AngusMcDoon
Well-Known Member
It was nearly 2 years ago that I posted about a Seatalk to USB converter I had made. When I say USB, what I mean is that if you plug the device in it appears as a virtual COM port on your computer from where you get NMEA 0183 format messages. What this can be used for is to get all your data from your Seatalk network into an application like OpenCPN or MaxSea. The original thread is here with some photos of the data coming into OpenCPN...
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?278332-YAPP-Homemade-Seatalk-to-USB-interface
Finally I have made a PCB and put it into small production - 10 to be precise. I have revamped the software and now the following NMEA-0183 format messages are produced...
DBT (depth)
VWR (apparent wind speed and direction old format)
VWT (true wind speed and direction old format)
VHW (true heading, magnetic heading, boat speed)
HDM (magnetic heading different format)
MTW (water temperature)
RMC (time, date, lat, long, SOG, COG, magnetic variation)
VLW (trip and total log)
RMB (distance and bearing to destination, but not the other RMB fields)
MWV (true and apparent wind speed and direction, new format)
I have bought enough bits to make 10. They cost me £10.31 each. No box, but it can go in any small project box from Maplin. A standard USB cable will be needed too. I've tested it with OpenCPN and MaxSea running on Windows XP, Vista and 7, all 32 bit versions. If anyone wants one send me a PM. I don't specify a price, just make a contribution for what you think it's worth when you are happy with it, or else send it back.
Power for the device is taken from the Seatalk power line, not from your computer's USB port.
Some techy information hidden at the end...
I'm using a better voltage regulator this time. It's a LM2931. This is a load dump regulator designed for automotive applications like cars and boats. What this means is that it can reject up to 60V voltage spikes.
As Seatalk has 12V on its data line and USB going into someone's expensive computer is only 5V I have put in an opto-isolator to make sure that I don't damage anyone's computer if anything goes wrong in my design.
I haven't paid the USB consortium £2000 for a VID and a PID. I'm using the Microchip development one, so it might clash if you plug in something else that is also using the same ones at the same time. It's highly unlikely though, and if you did, you are probably a geek and realize what you are doing.
In USB speak this is a self powered device. This device must never source current on to the USB Vbus line. To achieve this, this device has an attach detector which controls when this device's processor enables its USB module.
Thanks to Thomas Knauf for his work on Seatalk...
http://www.thomasknauf.de/seatalk.htm
Seatalk is a trademark of Raymarine. These devices are not CE marked or EMC tested. See this thread for further information...
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?359650-YAPPs-in-production-and-CE-marking
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?278332-YAPP-Homemade-Seatalk-to-USB-interface
Finally I have made a PCB and put it into small production - 10 to be precise. I have revamped the software and now the following NMEA-0183 format messages are produced...
DBT (depth)
VWR (apparent wind speed and direction old format)
VWT (true wind speed and direction old format)
VHW (true heading, magnetic heading, boat speed)
HDM (magnetic heading different format)
MTW (water temperature)
RMC (time, date, lat, long, SOG, COG, magnetic variation)
VLW (trip and total log)
RMB (distance and bearing to destination, but not the other RMB fields)
MWV (true and apparent wind speed and direction, new format)
I have bought enough bits to make 10. They cost me £10.31 each. No box, but it can go in any small project box from Maplin. A standard USB cable will be needed too. I've tested it with OpenCPN and MaxSea running on Windows XP, Vista and 7, all 32 bit versions. If anyone wants one send me a PM. I don't specify a price, just make a contribution for what you think it's worth when you are happy with it, or else send it back.
Power for the device is taken from the Seatalk power line, not from your computer's USB port.
Some techy information hidden at the end...
I'm using a better voltage regulator this time. It's a LM2931. This is a load dump regulator designed for automotive applications like cars and boats. What this means is that it can reject up to 60V voltage spikes.
As Seatalk has 12V on its data line and USB going into someone's expensive computer is only 5V I have put in an opto-isolator to make sure that I don't damage anyone's computer if anything goes wrong in my design.
I haven't paid the USB consortium £2000 for a VID and a PID. I'm using the Microchip development one, so it might clash if you plug in something else that is also using the same ones at the same time. It's highly unlikely though, and if you did, you are probably a geek and realize what you are doing.
In USB speak this is a self powered device. This device must never source current on to the USB Vbus line. To achieve this, this device has an attach detector which controls when this device's processor enables its USB module.
Thanks to Thomas Knauf for his work on Seatalk...
http://www.thomasknauf.de/seatalk.htm
Seatalk is a trademark of Raymarine. These devices are not CE marked or EMC tested. See this thread for further information...
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?359650-YAPPs-in-production-and-CE-marking
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