Acrylic or polycarbonate?

Probably a basic question for Cobolt but what would you specifically recommend for polishing out light crazing and fogging on acrylic windows please and more importantly perhaps, what should be avoided.
 
mudkipper said:
Probably a basic question for Cobolt but what would you specifically recommend for polishing out light crazing and fogging on acrylic windows please and more importantly perhaps, what should be avoided.
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I recently sold some survival suits to light aircraft pilots and one pilot had a 1977 Piper aircraft.

He said the windscreen was opaque when he purchased it and was advised to purchase a new one. He used a toothbrush and some paste I cannot (sorry) remember the name of.

So perhaps place a post on a light aircraft forum for name of paste?
 
co256 said:
Whatever you choose... what adhesive/mastic stuff would you use to bed them in with?
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This is what others have recommended to me, although I have not got round to using it myself yet. I'm told it never sets and stays soft and tacky so provides an ideal seal as it allows a little movement to take place without cracking.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160603636718?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Thre are other makes and sources of butyl sealant which is what I am told is best for the job.
 
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theoldsalt said:
This is what others have recommended to me, although I have not got round to using it myself yet. I'm told it never sets and stays soft and tacky so provides an ideal seal as it allows a little movement to take place without cracking.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160603636718?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
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I have used that on gutters. It is evil.

Be prepared to throw away all your clothing afterwards as it marks everything it comes into contact with.
 
mudkipper said:
Probably a basic question for Cobolt but what would you specifically recommend for polishing out light crazing and fogging on acrylic windows please and more importantly perhaps, what should be avoided.
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Brasso works amazingly well. I've also heard of people having great success with the Meguiars kit meant for car headlights : http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/443/Lens-Correction-Kit/

The stuff we use in the factory is VuPlex, but this is more for cleaning and it leaves a protective layer. Not suitable for medium/heavy crazing.
 
kapoorplastics said:
Polycarbonate is best..!!
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Base on what evidence? Why does the boat construction industry fir acrylic? It's not that much cheaper than polycarbonate but it is the right material for the job. No one would give Lewmar a penny for polycarbonate hatches.
Donald
 
I also doubt that kapoorplastics will be back to justify that comment in the marine context. The more important question is has anyone heard from snowleopard? No apparent activity this year on the forum
 
Re: What about glass?

snowleopard said:
The doghouse window directly in front of the helm seat tends to fog as a result of micro scratches etc. I didn't use glass because of the risk of it shattering if a flying block hits it. In fact one of the acrylic ones smashed when a block failed in an over-enthusiastic gybe.

Anyone have experience of toughened/laminated glass windows?

And while we're at it, I didn't fit wipers as the mainsheet sweeps across the front of the wheelhouse. Is there a way of avoiding getting the sheet round the wiper and ripping it off?
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I have simple toughened glass windows in the Centaur. I did manage to break one, but that was with a passarelle that jammed as the tide rose. Nothing much less will do so and the rest are still perfect after >40 years.

Anti-bandit glass as mentioned is very good stuff and it can be cut and worked on site, whereas toughened glass has to be made up then heat treated. The downside is that it cannot have a toughened outer layer so may crack more easily. Unlikely though. I'd definitely try a piece in the central screen.

The only real issue with glass, especially for a cat, is weight.
 
Re: What about glass?

SAPurdie said:
I have simple toughened glass windows in the Centaur. I did manage to break one, but that was with a passarelle that jammed as the tide rose. Nothing much less will do so and the rest are still perfect after >40 years.

Anti-bandit glass as mentioned is very good stuff and it can be cut and worked on site, whereas toughened glass has to be made up then heat treated. The downside is that it cannot have a toughened outer layer so may crack more easily. Unlikely though. I'd definitely try a piece in the central screen.

The only real issue with glass, especially for a cat, is weight.
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Toughend glass is designed to break and break safely into lots of small bits, a spinnaker pole end for example may break it.

Anti Bandit glass, Laminated glass is its proper name, comes in different thicknesses the size of the window will determine the correct thickness, it is strong stuff, it will break but it remains in one piece so would prevent down flooding.

As you say weight will be the issue
 
Re: What about glass?

chrishscorp said:
Toughend glass is designed to break and break safely into lots of small bits, a spinnaker pole end for example may break it.

Anti Bandit glass, Laminated glass is its proper name, comes in different thicknesses the size of the window will determine the correct thickness, it is strong stuff, it will break but it remains in one piece so would prevent down flooding.

As you say weight will be the issue
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When I had the wheel house windows made for my yacht I had two layers of 6mm toughened glass laminated together. The toughened glass is much more resistant to breaking that the glass used in normal laminated but I the outer one breaks the inner will still be intact and the outer will also be held in place.
 
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