40mm windlass cabling problem

dgadee

dgadee

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I thought I was being sensible in going up a size from the recommended wiring of 35mm to 40mm for my new windlass, but the opposite seems to be true. I can't find - after much searching - the copper tubular ring terminals for 40mm cable:

View attachment 46653

Not even my cable supplier has them. The standard seems to go from 35mm directly to 50mm.

What should I do? Remove some strands from each end to fit into 35mm terminals? Cut a slot out of 50mm ones? Use 50mm with both crimping and soldering?
 
Where did you even find 40mm cable? :) As you say, the standard sizes go 16, 25, 35, 50, and the fittings to match.

If you insist on using this odd-sized wiring, I think the only acceptable option would be to trim the end so it fits into a 35mm lug. Your other two suggestions won't give a good joint. It will be easier if you get the lugs with a slight "bell mouth" rather than the straight-sided one in your picture.

Pete
 
dgadee said:
I thought I was being sensible in going up a size from the recommended wiring of 35mm to 40mm for my new windlass, but the opposite seems to be true. I can't find - after much searching - the copper tubular ring terminals for 40mm cable:

View attachment 46653

Not even my cable supplier has them. The standard seems to go from 35mm directly to 50mm.

What should I do? Remove some strands from each end to fit into 35mm terminals? Cut a slot out of 50mm ones? Use 50mm with both crimping and soldering?
Click to expand...

You could possibly source some copper tubing pieces from plumbers/diy friends etc. and make your own, but would agree the simplest solution without causing a problem is to follow the previous advice from prv.
 
macd said:
And +1 on the bell mouths: makes the job much easier.
Click to expand...

I got a mixture when I was rewiring Ariam. The straight-sided ones were fine when the cable was freshly-stripped and unmolested, with all the strands still in line. I have no issue with them, and wouldn't make a special effort to get bell-mouths for normal work. I recommend them for the OP because his cable ends are going to be anything but unmolested! In the attempt to get messed-about ends into the lugs, he'd be liable to cut away too many strands and not form the crimp properly.

Pete
 
JumbleDuck said:
Use 50 mm2 cable. Why go to all this bother for a tiny improvement over 35 mm2 and a significant disadvantage compared to 50 mm2?
Click to expand...

Presumably because he already has the cable in his hand and doesn't want to pay again for another batch. Having cut it, the supplier won't take it back.

Pete
 
prv said:
Presumably because he already has the cable in his hand and doesn't want to pay again for another batch. Having cut it, the supplier won't take it back.
Click to expand...

In that case I think he'd be better to get rid of it and replace it with a standard size. It's not that expensive.
 
I suspect you haven't seen my answer on the other thread.

"I'd never heard of 40 sq mm cable but I see it comes up in BS6862 specifically as a vehicle battery wiring cable. It goes 25 - 40 - 60 whereas normal power cables go 25 - 35 - 50 sq mm.
I can't find anyone doing 40 sq mm crimp lugs or tools that list that size. I wonder if it will squeeze into a 35? There is quite a bit of clearance particularly if you get the flared end ones intended for flexible rather than 7 strand cable.
What does your cable supplier say?"

As it's speciality vehicle stuff, if you have a vehicle electrics place within reach, maybe they can help?
 
Tranona said:
£7+ a metre - probably got 20m for a windlass installation. Lots of beer to throw away!
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Doesn't one generally have a windlass battery by the windlass, with much more modest wires to recharge it? Even throwing £140 away wouldn't be that bad, though I grant you a little painful. Greengate Metals are giving £3.60/kg for scrap copper with the insulation removed ...
 
JumbleDuck said:
Doesn't one generally have a windlass battery by the windlass, with much more modest wires to recharge it?
Click to expand...

Some do, but plenty don't. It's almost essential for bow thrusters, and presumably bigger windlasses, but for the typical 1000w model I reckon a decent-sized pair of cables back to the domestic bank is a better choice. It's simpler, puts less weight in the bow, doesn't take up space, and there's nothing to go wrong.

Pete
 
dgadee said:
I thought you said "not expensive", young lad. Easier to spend someone else's money, perhaps?
Click to expand...

I believe my words were "not that expensive". i see you have it sorted (40mm wire and terminals seem to be automotive things) but if it was causing real problems it might have been best to groan and take the hit, painful though it would have been. Serious bit over, spending other people's money is much more fun than spending one's own. Why else would people enter politics?
 
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