About to take off through the French canals

[tomdmx]

So we've moved onboard our (what now seems very little) 31 footer...still sorting out a few issues (namely a weeping nasa log skin fitting and mounting panels etc) however I wanted to ask opinions on the intended route through the French canals to the Med.

We are at the moment, parked in central London and as soon as I finish things (in 2 weeks time) we'll depart weather pending to Dover or possibly straight to Calais, then its basically following the recommended route through the excellent Aboard in France portal so Calais, Pont l'Eveque, Conflans, Paris to Chalon then south to Port St Louis or maybe further west.

We draw 1.3m so with any luck we should be ok in most parts..so my key questions are:
- mast lowering at Calais, is this a reasonably straight forward affair? I know there is a marina there so is that where I should do it? (we want to take our mast with us as I will be working on it...its wooden)
- tyre fenders...reading the guides/stories people recommend their use and state that there should be some available for people coming up from south...or should I be sourcing and fixing them in the UK (plenty of them around)
- french speaking ability - we have none and its a worry..we've got phrasebooks and will be trying to learn onboard but is starting with very minimal skills a problem?
- marinas along the way...we have a fairly limited diesel range (100l) giving us approx is that an issue since we will be motoring everywhere? Also provisions is kind of related to this...is my thinking of being able to buy a baguette, cheese and some wine every day (or just about) a bit too optimistic? Or do we need to stock up on food?

Well thats it at the moment..still at the office as they dont want to let go until the last day so fixing things whilst trying to keep positive in the office

 

[Grehan]

In brief

• Plenty of masts get taken down at Calais, but you'll probably have to do the pre- and after- work with shrouds, stays, bottle screws etc. 'Masting' Coming down the Canal du Nord you'll meet some fairly big stuff so make sure the mast is well lashed.
• Tyre fenders - as you'll see we took care not to make an obvious thing out of them and to make sure they floated etc. Didn't have any trouble, but a few reports of people being told to remove them.
• French - try at least some very basic French - it will go a long way, the French appreciate it.
• You will not go short of places to buy baguettes, cheese or wine. But take some extra fuel jerrycans and fill up wherever you can. Will often mean a walk to a supermarket. The Fluvial 2012 Guide Plaisancier has fuel details. I trust you've got some Fluviacartes or Breil navigation guides!

Bon voyage

 

[bendyone]

For the mast there is a small crane in the marina operated by Fred in the shop 0033321960757
When you tie up by the crane there is a red mark on the woodwork which you should line up the the mast.

 

[Numba]

We havent done it but i have been reading on it
Very good website is: http://eurocanals.com/

Enjoy

 

[baggypipes]

canals

we did the canals in a 30ft catamaran, no probs in at calais, important & would be apreciated if you learn a little french, after all you are in their country. Tyre fenders are frowned upon, do not attempt to tow a dinghy into the locks ALWAYS wear a lifejacket so locks keepers will instuct you to do so BEFORE they operate the locks, ( we saw this on several occasions with other boats.
See our web page for our journey. Take your time we spent a year spent three nights in the middle of Paris, stoped at H2O for the winter Had a great time.
If you want further info PM me.

 

[tomdmx]

Thank you all for the great info. To confirm we are learning French but I'm just conscious that it will be minimal at first so wandering if people speak any English (from previous experiences in large cities not many people did or wanted to) ...I'm not shy to give it a go and I hope that by the time we finish we will at least be able to reasonably communicate

Re fenders...we have two big ones (3 feet each), 2 x 2 foot each and 4 small ones...is that sufficient or should I be getting more so that I don't use tyres?

 

[Grehan]

If you make the first, polite, step by attempting some simple French many people will then reply in (basic) English. It's then difficult to keep speaking awful French (so as to practise and learn) because the conversation deteriorates into passable English !! Happened to me yesterday at the supermarket checkout, my French is not too bad, but the girl persisted in practising her English.

 

[stromboli]

South to North

We are contemplating the Canals but at 1.8m Draught are we likely to get through . We know the Canal du Midi is not possible but are the other routes viable for us.
Any info welcome

 

[Pete7]

Tom, with that draft the Canal du Midi is an option as is the canal from St Malo to Arzal which would take 5 days and cut the corner off. Just another option.

Pete

 

[Grehan]

Routes through the French canals to the Mediterranean

The 1.8m draft question comes up repeatedly and as far as I am concerned there is no definitive answer.
The 'book' answer is that you can get through using either the Champagne or Bourbonnais route. Of these, the Champagne is the more certain because it has a more certain water supply and also some commercial barge traffic to keep the route actively clear.
Lots of people with 1.8m yachts get through, albeit with a degree of difficulty. Difficulty relates to 'coming alongside' moorings and bank-sides, encountering problems coming out of locks on the 'down' side where a bar can build up outside the gate, and passing oncoming craft where you may be obliged to move over to the (shallower) side, as well as having to 'plough through' sections where leaf etc. debris and silt has built up on the canal bed. The degree to which these are serious problems or not depends on circumstances, weather (i.e rainfall to keep the reservoirs topped up) but also personal adaptability to experiencing a few snags.
Some say 'no real problem' some say 'some real problems'.
But it's a wonderful experience (IMHO of course) not to be missed - Paris, Lyon, the Rhone . . . French countryside and landscapes . . . etc etc.
And you're correct - forget the Midi ! Even 1.3m draft can be troublesome some years.

 

[scoty]

canals

It·s not worth the trouble having the mast on board, in Calais they will ring a transport company. this company will bring your mast to you when you arrive in south of france and then tell them which port, the cost to me 11 years ago for 11meter mast 250 pounds.

