A long cruise - Spain - France - Corsica - loads of photos

Hurricane

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Firstly, a message to YBW forums.
It would be really helpful if you could remove or increase the limit of photos from 20.
It is a bit of a PIA to post reports like this with such a small limit – maybe 50????


This is a massive post – I hope you enjoy sharing some of the fantastic places that we visited over the last few weeks.

I have wanted to do a cruise to the South of France for a while but been put off by the thought of busy marinas and anchorages during the summer. So, at LIBS when Jimmy_the_Builder suggested that we all meet in Antibes for Easter, I jumped at the idea. It would be a struggle to get Jennywren ready in time but it could be “doable” especially if the weather gods were on our side to get there. Jimmy started an email circular and JFM provided all the local knowledge of the French Riviera. We thought it would also be fun to have other forum friends along so I invited Warlock – a Sunseeker Predator – the owner/skipper frequents these forums – mainly as a lurker but has contributed a few posts in the past.
There was one other attraction – Match was due to arrive in Antibes around this time.

So, a few months later, Warlock and Jennywren were alongside each other in the boatyard at Sant Carles to have their annual maintenance/antifoul etc.

This chartlet shows the whole eventual cruise as recorded on Jennywren’s systems.
I’ve labelled areas of the chartlet “A to H” – “A” is our home berth at Sant Carles – mid way between Barcelona and Valencia.

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SWMBO and I had to pop back to the UK once Jennywren had been relaunched but Warlock couldn’t wait and set off earlier than originally planned. They have friends at Leucate close to the French/Spanish border so off they went to visit and wait for good weather to cross the infamous Golfe du Lion.

We returned to Sant Carles provisioned up and set off immediately. Our first destination – a refuel stop at Palamos – See “B”.

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The weather for the Golfe Du Lion was going to be good for the next 24 hours so we had a quick meal in the town and set off at 23:00 for a slow overnight “pootle” across the bay. I love night passages but this one wasn’t the best – the moon was so bright that you could almost see like daytime. I prefer no moon, no clouds and no light pollution so that you can get the full effect of the stars. In my experience, you have to get a good 45 miles away from land to avoid light pollution but its worth it if you get the conditions right. Still, a full moon and no clouds made a great crossing for us. We agreed a simple overnight watch system and it was comfortable enough for us to sleep in all the cabins and even have a full English breakfast in the morning – under way.

I caught a few hours sleep in the morning but was awakened by my daughter saying that a man was calling us on the radio. We transmit AIS and it seems that the French coastguard is very keen to challenge any boats with AIS. During the 3 weeks that we were away, we “put up” with this for a couple of days and then went “covert” by switching the AIS transmitter off.

A few hours earlier, the sea had been very flat and we were joined by dolphins swimming under the bow.



Strange things happen at sea though – just 50 miles north of us, Warlock was battling through some very rough stuff – even thinking of turning back – that rough. Anyway you can see from the above video how calm it was for us.

So, now we had arrived at “C”
And met up with Warlock

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We went straight for the islands of Porquerolles and set anchor at “C1”

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This is otherwise known from a previous YBW forum thread as “Red Dot Bay” – thanks JFM for pointing out this fabulous anchorage. The following photos tell the story without the need for words.

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Dinner “on the hook” just can’t get better

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And the following misty morning.

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Then we headed off to the mainland side at “C2”

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After “checking out” some really pretty bays, we finally got drawn in to drop our anchors and relax. We’d done the big job of crossing the Golfe so why not take our time on the rest of the trip. We still had two more days anyway before we were due in at JFM’s home in Antibes.

We officially renamed this new place as “Gold Dot Bay” – even better than the Porquerolles “Red Dot Bay”!!!
Here are some pics – decide for yourselves.

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The next morning met with a freshening wind so we decided on a marina berth for the night – so which one? Whilst we are cruising, Warlock and Jennywren spend a lot of time chatting on the VHF so it was agreed to set off for Sant Tropez. We were here – so why not.

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You can see from the track that whilst Warlock went in search of fuel, I had a look in the little bay to the east of Sant Tropez itself to see if another night on the hook might be possible. In fact, the wind was blowing hard and it looked a bit lumpy so we rejoined Warlock who by now was in Coglin - Port Grimaud. After berthing, we took a taxi to Sant Tropez for dinner.

The morning forecast showed gradually increasing in winds. It would be best to be “tucked up” in a marina for the next evening so we set off for Antibes where we were previously booked anyway.

En route we managed a little detour across Cannes Bay between the outlying islands.

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Then on to Antibes

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And Mole Sud

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Berthed right opposite a well known forum vessel.

