G
Guest
Guest
As I see it from model days when modellers looked at various cell types ....
NiCD had highest possible discharge rate ability
NiMH came close behind
LiIon well behind
Dry Cells way way down the list.
As to no-load voltage - it's a non-starter surely - as a cell is to work - not sit and do nothing. If when working it's actual voltage drops to less than 1.2V - then surely in my book - that is the real voltage. OK when checking cells on a meter - if you get less than 1.3V on a dry cell - its time to ditch it - as its close to finished. If you get 0.1V or more on a rechargeable as long as its not reverse polarity - it is most likely recoverable. 0.9V and it's a winner ready to charge.
Battery guy I used for a long time when modelling - he worked in Mallory - gave me a trick - which is violent but works 99% of the time. A NiCD goes down and appears dead. Take a full charged identical cell and connect it across to short-charge the dud one momentarily .... that is basically have a couple of leads connected to good cell to dab on the dud cells terminals maybe 2 or 3 times ... if they spark !! you've likely zapped the cell ready to recharge .... The cell will be less capacity than original and will likely fail after a shortish time ... but as long as you put straight to charge without delay - you may have a cell for non-essential work.
Now as it was explained to me in "simple layman" terms ... often a cell when slow discharged or left at partial discharge fails due to crystal formation in the bound medium. Full charged cell shorting across the dud cell causes break-up of the crystaline structure .....
Now before anyone jumps on me - I'm only passing on something that was said to me years ago by someone I had greatest respect for and his career / business was Battery's ...
NiCD had highest possible discharge rate ability
NiMH came close behind
LiIon well behind
Dry Cells way way down the list.
As to no-load voltage - it's a non-starter surely - as a cell is to work - not sit and do nothing. If when working it's actual voltage drops to less than 1.2V - then surely in my book - that is the real voltage. OK when checking cells on a meter - if you get less than 1.3V on a dry cell - its time to ditch it - as its close to finished. If you get 0.1V or more on a rechargeable as long as its not reverse polarity - it is most likely recoverable. 0.9V and it's a winner ready to charge.
Battery guy I used for a long time when modelling - he worked in Mallory - gave me a trick - which is violent but works 99% of the time. A NiCD goes down and appears dead. Take a full charged identical cell and connect it across to short-charge the dud one momentarily .... that is basically have a couple of leads connected to good cell to dab on the dud cells terminals maybe 2 or 3 times ... if they spark !! you've likely zapped the cell ready to recharge .... The cell will be less capacity than original and will likely fail after a shortish time ... but as long as you put straight to charge without delay - you may have a cell for non-essential work.
Now as it was explained to me in "simple layman" terms ... often a cell when slow discharged or left at partial discharge fails due to crystal formation in the bound medium. Full charged cell shorting across the dud cell causes break-up of the crystaline structure .....
Now before anyone jumps on me - I'm only passing on something that was said to me years ago by someone I had greatest respect for and his career / business was Battery's ...