
Click to expand...

The secret behind your price lies in the fact that they were offcuts - someone else paid for the material - so perhaps smugness is not the order of the day ;-)
 
Daydream believer said:
Lip- yes if in 2 parts
However the lip can be made from the same plastic as the rest of the unit
If the plastic is 12mm or more thicker then a small rebate could be routered in polycarbonate
Not sure about acrylic
I understand that acrylic could be prone to crazing when used in this situation ( as opposed to fixed in a port light) due to flexing.
However, have not had experience of that myself
Click to expand...

Quite like the idea on a rainy day whilst letting in more light... I can see one of my greenhouse plastic panes being pinched!!
 
If the board is for use when on board, not for security, it makes it much easier and cheaper. It's not difficult to get offcuts of thinner acrylic, which can be fitted in a wood frame - in place of ply. Even having one cut professionally, you wouldn't have to design and fit a lock. I've often thought about a wooden frame clad both sides in acrylic to give me double glazing!

Rob.
 
Highndry said:
What's the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic for this use? Also are they easy enough to cut DIY? I have a decent jigsaw.
Click to expand...

Polycarbonate has some UV protection built in but Perspex (note: trade name for acrylic) has a 10 year UV guarantee. Polycarb will also absorb material from the atmosphere as in acid rain and salt it will discolour after 3-4 years so although Polycarb is almost indestructible (think smoke shelters and trolley bays in supermarkets) it is not the best material to use in a marine environment. All the opaque looking windows and washboards will be polycarb. Polycarb is however more fire resistant than acrylic and shatterproof.

You will find that washboards and windows and hatches on board supplied from new will be acrylic.

Donald
 
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