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The next couple of days was a bit windy so we explored Antibes on foot. However, the strong winds did give JFM a chance to try out his stabilisers and we were kindly invited along. What a difference they make – we were comfortably running in a strong beam sea that I would definitely not like to be in with JW. Match ran eerily smooth with spray breaking over her flybridge. What an experience.

Two days later, the situation had completely changed so now (being led by JFM in Match) we set off to explore the French Riviera. Match went ahead to Villefranche.

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And then the Spanish boats arrived.

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Anchored and immediately rafted together – just as they always do.

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There were several forum posters on the three boats and I know that stunning photos were taken – maybe they will add them to this thread. I have so many other pics for this post that I will move on with our story.

Villefranche was fantastic – JFM recommended a fab restaurant so Warlock and Jennywren’s crew headed ashore whilst JFM entertained his guests on board. We all stayed on anchor and the following day, we headed off. On leaving the bay, we were approached by the local Douane – and a “paperwork check”.

Match gets the treatment

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And then Jennywren

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All paperwork in order – off we went – too much for some – anyone you know?

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Follow me said JFM – I’ll take you somewhere special.

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Monaco

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The off again to find another anchorage. And with several hi-res cameras on board, lots of running shots were taken.

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JFM took us to a different side of Cap Ferrat – conditions were not comfortable for an overnight stop but it seems that some on board Match just couldn’t cope with all this rushing around!!!

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Later that night we were at anchor between the island of Iles de Lerins – apparently a favourite SoF spot.

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It was here that reaffirmed my procedure for anchoring overnight. However calm the sea is ALWAYS prepare the boat ready to go to sea BEFORE YOU GO TO BED. This means put the dinghy away and wash up all the dinner things and tidy up etc. The sea was as flat as a millpond when we went to bed and there was no forecast of bad weather. It came from nowhere at about 4:00 in the morning – 20 knots and a rolling sea so back to Antibes we went arriving just before 05:00.

Corsica was to be our next target and there was a good weather window to cross - see “F” on my first chartlet.
Warlock set off from Antibes early whilst we waited for a crew change. We were joined by djefabs for the rest of the cruise. Derek knows JW well and has “clocked up” literally thousands of miles aboard with me. After leaving Nice Airport, he telephoned me from the taxi asking for directions. I said “find Mole Sud and look for the small boat – that’s us!!”.

So, it was a quick hello to JFM and off we went to Corsica leaving Match to follow on.

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We arrived in Calvi (Corsica) to a cloudless warm evening. Some of JW’s crew needed to have a “water sports fix” so we anchored up and out came the inflatable.

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And then Match arrived

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So we followed her into the port.

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I wasn’t expecting Calvi to be so nice. It is easily up there amongst my most favourite of ports.

Some shots of Match and Jennywren in the morning sunlight.

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And later we climbed the castle/old town whilst some stayed aboard JW to watch that Royal Wedding thing. The old town was the better option for me though and here are a few pics of the harbour from the castle.

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We said our goodbyes to Match and crew as they headed off to Bonifacio.

Then it was off to explore the west coast of Corsica ourselves – actually some were still glued to the wedding on JW’s TV but they managed to surface though just as Warlock was doing the Gargalu Passage – I’m afraid that we “chickened out” – my attitude was that we will live to fight another day – I’d hate to spoil a perfectly good cruise for the sake of a little challenge but after Warlock had gone through, the comment was that it is really quite easy.

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Evidence that Warlock did the Gargalu Passage

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Then it was off to find another anchorage for the night.

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But somebody was already here – the scenery was just too good to miss.

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Finally, whilst playing with the dinghies, Match slipped her anchorage and waved a final goodbye. My thanks to JFM for showing us some of the most beautiful places in the world. That was the last we saw of them.

Goodbye Match and have a wonderful cruising life.

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Warlock and Jennywren then settled for the night – again (kind of) rafted together as they do so often. Fore and aft moored to buoys this time so we were able to stay together all night.

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And then another magical dinner of BBQ’d fresh fish.

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With the most beautiful backdrop you can imagine

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Ajaccio was a bit of a disappointment – the town was nice but the two marinas were badly organised and we were lead to a berth suitable for a boat half our size. It was a challenge to get safely berthed without putting too much strain on the pontoon fingers. Remember we “weigh in” at 42 tons.

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There was quite a lot of wind about so I wasn’t happy until all the lines were in the right place.

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Ajaccio was an important stop for us. There is one Easyjet flight per week from Gatwick so this was a crew change stop for us as well.

New crews installed and off we went to see if we could manage another overnight anchorage before Bonifacio.

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JFM says that Bonifacio is amongst the 10 top places to visit in the world. Well, Jennywren has been to Dartmouth and Valletta which are also on his list so Bonifacio had to be done as well. I believe Sidney Harbour is also on the list but my fuel budget won’t stretch that far!!!

