2nd tiller pilot has just expired

[rhumlady]

It is ridiculous that people pay a hefty price for a piece of marine equipment that any fool knows is going to get wet from rain or salt water yet the manufacturers can't make them waterproof. They know it too which is even more galling. I still think not fit for purpose is the correct term. I have an Authentic 2000 with the seperate ram and control box which can be located in a reasonably sheltered part of the cockpit. I feel that is a much better setup.
As far as magnets are concerned I had problems in the Sound of Mull on a couple of occasions where we got a large deviation incurs for no apparent reason. A check of the chart shows a magnetic anomaly to the east of Calve Island which tied in with the problem helm.

 

[Robert Wilson]

It is ridiculous that people pay a hefty price for a piece of marine equipment that any fool knows is going to get wet from rain or salt water yet the manufacturers can't make them waterproof. They know it too which is even more galling. I still think not fit for purpose is the correct term. I have an Authentic 2000 with the seperate ram and control box which can be located in a reasonably sheltered part of the cockpit. I feel that is a much better setup.
As far as magnets are concerned I had problems in the Sound of Mull on a couple of occasions where we got a large deviation incurs for no apparent reason. A check of the chart shows a magnetic anomaly to the east of Calve Island which tied in with the problem helm.

Would a "magnetic anomaly" affect echo sounder?
I ask because the first time I sailed up the SoM, just near Calve Island the depth below keel suddenly went from tens of metres to zero. Scared the living wotsits out me as I was solo, in unfamiliar waters and on my first time aboard for 30 years!!

 

[Seajet]

Submarine ?

 

[Storyline]

.....
As far as magnets are concerned I had problems in the Sound of Mull on a couple of occasions where we got a large deviation incurs for no apparent reason. A check of the chart shows a magnetic anomaly to the east of Calve Island which tied in with the problem helm.

o/t - that explains a mystery that occurred a few years ago when we were mid way through a cruise and our autohelm compass failed. A replacement was couriered up to Tobermory and was waiting when we arrived. Fitted it and then went out into the sound and calibrated it by going round in large circles - for the next day or two it behaved very strangely and was only fixed by another calibration on the west side of Mull.

The anomaly now explains it - thanks

 

[Robert Wilson]

Submarine ?

Could have been. Never thought of that.

Bounders! They should be more careful and stay out of the way of nervous sailors......

 

[Robert Wilson]

What size fuse?

Pete

I don't know yet, as I haven't retrieved it from the junk in the chart-table (where I carefully put it) doh!
It's one of those very small glass fuses, (as are all the fuses in the control panel).

I shall report back. In the meantime, assuming the tiny fuse isn't up to the job, would it be sensible/practical to hard-wire the switch on the control panel then put an in-line fuse of higher load capacity immediately/as close as afterwards?

 

[2nd_apprentice]

Fuses protect the wiring, don't fit a bigger fuse without upgrading or checking the recommended maximum fuse size. This has nothing to do with the tiller pilot per se.

 

[Robert Wilson]

Fuses protect the wiring, don't fit a bigger fuse without upgrading or checking the recommended maximum fuse size. This has nothing to do with the tiller pilot per se.

Thank you. I had a sort of idea that is the case. The instructions for said TP are on the boat (useful!) so I'll check them next time aboard to see what size fuse the TP requires.
The wiring within the control/switch panel is very thin stuff, but then it connects to beefy stuff to go the TP plug.
I don't like electricity, it baffles me!

 

[TQA]

Dylan you are not alone.

Webb Chiles is on a potential circumnavigation in a lightweight 24 ft flyer. He set out from California earlier this year and I think has just reached Samoa? Anyway he has a bundle of the b******rs and is already on number 4.

 

[chinita]

I tried a condom on mine but it just split asunder when I poked the ram through the teat bit on the end.

Try using an unused one.

Well, you are a Yorkshireman

 

[aquaplane]

A used one would have been over stretched

Since I have been firing blanks for some time the First Mate gave me a very funny look when I put them in the basket.

 

[prv]

I don't know yet, as I haven't retrieved it from the junk in the chart-table (where I carefully put it) doh!

I just wondered, because a too-small fuse would exactly fit the symptoms you described. The motor, having reached its endpoint in a sudden gust with the boat rounding up, would be drawing maximum power. If someone had put the wrong sized fuse in the panel, or wired it to an existing circuit without checking, then it would blow the fuse despite nothing being wrong with the pilot.

The manual says it should have a 12 amp fuse. If it's less than that, this is probably your problem.

As 2nd apprentice says, you shouldn't fit a fuse at a higher rating than the cabling can take. However, 12 amps is not extreme. I can't remember cable ratings off the top of my head, but I imagine 1mm^2 would be ok from a current point of view. Surely any sane distro board wiring would be at least this size? Volt drop (a separate question) is probably not an issue if the main run of cable is "beefy" as described, and in any case doesn't present a danger per se.

Summary: check the fuse, if it's less than 12 amps pop one of those in instead.

