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Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Yeah thick ones. Its not stuff that you want to get on to your skin as I found out last year during a bit of domestic DIY!
A highly technical problem
- Thread starter MapisM
- Start date
jfm
Well-Known Member
But that's the whole point. You want a substance that doesn't attack plastic but does attack organic matter
The thickness of the plastic bottles is a red herring point so far as bleach attacking plastic is concerned. They're not time bombs.
Nick_H
Well-Known Member
IIRC, bleach will degrade nylon quite quickly, and acetal over time, and I think there's a good chance that one or the other of these is used in the fittings of marine toilets, though I don't know that for sure. I'd want to check before routinely flushing bleach through the heads.
wakeup
Well-Known Member
Still have the image of Nick and JTB massaging pipes together burnt onto my retina of my minds eye.
I'll have to bleach them.
I'll have to bleach them.
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Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
I'll go with the advice of Peggy Hall (Headmistress) from this very forum
As for cleaning your toilet: do NOT use any household chemical bowl cleaners, bleach, or household cleaning products containing bleach, pine oil, or "antibacterial" cleaners.
and from another forum
But mainly because bleach is corrosive, highly damaging to rubber and also breaks down hose resistance to odor permeation.
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Geez, the topic is indeed hotter (so to speak) than I thought.
I must have been lucky so far, because all I did was rinsing the whole circuit with several flushes of fresh water, whenever I left the boat unused for some time - and obviously before winterizing her. And never massaged any pipes, let alone WC ones!
In spite of that, in a dozen of years I never had any smell, leaks or problems of any sort, touch wood...
Anyway, I suppose my Tecmas won't complain if I'll feed them with some dishwasher powder, for a change vs. the usual diet....!
That sounds like the simpler/cheaper/less risky option, avoiding also the (very minor, TBH) hassle of pre-diluting the tablets.
What's not to like with that...?!
I must have been lucky so far, because all I did was rinsing the whole circuit with several flushes of fresh water, whenever I left the boat unused for some time - and obviously before winterizing her. And never massaged any pipes, let alone WC ones!
In spite of that, in a dozen of years I never had any smell, leaks or problems of any sort, touch wood...
Anyway, I suppose my Tecmas won't complain if I'll feed them with some dishwasher powder, for a change vs. the usual diet....!
That sounds like the simpler/cheaper/less risky option, avoiding also the (very minor, TBH) hassle of pre-diluting the tablets.
What's not to like with that...?!
MapisM
Well-Known Member
Just to answer your Q, yes, there is one, but the installer who fitted the tank in the bilge left a decent accessibility just to the pump and valves.
The inspection hatch on the upper part is barely reachable, and placed just an inch or so under a non-removable wooden panel.
I wasn't there when he did the job, but overall I can't complain, anyway.
Must admit that I even struggle to understand how he managed to squeeze the tank down there...!
Portofino
Well-Known Member
Bleach -thing is neat in a plastic bottle it's basically inert .Hence the shelf life .
It needs to mix with water to form Hypochorite .Thats why you dilute it .Hypochoride is another animal this is the dangerous bit that's destroys microbial cell walls (. Kills bugs) .it works better in v low concentration better ie 1% or 0-5 %
Yup as low as that is better at killing bugs than say 50 % .It needs water to form the active ingredient of Hypochorite ,and penetrates cell walls .
It's the living bugs that cause the odours .
Downside -Hypochorite is highly corrosive even dissolves stainless steel ( I know I have seen it ) never mind lesser metals
AND removes the platicisers in tubing -other words hardens it leading to brittle and poss fractures if they are moving /flexing .In a plastic bowl it will eventually destroy the smooth surface leading to staining ( forcing the perpetrator to splash more bleach in to remove the ever increasing stains )
At home in bog its in contact with a ceramic pedestal and none moving plastic piping compared to a boat .
I,am not sure what DW tabs have in them , but the jet of the water does a fair bit of the work with no tab added .
I use Starbrite boat toilet cleaner .
Also to keep the pipes plasticised a drop of ordinary shampoo or washing up liquid occasionally .
Never had a prob with 9 y Sunseeker Sealand vacufush .
Present boat has I think eletritic maecerator a central tank in the E room .No odours
Holding Tank is twixt engine beds -easy to get to
It needs to mix with water to form Hypochorite .Thats why you dilute it .Hypochoride is another animal this is the dangerous bit that's destroys microbial cell walls (. Kills bugs) .it works better in v low concentration better ie 1% or 0-5 %
Yup as low as that is better at killing bugs than say 50 % .It needs water to form the active ingredient of Hypochorite ,and penetrates cell walls .
It's the living bugs that cause the odours .
Downside -Hypochorite is highly corrosive even dissolves stainless steel ( I know I have seen it ) never mind lesser metals
AND removes the platicisers in tubing -other words hardens it leading to brittle and poss fractures if they are moving /flexing .In a plastic bowl it will eventually destroy the smooth surface leading to staining ( forcing the perpetrator to splash more bleach in to remove the ever increasing stains )
At home in bog its in contact with a ceramic pedestal and none moving plastic piping compared to a boat .
I,am not sure what DW tabs have in them , but the jet of the water does a fair bit of the work with no tab added .
I use Starbrite boat toilet cleaner .
Also to keep the pipes plasticised a drop of ordinary shampoo or washing up liquid occasionally .
Never had a prob with 9 y Sunseeker Sealand vacufush .
Present boat has I think eletritic maecerator a central tank in the E room .No odours
Holding Tank is twixt engine beds -easy to get to
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