No one mentioned on your intended route, you need extra long lines for locks with no steps,

plus if you take a butchers meat hook, this is very good to hook onto lock steps with your rope,

Cleats in the middle of your boat are very usefull,

I and others put a sign on the bow rail, in large figures, 1.8. boats meeting you then know why you are hugging the middle line.

take your time and enjoy,,,I did

 

[Grehan]

Nice ideas, but . .

Having a "1.8m SVP" sign will not help you if you meet a peniche nor any other wide-ish boat on a narrow section, nor is it actually very readable until fairly close-to, nor do lots of people (maybe coming up from the Med) have a clue what it means - and some people (nationalities, to be unfair) ignore it anyway.
Carrying a mast is a little awkward and it's a little vulnerable and if you want to spend a few hundred euros transporting it separately then all well and good, but we very soon (after the first couple of locks) got used to our 15m 'lance'.
Yes, definitely 'take your time'

 

[anniebray]

I am currently returning from the Med (Port Louis to Le Havre) . If you plan to overnight in Conflans I recommend the "Halte de Plaisance d'Andresy" where I stayed last night ! It's 2km downstream from the Oise on the Seine RH branch. It consists of a 12m pontoon with water & electricity(no charge), Boulangerie at 50m, street market Wed & Sat. BTW make sure you are prepared with connecting adaptors. The 16A round pin which you probably have is also most common in france but occasionally you will find a 32A socket also the French domestic socket.
My boat draws 1.3m (twin keel) which often caused problems going alongside but I always managed either with my scaffold plank or dinghy. My route also took me thro Chalon but make sure that Canal du Centre is still open for you.

 

[Grehan]

Thanks anniebray.
The 'Centre' looks to be ok for water this season - it isn't every year.

 

[mono]

Unstepping the mast at Calais can be a shock if you're used to the boatyard doing everything - unless things have changed since we did it 9 years ago. My wife and I did absolutely everything - the crane operator merely lowered the hook. We disconnected the rigging, tied a rope around the mast, attached it to the hook, manhandled the mast as it was lifted clear and then guided it into the supports at either end of the boat as the crane operator lowered it. We found the entire procedure quite stressful as our mast is quite heavy and was difficult to manhandle from a vertical to horizontal state. Had we realised what it entailed, we would have enlisted some help beforehand.

 

[Grehan]

Calais

Yes, that's more or less what we found and why there's a note to that effect on most of my Channel/Med un/re-stepping port pages. Before we left the UK I specifically went down to Northshore (we had a Southerly) to look at how they did it in their yard. I had forgotten most of that by the time we got to Honfleur, where the chaps were great but still expected me to do most of the prep etc. (although not as much as your experience). It's not something that many skippers will have done very often.
I'm fairly sure that the guys at Rouen are a lot more 'helpful' than that, but even they're not riggers (or de-riggers).

 

[Saint Louis]

We operate a Hotel Barge on the Canal de Garonne (Western half of the so-called "Canal du Midi").
If anyone tells you you can take the Canal du Midi route - ignore them, you can't! You will end up going round Gibralter, or going home! We draw 1.4 metres and are VERY close to the bottom at times, and I have known east-going sailing boats drawing less than 1.5 being forced to turn round before they get to Agen.
Go in for overkill as far as fenders are concerned, the treatment your boat will receive in some locks can be very rough. You will find novice hire boaters who don't understand locks, and ignorant private owners who cannot even be bothered to tie up! Tyres are fine, as long as you get them to float and wrap them in something to prevent tyre-marks all down your boat.
Do carry plenty of diesel in cans. For diesel, wine and other heavy shopping a folding two wheeled trolley is a good idea, or your arms will become longer!
Do make sure you understand the rules as far as priority is concerned - barges over 15 metres have priority whether going up or down (for very good reason) and some hotel barges / passenger boats have priority in the locks (indicated by a red triangular flag in the bows)
Good luck - enjoy!

 

[tomdmx]

Well the big day is arriving very quickly and surprisingly we're actually making headway in getting things sorted so we expect to set sail from London next Monday and soon after arrive in France (we will probably stop in Dover to cover off last of the formalities)...
As it happens I have had a first hand experience in getting a mast stepped...in the marina where I am, the crane operator simply operated the crane...I had to do everything else so at least I know what I'm in for...and we will carry our mast with us as we're not sure where we will end up...good news is that since we have a 5 foot bowsprit, our mast actually matches our overall length (the bowsprit is an addition after original build)
So still got lots of things to sort out like the electronics sorted out (well connected up again etc) but I do love being on the water (even though its a marina) and after only a week on the boat we are experiencing the slight sway already

 

[tomdmx]

My boat draws 1.3m (twin keel) which often caused problems going alongside but I always managed either with my scaffold plank or dinghy. My route also took me thro Chalon but make sure that Canal du Centre is still open for you.

thank you Anniebray, didint think about the sockets so will stock up in Calais...re parking did you find difficulty because you are a bilge keel or with the draft?

 

[anniebray]

thank you Anniebray, didint think about the sockets so will stock up in Calais...re parking did you find difficulty because you are a bilge keel or with the draft?

The draft problem is accentuated when you have bilge keels for obvious reasons. I was always cautious & went in bows first to avoid damage to rudder/prop & also get my crew ashore. If I couldn't get alongside then I used my plank + whisker pole as handrail. Just once that didn't work so I used my inflatable which is easily launched from Weaver Davits.

BTW Be prepared for erroneos/out of date information from your pilot guide particularly about fuelling. My tank is 65l plus I have 3x 20l jerry cans which I found to be just right. On the Canal du Centre route I managed only 1 fill at Chalon from a pump otherwise twice at supermarkets using the cans. Keep your property locked...my new Dahon folder was stolen at Sancerre from right beside the boat.