A good collection of engine spares...

[Kristal]

Whilst I'm quite happy to fiddle with the iron donkey in a late-60s Triumph Spitfire, marine engines are something I'm only just starting to get a handle on. With our first extended cruise coming up, I'm keen to get the inventory in order, and that will include a number of spare parts.

Can anyone suggest a good, practical spares selection for a small cruising boat equipped with a Yanmar 1GM10? I've purchased this years service parts as a complete kit from Aqua Marine, but I suspect they will all be used when I service the beast (?) next week - perhaps an extra kit is in order, but anything else I should carry?

Cheers,

/<

 

[Evadne]

If its anything like the 1GM7 it eats one fanbelt per year, more if you neglect to tighten it at regular intervals. For that you need 13mm and 14mm spanners, ratchet and/or combination.
The oil filter is a Coopers Z819 or equivalent (or so I was told last year).
The anode should last 2 years, but obviously check it each year.
I always carry a gallon of oil, after a few nasty experiences.

Other than that there shouldn't be too much to do.

 

[Stemar]

Don't forget an impellor for your water pump(s).

I put a new one in every year, and if the old one looks OK (bend the fins and look for signs of cracking at their bases), I keep it as a spare and throw the old spare away.

The right way is to get a new spare and keep it safe in a box until you use it at the annual change (in spring, so you're replacing the one that's just spent the winter gluing itself into position) and buy a new spare.

IMHO, You're unlikely to need to change the oild filter in mid-channel, but a spare for every fuel filter is a must, as are the tools to change them and bleed the system. If you're not sure about the cleanliness of your tank and are likely to be motoring in rough weather a couple of spares wouldn't hurt.

Oh, I nearly forgot. A big roll of gaffer tape!

 

[iangrant]

Yanmar - fantastic engine..should run like a sewing machine.

Spare fuel filter(s) "O" rings, length of car radiator pipe, plastic pipe through joint, jubilee clips, socket set, open ended spanners for bleeding, plumbers expanding pliers for little filters, impeller, (A sod to do as you have to take it off!! pliers to pull it "O" ring seal for it, or fit speedseal)
Fan belt, length of wire, electrical crimps, distilled water, anti freeze, oil, roll of paper towel, electrical meter, engine electrical fuse (I seem to remember there is one), Araldite,(comes in a dual syringe now) Duct tape, WD 40, Torch, Magnet on a stick, mirror on a stick, jam jar, feeler guages, manual,

The list goes on but that should get you out of most breaks blockages leaks etc...

Ian

 

[ShipsWoofy]

Having just changed my oil pipes on one of my 1GM10's I would suggest having some spares made now. My new ones were built from reinforced hydraulic pipes for £17.00 for the two pipes.

The ones under the water pump, this is a very common fail on these engines I have been told. The tell tail from the water pump drips on the pipes and corrodes them. My next job is to fit new seals to the water pump.

Also consider a can of easy start, yes it is not great for the engine, but for getting started at sea it may save your life, it should also make hand starting easier, though I have not tried this yet.

Fan belts and impellers have also been noted. There is very little else to go wrong with these motors that you could repair at sea.

Hope this helps.

 

[ShipsWoofy]

Can you throw your next one in my direction please!

 

[Kristal]

Thanks to all replies - I must admit that the engine does run like a sewing machine, once it's started, but it's getting harder to get going in the cold weather (not terribly surprising, seeing as it's almost service time and almost sub-zero round here at the moment). Hand cranking the engine has never worked (I try occasionally, just for practise) - I cannot move the crack whilst the engine is under compression, and decompressing the cylinder, cranking, and then dumping the lever serves only to attempt to break my wrist... so a bit of easy start on the odd occasion isn't a bad idea.

Thanks again - I suspect I will post more on the PBO board from now on, now that I have a lengthening list of practical jobs to do and a friend on the verge of buying a houseboat...

/<

 

[Benbow]

Take more impellers than you could ever imagine needing. And buy them from different places at different times. If you change them every season, keep the old ones as spare spares. Also take some spare machine screws for the impeller housing in case one should fall into the bilge as you replace the 3rd faulty impeller in succession and you are starting to feel seasick and the bloke on deck tells you that you are not making any progress against the tide.

You may detect that I have had some bad experience with Yanmar impellers.

 

[silverseal]

If Yanmars eat fan belts, then I strongly advise that you take the belt to an industrial belt supplier and get him to match it. I had a car which did similar - 3 belts in two years - fitted an industrial belt and sold the car three years later without any further problem

 

[steve28]

if your only doing short coastal cruising, then a fuel filter and an impeller are the only usefull spares, when you start the engine make sure you use 3/4 to full throttle, especially when hand starting. Its very possible.
If you have a flat battery isolate the battery completely, hand start when the engine is warmed up, stop and then put the battery back on again and then re-handstart.

Just make sure you dont isolate or connect the batterys when the engine is running otherwise the regulator will pop in the alternator.

Steve