aaghh .. how do I remove this cockpit drain?

[lukecsmith]

Tedious stuff this .. but its also the sort of thing that can drive you insane. Im trying to remove the cockpit drains from my boat and renew the whole system, seacocks etc. Its all fine except - I cant remove the drains themselves. I can turn the nut underneath, but that turns the whole thing, plug and all. Ive tried many different ways of getting purchase on the plug to stop it turning, attaching nuts n bolts to the plug then gripping them (you can see the remains of that in the picture), sticking bullnose pliers into the plug and gripping them (one bust set of pliers) etc.

Because the nut is so well attached to the thread, it takes strong leverage downstairs to turn the thing - and getting the same levarage on the plug is proving impossible. Now what? Angle grinder to the whole thing??! (not really an option down below, next to engine, fuel tank etc.).

Any ideas most definitely welcome. Thanks.

ps. I know, it needs a clean. Im going to replace it all first ..

 

[sarabande]

looks as if the application of judicious localised heating is needed to break the grip of any old sealant. Small jet burner ?

The big nut is best held with a basin pliers for good leverage.

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;j...P2wlLtv699!-972310741?fh_search=waste+spanner

A solid block of wood in the corner, with some long nails driven through it down past the grid will hold the drain component.

 

[saltylegs]

hacksaw or angle grinder through the nut from bottom to top close to the threads and you can lever of the nut with a screwdriver
done it loads of times

 

[sailorman]

a sharp cold chisel & lump hammer used @ a tangent to the nut

 

[V1701]

Could you use a hacksaw blade to remove the bulk of the inside of the hole, then jam something down there (piece of wood maybe?). Whatever you jam down there, attach some mole grips to it so that when you start unscrewing it it stops the whole thing from turning?

 

[cavitation]

Have you tried a jig saw

I know it is tight but you might just get a small jigsaw in and saw into the hex nut from above. Alternatively break away the area where the holes are and use a "pad saw" with a hacksaw blade to cut towards the nut. Other option would be one of these little miniature grinders such as a Dremel with a tungsten carbide edge cutter.

Been thinking of starting a new project boat but your posting is giving me second thoughts

 

[BabaYaga]

In a similar situation with a skin fitting I have drilled two 10 or 12 mm holes in line right through the threaded stub and then used a long steel rod to stop the thing from rotating while turning the nut with a pipe wrench.

 

[lukecsmith]

loads of great ideas there, big thanks for all suggestions, much appreciated. im going to return loaded with weaponry..

 

[philip_stevens]

I had to do this very job a couple of years ago. The method I had to use was to use two hole-cutters - one inside the other. The smaller one to be able to go snugly inside the plug hole, and the outside one to be a able to cut through the top flange - to be the same size as the outside of the threaded pipe. Once the top flange was cut, the remainder just dropped out inside.

I also had to recess the new drain flange to the same level as the floor it was fitted into. I did this in a similar way to above, but had the outside hole-cutter the same size as the flange diameter. I just drilled enough to allow it to be recessed. The surface between the hole and the outside cut was removed with a sharp chisel, and the new drain flange was set in sealant, and secured with the nut from the inside.

 

[cimo]

I use a cordless dremel. pricy, but you'll use it over and over for cutting in such tight places.

 

[SAMYL]

KISS - keep it simple st***d!

Drill a hole or several holes in a line across the flats of the nut, turn it 180 deg. and do the same again. A sharp tap with a cold chisel across the hole(s)will split the nut off - job done.

It will only be brass or bronze so will split v. easily.

 

[lukecsmith]

KISS - keep it simple st***d!

Drill a hole or several holes in a line across the flats of the nut, turn it 180 deg. and do the same again. A sharp tap with a cold chisel across the hole(s)will split the nut off - job done.

It will only be brass or bronze so will split v. easily.

Now that makes total sense. Now you say it, it seems totally obvious. And there I was, with a drill and drill bits to hand, and I never thought of it.

Thanks again.

 

[LittleSister]

Another idea

Or another idea:

Drill a hole (about 8mm, say) right through both sides of the tube below the nut and insert a rod (tommy bar, is it called, as used in a box spanner?) to hold it against the turning of the nutl. You can squeeze the rod against the spanner or whatever you're using to grip the nut, so none of the effort is wasted.

 

[Topcat47]

An alternative to the dremel and quite useful would be the Bosche 180e with the mixed metal cutter. Most DIY places have them at a discount. The Frein is a better tool but on average twice the price.

 

[nauticalnomad]

I had to do this very job a couple of years ago. The method I had to use was to use two hole-cutters - one inside the other. The smaller one to be able to go snugly inside the plug hole, and the outside one to be a able to cut through the top flange - to be the same size as the outside of the threaded pipe. Once the top flange was cut, the remainder just dropped out inside.

I also had to recess the new drain flange to the same level as the floor it was fitted into. I did this in a similar way to above, but had the outside hole-cutter the same size as the flange diameter. I just drilled enough to allow it to be recessed. The surface between the hole and the outside cut was removed with a sharp chisel, and the new drain flange was set in sealant, and secured with the nut from the inside.

I like that idea, I used to be a plumber and have had to cut off the waste outlet to old sinks and baths its the same, but the 2 hole saws sounds ideal.
Id have just used a hacksaw and cut down the backing nut on the underside, its slow and tedious but it will get it done

 

[Monique]

I use a cordless dremel. pricy, but you'll use it over and over for cutting in such tight places.

Yep... that is the answer

GL

 

[lukecsmith]

I had to do this very job a couple of years ago. The method I had to use was to use two hole-cutters - one inside the other. The smaller one to be able to go snugly inside the plug hole, and the outside one to be a able to cut through the top flange - to be the same size as the outside of the threaded pipe. Once the top flange was cut, the remainder just dropped out inside.

I also had to recess the new drain flange to the same level as the floor it was fitted into. I did this in a similar way to above, but had the outside hole-cutter the same size as the flange diameter. I just drilled enough to allow it to be recessed. The surface between the hole and the outside cut was removed with a sharp chisel, and the new drain flange was set in sealant, and secured with the nut from the inside.

Thanks Philip. I had to read that a couple of times to get what you mean. I think I do now. Could you please show me the kind of hole cutter you are referring to? A link to a DIY website or something? Using a hole cutter is not something Ive done before, so it would be good to increase my tool armoury.

 

[philip_stevens]

Thanks Philip. I had to read that a couple of times to get what you mean. I think I do now. Could you please show me the kind of hole cutter you are referring to? A link to a DIY website or something? Using a hole cutter is not something Ive done before, so it would be good to increase my tool armoury.

This is the sort (of type) I use for electrical installation of ceiling spot lights.

If a new new fitting is bigger than the old, I just screw a bigger sized saw on first, and the smaller original hole sized saw on after, then lock both with the slide-up pins.

I get my saws and mandrel from electrical wholesalers, though the same is available from plumbers merchants.

 

[MaranaF]

KISS - keep it simple st***d!

Drill a hole or several holes in a line across the flats of the nut, turn it 180 deg. and do the same again. A sharp tap with a cold chisel across the hole(s)will split the nut off - job done.

It will only be brass or bronze so will split v. easily.

Bump.... This is my method!