Pete

 

[Robert Wilson]

I just wondered, because a too-small fuse would exactly fit the symptoms you described. The motor, having reached its endpoint in a sudden gust with the boat rounding up, would be drawing maximum power. If someone had put the wrong sized fuse in the panel, or wired it to an existing circuit without checking, then it would blow the fuse despite nothing being wrong with the pilot.

The manual says it should have a 12 amp fuse. If it's less than that, this is probably your problem.

As 2nd apprentice says, you shouldn't fit a fuse at a higher rating than the cabling can take. However, 12 amps is not extreme. I can't remember cable ratings off the top of my head, but I imagine 1mm^2 would be ok from a current point of view. Surely any sane distro board wiring would be at least this size? Volt drop (a separate question) is probably not an issue if the main run of cable is "beefy" as described, and in any case doesn't present a danger per se.

Summary: check the fuse, if it's less than 12 amps pop one of those in instead.

Pete

Encouraging. Tomorrow's "top of the list".
That is if the midges don't get to the dinghy before I do. Little 'stewards, even attacked today when there was a breeze.
Send 'em all to Ukraine and Gaza, that'll keep all those terrywrists indoors and not out fighting.

 

[charles_reed]

I started this trip with two tiller pilots

an ST 2000 that came with the bioat that was amazing

at night it was better on the helm than any human

but it rained and it stopped - now all it does is beep like a sad seagull chick

the other was the st1000

less good but I have been using it since I started KTL so it had a seven year bashing

It has got a bit wet but a few minutes under the fan heater and it starts again


not this time though

after the journey between Orkney and Eirbol when it got wet a few times it has also expired

the fan heater treatment produces no cure

does anyone have an old but unwanted one they are willing to swap for ktl DVds

yours

Ron Hopeful

PS - here is the story of the journey

http://www.keepturningleft.co.uk/sailing-around-britain/best-of-times-and/

My experience is that NONE of the all-in-one tillerpilots will work through a thorough rainfall - after 5 in 4 years I changed to an early 4000ST and it's worked faultlessly for the past 23 years and 50K nautical miles.

 

[charles_reed]

Further to my earlier post regarding my new ST1000 blowing a fuse on it's first time used.

This happened when on a reach in light.ish(F2 - F3?)winds then a strong gust between two islands started to round-up the boat and the unit had to work harder. It fully extended, stopped working and on investigation I found the fuse on the switch panel had blown.

In what sort of wind strengths should these expensive units function properly? I'd like to be able to rely on it for fore-deck work and/or going below, but on this experience I think it will be pretty useless.

Please don't say my rigging is badly set-up......................

Expensive units!!!

Look at Robertson etc, proper autopilots - they're x10 the price of the produced-to-the-lowest price all-in-ones.

I fear expectations exceed probability

 

[Robert Wilson]

Expensive units!!!

Look at Robertson etc, proper autopilots - they're x10 the price of the produced-to-the-lowest price all-in-ones.

I fear expectations exceed probability

Great! Now you tell me!!
Ah well, I only purchased it as the old one that came with the boat went phut, and I rarely used it anyway. What I really must do is set-up a working tiller lashing or "sheet-to-tiller" system. However, as said previously, I haven't yet managed to balance the sails properly yet. Must do better!!

 

[AngusMcDoon]

My experience is that NONE of the all-in-one tillerpilots will work through a thorough rainfall - after 5 in 4 years I changed to an early 4000ST and it's worked faultlessly for the past 23 years and 50K nautical miles.

To lose one to water ingress is unfortunate. To lose 5 to the same cause when making a cover costs a fiver shows a rather stunning lack of imagination. They leak. We all know they do. They shouldn't, but it's an imperfect world. The solution is trivial. Mine, as stated above, has now done 32k miles under its cover.

 

[ghostlymoron]

I think they're wonderful. They steer a very straight course and never get tired. I wish I still had mine! You have to be very careful when re-assembling them to make sure the gasket is properly seated (some of them are twisted out of position presumably from new) and but some silicone grease on it. No help if it's already bust though. I had a problem with mine once (probably because it was too small for the boat) and Raymarine overhauled it for 40 quid which I thought was good value. Never had any further problems until I sold the boat.

 

[Eygthene]

I sent my rain-damaged Autohelm 1000 (with the same symptoms as the OP's) to The Service Centre, Maritime Services Ltd., Ryan Business Centre, Sandford Lane, Wareham, Dorset, BH20 4DY tel. 01929 554558. www.theservicecentre.eu
They make a standard charge of £65.94p to examine and provide a quotation. Mine needed repairs to the PCB tracks and a replacement fluxgate compass. They charged an additional £75 to complete the repairs. Most helpful and returned in just a few days. Now it works just fine.
I also have a Raymarine Tiller pilot which is my spare, but it doesn't seem to steer as calmly as the old Autohelm, making far more tiller movements and presumably using more power.
We use a cover now to protect the units from rain and from overheating in strong sunlight.

 

[prv]

I also have a Raymarine Tiller pilot which is my spare, but it doesn't seem to steer as calmly as the old Autohelm, making far more tiller movements and presumably using more power.

Have you tried adjusting the rudder gain, rudder damping, and possibly the cruising speed?

Pete