Anyway here is Bonifacio

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JFM – we were in your berth – I believe.
 
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On JFM’s post a few days ago, he posted some fantastic photos of Lavezzi. I wish the weather had been the same for us. We had strong westerly winds and managed to stop for lunch on the east side but it was really too much for any length of stay and we didn’t go ashore.

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Instead, we headed off to the south east coast of Corsica for some shelter. Almost immediately, Warlock came on the radio. He had checked his pilot and there was a little private marina on the nearby Ile Cavallo. Apparently they have visitor berths. It was quite a challenge getting a 20m powerboat in there especially with a 20/25 knot wind but we soon tied up. What a weird place – it was like the Mary Celeste. We tried to find someone to pay but the place was empty and we didn’t want to go back out into the strong winds so we stayed for the night. Apart from being weird, it was also like paradise – here are some pics from the island.

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Finally, all good things come to an end so it was back home to Spain for Jennywren. We had two days left to get her home and there was just enough of a weather window to do it. So we were up early on the Thursday morning with the aim of reaching Mahon in Menorca for dinner. The range was (in theory) there but we decided on 3 hours of pootling during the cruise to be sure finally arriving on the fuel berth just before it closed.

Mahon is a sad place out of season these days. We were last there a couple of years ago and since then the Spanish authorities have clamped down on their matriculation rules so its fast becoming a ghost town. The main quay had about half a dozen boats stern berthed and as for the new harbour/marina – see for yourself in this pic:-

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So leaving Mahon it was just another 180 miles to our home port at Sant Carles and a well earned clean. Thanks Derek (djefabs) – who gave JW a really good wash down.

So, 1081 miles round trip.
Jennywren has never let us down and this trip was no exception – she didn’t miss a beat.
I think we will spend the rest of the summer relaxing in our lagoon in Spain – or maybe…….. who knows?

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Mike, SWMBO and Jennywren
(Photographs by Warlock’s SWMBO, Jimmy_the_Builders SWMBO and me)
 
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Hurricane,
wonderful post, wonderful boats, wonderful pictures...just one problem, I've turned that nasty shade of green again... Serious thanks for your post, must have been a load of work but really fascinating to see.... what a playground! :)
 
beautifull report Mike,
the addition of the maps make the trip much more "visible",
thanks very much for taking time to make this,
will save this post for future use.
You didn't forget to add some info about the dinner's, lunch and breackfast's,
that's a good attitude :), I like that ;)

and now again reading your post from the beginning one more time.
 
Mike
Thanks for such a great account. Fantastic pictures. I'll try to post a few more later but it would be great if Jimmy le Constructeur could post some as H got some stunning shots in Lavezzi

I agree with you about the irritating 20 pics rule too. IPC ought to change that

Interesting to hear your account of Cavallo island. I went there in summer 2009, august, and paid 350/night in the Sq58. It took lots of contacts (a famous guy in corsica) even to get a berth. Wierd place. Has a landing strip for private jets and was full of glitterati. Interesting to hear it is open out of season, for free!

I loved your first pic of Bonifacio's cliffs. Stunning. And yes you were in the same berth as us! Definitely on the generally accepted list of the 10 top harbours to take your boat into in your boating career (in no particular order: Dartmouth, Sydney, Golden Gate San Fran, Valletta, Istanbul, Bonifacio, Mahon, Monaco, can't remember the others but we did a thread >1 yr ago on this)

Mahon looked 25% full. What a great shame, and pretty awful for all those folks who built businesses and livelihooods based on boats just to see it all disappear. Shameful of Spain to treat its own citizens so badly. I plan to visit this summer

Anyway, it was great to cruise with JW and Warlock (and their crews!) in 1000nm cruising mode and visit so many nice places in a week. We have zillions more pictures so I'll post a few more later
 
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Wonderful pictures (as in JFM's earlier post). Fabulous scenery and beautiful boats everywhere. Photographing boating man's paradise, I reckon :)

Many thanks for posting.
 
Mike - great post, and every bit as good as I hoped from our conversation last night. Big contrast to our trip to Dartside Quay - boat, places, and weather!
 
I spent a long time gazing at those photos. They bring back so many memories, never to be repeated. I did the Gargalu passage three or four times - no problem. That anchorage after Gargalu looks like Girolata - lovely sheltered spot, if a bit shallow at the end (and a nice restaurant on the hillside). Shame you couldn't go a bit further round Corsica to Porto Vecchio and down the north-east coast of Sardinia. Some more really beautiful places there.

Thanks for posting that. A lot of work, but it gave me a lot of pleasure.

John
 
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