42' boat Propeller Repair need help.

Good choice.
Along the lines of optimizing other jobs while she's on the hard (don't ask me how I know something about that!), I'd definitely have also that shaft checked. Depending on boat age (i.e. if older than a dozen of years or so), it might make sense to check also the other one.
And unless cutlass bearings are still in very good shape, it's a good occasion to replace them too, while shafts are pulled.
Then there's the "usual" stuff, like anodes replacement, thru-hull fittings and seacocks check/replacement if required, antifoul stripping and/or application, shaft seals check...
Just use a bit of man math, and you'll find out that you're saving a lot of money, eventually! :encouragement:
 
I would say removing prop ashore = headache.

Removing prop afloat = full on migraine.

I've put props on in the water - lift and hold, remove props, tow boat to berth, refit in water.
It's really awkward! The keys are the hardest thing not to lose, and that would be impossible when taking them off i recon.
If you can get the puller on without dropping it that's a victory,
And you as soon as the prop comes off, you and the prop will sink fast whilst you pump up your BCD. Probably by too much and you shoot up and whack youself on the bottom of the boat.
Just no. Wise choice made.
 
I've put props on in the water - lift and hold, remove props, tow boat to berth, refit in water.
It's really awkward! The keys are the hardest thing not to lose, and that would be impossible when taking them off i recon.
If you can get the puller on without dropping it that's a victory,
And you as soon as the prop comes off, you and the prop will sink fast whilst you pump up your BCD. Probably by too much and you shoot up and whack youself on the bottom of the boat.
Just no. Wise choice made.

Agreed, as a diver with 35 years experience, I'll tackle most jobs underwater, but most definitely not prop removal.
 
Some thoughts.

Bearing in mind that this boat is highly unlikely to be exiting the Thames in the foreseeable future and will be spending 100% of its time at tickover. Pulling those shafts is a lot of extra work/money/time and may reveal nothing worth bothering with.
IMHO It is perfectly possible to put a dial gauge on those shafts, this will at least give you a very good idea if the shafts are true for all practical purposes.
Would check shaft midway between stern gland and "P" bracket and again between bracket and rear of prop boss/hub.
If no obvious deformation leave well alone and just get prop off and sorted.You can do it yourself,with a BIG set of pullers and lots of determination otherwise get the yard to do it.
If you are looking for extra work take off other prop and get it checked.
Other out of the water jobs.
Check for play in cutlass bearings, some play is NOT terminal .Do not go looking for problems,there plenty that will find you. !
Jet wash hull, if no obvious fouling present , would probably not bother re applying new A/F in the freshwater Thames.
Exercise all your seacocks with gusto turn em on and off to check they open/shut with ease, now is the time to find out if the handle comes off in your hand :(
 
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