A quiet life in the Gulf of Kekova???

[sequena1]

We're seriously thinking of going into a charter purchase scheme in SW Turkey (Gulf of Kekova etc). One of the aims ,of course is to spend time (increasing as the years go by) on our boat but despite reassurances from the company, we are are somewhat apprehensive that the quiet anchorages of the brochures will be constantly interrupted by garish gulets blaring out the latest Turkish hits. Is this a real worry or are there plenty of peaceful spots to escape into?

 

[HenryB]

Hi,
We spent 2 years based in southern Turkey and, from our experiences, your concerns are founded. Much of the coast is unsuitable for anchoring, so, given the number of yachts, gulets and day boats, the relatively few good anchorages get well used.
Typically, if you stay in one place for more than a day you will find that you could be alone at 09.00, get joined by one or more gulets at 12.00 and some day boats during the afternoon. By late afternoon the day boats will return to base and the gulets will move on to their overnight spot so you get an hour or so alone. By 18.00 you get joined by some overnight gulets, so you will have company until they leave early next morning.
Most gulets and day boats get booked by mature people who want to enjoy quiet anchorages. You will soon recognise the few with the noisier guests and learn where they visit. Overall, we didn't find it a problem although we do appreciate the ease of finding quiet anchorages now that we are back in Greece.

 

[MedMan]

My experience is similar to HenryB's. The anchorage behind Kale Koy is the best in Turkey as it is a huge area with 2m to 8m depths. If you tuck up into the shallower water you will be half a mile away from the nearest Gulet. That said, that specific anchorage is highly unusual - the majority are deep and you have to anchor in 15m to 25m and tie back to the shore.

Gulets are a problem - there is no doubt about that. We had feared lots of noise but, to be honest, that has not really been a problem. The big concern is their un-seamanlike behaviour. They tend to have their spot where they tie up for the night and that is where they go - never mind if you are already moored there. You can be properly and peacably moored in a delightful spot and then find a huge Gulet come and moor right on top of you. They tend to carry about 200m of 12mm chain which they range right across the anchorage never mind whose chain they may be crossing. They are a pain!!!!

So am I rushing to leave Turkey to escape the bad-mannered Gulets? No! We shall stay at least one more year, maybe two. Despite the Gulets, the Mediterranean coast of Turkey is arguably the most beautiful cruising area in the Med and is well worth exploring. But would I tie myself into a boat that was based here year after year? I have to say No - I'd rather be in Croatia.

 

[MASH]

My (limited) crusing around the Marmaris area - 30 -40 Km each side so far has seen mixed results in this matter.

I have to say that although Gulets can be very painful in daytime few of them overnight except in the larger anchorages, and those that do are usually, tho not always, reasonably quiet. Yes in daytime the tripper boats in particular are a noisy distraction but a lot of that is kids squealing with joy and miserable b@stard as I am it is hard to object too much to that.

Most anchorages are left peaceful after 1600 or so until the bloody Germans or Austrians(worse) arrive. Well, I'm sure there are some bloody British too, but I've yet to find them. Certainly the odd gulet runs utterly unsilenced single pot diesel gennys until midnight but they are faitly uncommon. You'll eye up an anchorage at 1500 or so and figure the space left when the Gulet leaves and then park 200m away from the nearest enticing looking spot on your own and guess what? Within 30 mins of sundown, just as you're beginning to relax, some damn great 55'charter boat full of 10 yelling krauts starts 20 minutes of inept and noisy maneuvering and ends up plunked 10 m away from you. Oh sh!t! 10 mins later another one does the same thing on the other side and you're the meat in the sandwich, sharing their yelled conversations and foul music.

Ive even up-anchored and been followed to the other side of the anchorage at dusk by two of these thugs in an attenpt to shake them off so strong is their herding instinct. As soon as they were safely anchored again I hauled up the kedge and with suitable sheep noises went back to spot one. I think they got the point.

No, Gulets are not too much problem, it is the charter boats that give the most grief.

