33mm DEEP (4"+) Socket for removal of skin fitting?

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Trying to assist someone in our local club.

He's trying to remove a skin fitting to re-seal it. I advised him to grind it off and buy a new one but not happening.

So, inside the hull, the nut measures 33mm - plenty of 33mm sockets around, but none deep enough. I reckon the thread of the skin fitting is protruding about 4" out.

What do the experts do?

Also, he said the skin fitting is just spinning with the nut when he tried a bodge job on it previously... any way to stop this? I suggested sticking a pipe up from the outside (that will fit tight) and then hold it with a stilson or similar.

Any help appreciated.

-EDIT- Actually it needs to be about 55mm deep so about 2.1 / 2.2" deep to the bottom of the nut to the top of the threadded fitting.
 
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I used an angle grinder and stuck in a new fitting! You could also split the nut but you are likely to damage the threads. You could tack weld a bar on to stop it moving. All seems a lot of effort for a replacable part that is probably past its use by date anyway.
 
5teve said:
Surely a big socket, spanner or ring spanner is going to cost more than a skin fitting?

Steve
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I appreciate that, if it were me i'd be grinding it out. Just to backup what you say, my mechanic also said to just grind the damn thing out and be done with it as it would be cheaper!

Just to add, the reason for socket than spanner, there's not a hope a spanner will go in there, it's a very tight area.

Just thought i'd ask, no skin off my teeth.
 
There really is no alternative to grinding off the flange unless he can find a box spanner. To stop the fitting turning he should find the fitting has 2 lugs inside (from the outside) so you can put a bar in to stop it turning. Needs a second person of course.

A new DZR skin fitting is cheap so can't see any reason to struggle trying to re-use the old one.
 
Tranona said:
There really is no alternative to grinding off the flange unless he can find a box spanner. To stop the fitting turning he should find the fitting has 2 lugs inside (from the outside) so you can put a bar in to stop it turning. Needs a second person of course.

A new DZR skin fitting is cheap so can't see any reason to struggle trying to re-use the old one.
Click to expand...

+1 for that.

Going to need a spanner or socket to fit the replacement. Have one on the bilges, along with a special Allen key to remove the starter motor without the trouble I had before I made it. Oh also have the imperial spanners for the Blake's seacocks.
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The spanner was a chance purchase at a car boot sale.
 
30mm SS tube (or other), cut slats so fit snugly over nut ... cut at a bit excessive length, drill hole at top and thread large screwdriver through ... or anything that gives leverage... That gves you the socket piece...

Then device someting (such as a internal cone) to stop the fitting spinning ....

Reverse when fitting...
 
alt said:
Trying to assist someone in our local club.

He's trying to remove a skin fitting to re-seal it. I advised him to grind it off and buy a new one but not happening.

So, inside the hull, the nut measures 33mm - plenty of 33mm sockets around, but none deep enough. I reckon the thread of the skin fitting is protruding about 4" out.

What do the experts do?

Also, he said the skin fitting is just spinning with the nut when he tried a bodge job on it previously... any way to stop this? I suggested sticking a pipe up from the outside (that will fit tight) and then hold it with a stilson or similar.

Any help appreciated.

-EDIT- Actually it needs to be about 55mm deep so about 2.1 / 2.2" deep to the bottom of the nut to the top of the threadded fitting.
Click to expand...

If you look into the bore of the skin fitting from outside the hull there is often one or two small lugs/projections so you can make a suitable tool to insert and engage to stop the skin fitting rotating.

To turn the nut on the inside when there is no room to swing a spanner, try making one of these out of a clamp adapted to take a 1/2 inch square drive......
 

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Thanks for all the info.

The guy got a local fitter down and the nut was off in seconds... never saw what tool they used.
 
33mm deep sockets are readily available, you often just need to find a retailer who supplies special tools to the trade.
 
Many years ago, I made a suitable box spanner by finding a suitable piece of tubing, heating the end red hot and hammering it over a nut to form the hexagon. On the opposite end I welded on a 1/2" thick piece of steel with a square hole filed for a 1/2" ratchet spanner. Only had to use it a couple of times - can't for the life of me remember what for!
 
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