My big gripe about Gulets is why, if we the visitors are so fiercely persued over holding tanks and pumping out is the surface of your perfect lagoon covered in a grey frothy scum within minutes of a Gulet arriving? One rule for us methinks...

 

[sequena1]

Many thanks for your views. Not really what we wanted to hear, but valuable food for thought nevertheless. A couple of subsidiary questions if we may...Do the gulets avoid those little bays with the so-called "rustic" restaurants and are there villages that have harbours where you can moor?..(a bit like the Ionian I suppose). Thanks in advance!

 

[MedMan]

[ QUOTE ]
Do the gulets avoid those little bays with the so-called "rustic" restaurants and are there villages that have harbours where you can moor?..(a bit like the Ionian I suppose).

[/ QUOTE ]

There are quite a lot of bays with "rustic restaurants" that provide free moorings providing you eat at their restaurant. The Gulets do tend to keep away from them but, of course, the restaurants can be noisy! They are a very mixed blessing as in very many bays they have destroyed the best spots to anchor by laying moorings all over them. The other problem is that they never have menus and they never publish prices. Our trick now is to decide what we are prepared to pay, speak to the boatman before going ashore and say: " we can afford x Lire - what can you give us for that. The answer is usually 'Chicken', but it avoids getting landed with a bill for three times the amount!

There are some large villages/small towns with harbours or quays but not really very many. The majority of spots to stay are anchorages in bays or marinas.

 

[eastmed]

hi
as i sailed in the area since 1985 it is quite crowded during july /august.
in 2004 i spent 2 weeks in september from kemer to kas including 5 nights in kekova.
so far it is the best time to visit that area ,less yachts and gulets,cooler than steamy august and warm enough to enjoy swiming.
all the kekova area is nice : for quiet nights best in gokaya liman (east),
busy but a must is the anchorage at kale koy ( best for short day visit good for breakfast and morning visit up the casttle) in ushagiz you find some good restaurants for dinner and social time (hasan is good) near by more quiet anchorages.
go for it !!

 

[moana]

Hello
W`ve got a cat in Gocek,managed for us by Portway Turkey. It`s not a charter purchase scheme but we are purchasing through charter, We own the boat and they manage it. We are in our second year and both last year and already this we sold twenty weeks out of a possible twenty four.two of the 4 spare weeks were/are being used by us.
We went in late October last year and it was OK but the water was a little cool for my (wimpish) taste.
This year we are going in mid Oct.
Certainly a lot quiter than August and everywhere is still open as the tourist season runs until end of Oct. This is determined by the fact that charter flights into Dalaman stop then.
There are fewer Gulets but their machismo can be a problem, Of course,if you have a Cat, in places like Fetihiye you can anchor in 2.5 metres and not be bothered by them.
Weather very civilised, no wind till 1000 so you might as well lie in.
We like it and will be returning for2 more years before departing for pastures new.
a.g.

 

[MASH]

I hope we've not been too negative in some of our remarks here. The area is stunningly beautiful and as moana and others have said if you aim for either end of season will be much quieter. Even so problems are few, its just they are so annoying when they (rarely) do happen. If you make an effort to stay away from the obviously popular places (those talked up by rod heikel for instance) and look for less obvious anchorages you'll do better. It is usually so calm I have few qualms over mooring my 1.6m draft boat in 2.5 m of water with a kedge or line ashore to hold her. Few others bother you in that shallow water. Else add a rode to your chain and anchor in 30 - 40m. no one else does that either. Tie a loose becket of old rope around your chosen rock or tree and lead the shore line slip fashion back to the boat for peace of mind in case you need to scat quickly. Look for single-boat sized spots and make sure you plonk yourself in the middle of it. Even the Gulets cant hassle you there.

You'll love it!

 

[sequena1]

Many thanks to you all for your views. It's great to tap into all this experience!! We're going to see for ourselves this September with an exploratory charter with our prospective management company. If anyone has any more to add though, we'd love to hear from you.