290DP - Steering Helmt / Yoke - Shoulder Screw

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alt

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Still working on my friends 305 Statesman... out-drives today!

Note item 5 here: https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7745630-44-19573B.aspx

The shoulder screw that connects the steering yoke / helmet... says out of production. I need 2, what are my options? Can they be got, or go to an engineering firm and get them to make 2 new ones? (I have 2 good ones from one out-drive.

1 was seized (got it free), and was stopping free movement of the steering helmet... when I tighten them up (not too tight) with a ratchet, the steering helmet becomes tight up / down ... it's just the should screw, and it tightens on to the steering helmet (after going through the yoke) - is this correct? It seems odd, I can't help but feel that if you don't tighten it, it'll work its way loose.

BTW, this is a 1990 305 Statesman with AQAD41's
 
MartynG said:
I wonder if this is it but by no means sure
https://www.asap-supplies.com/volvo-penta-engine-shoulder-screw-18696
Click to expand...

I came across that alright, but can't be sure.

A bit of Googling suggests that normally, the fork / helmet are one unit and is not designed to be separated, but there was exceptions (my friends being one!). It looks as though the shoulder screw should have a washer and nut on the inside (inside the helmet, so next to the out-drive UJ's) - If this is the case, it'll be a trip to the local engineering firm to make up 2 new ones, get stainless washers and 'shallow' stainless nuts.
 
I removed mine to replace the trim sender driving wheel and gear segment when replacing the sender. They always barnacle up in my waters. My nut appears to be either welded to or part of the helmet. The bolts in mine came out easy enough so not sure why yours should have seized in. 1 difference though, my bolts go from the outside in and in that diagram seems to show from the inside out. As my nuts are welded in I know I havent got it ass about face.
 
Later drives are outside in.
I seem to remember something about disassembling the yoke not being a good idea ...
 
The diagram is confusing.

They were screwed from the outside in as mentioned above.

On the helmet itself, the hole was threaded, so that's where the bolt was gripping. As I tightened, the helmet got very tight, presumably pulling in towards the fork.

I suspect you lightly tighten the bolt from the outside and then tighten the nut against the helmet (on the inside). This allows the shoulder bolt to move freely within the fork, but not the helmet (so it moves with the helmet)... does that make sense?

We has no option but to loosen this nut earlier as the helmet was seized. On the other outdrive, there is one nut missing! And the other has been replaced by some bronze looking thing... Can't wait to tackle that!!
 
MartynG said:
I wonder if this is it but by no means sure
https://www.asap-supplies.com/volvo-penta-engine-shoulder-screw-18696
Click to expand...

Pretty certain that is the item concerned.
Not sure if they are interchangeable between drives.
During the frequent dismantlings of my 280 drives, those bolts had to be removed, dab of grease made sure for next time.First time removal involved removing steering yoke then much heat and penetrating oil.
Mine had a very slim stainless spring washer between bolt head and steering helmet.
This enabled bolt to be done up tight against nut but not to crush helmet hard against yoke as it needs to move when leg is trimmed/ raised..If that makes sense. ?
On reflection think the hood hole was threaded and the stainless nut acted purely as a "lock nut".

On dark stormy nights still have nightmares about the poxy things....:):):)



 
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Volvo decreed it a non serviceable item after some “rumoured “ or actual failed repaired about 30? Years ago in USA along with expensive litigation as I recall it’s a major safety item
 
Well at least the parts are available – which is not bad considering the age of the boat.
 
OK, so in that case, looks like my friend will be getting the shoulder screws made up locally, fitted with a washer, shallow nut and lots of Loctite... it's not the way i'd be doing things, but as mentioned before, this is a shoe-string budget renovation.
 
We are talking outdrives here.
this is a shoe-string budget renovation.
Click to expand...
There is no such thing.....
.........................................and this is merely the beginning. :)
What was the gearbox oil like, hopefully nice and clear and no scoring on propshaft.:encouragement:
 
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oldgit said:
We are talking outdrives here.

There is no such thing.....
.........................................and this is merely the beginning. :)
What was the gearbox oil like, hopefully nice and clear and no scoring on propshaft.:encouragement:
Click to expand...

Changed the prop-shaft seals, shafts looked OK, no visible scoring anyhow. Oil in one of the out-drives had a little water, hence the prop-shaft seal change (everything else looked OK)

Given that the last thing we have to do to the boat, apart from tidying up (the owner can do all that himself):
1) out-drives
2) window seals

We're not doing too bad. That said, if he was paying me labour, it'd be in the thousands now, so wouldn't be shoe-string alright. Although, when he realises how much beer he's going to have to feed me this summer, he may have wished he just paid someone to do the work!

To date, his bill for parts has come to about €3k, so not too shabby at all!
 
alt said:
OK, so in that case, looks like my friend will be getting the shoulder screws made up locally, fitted with a washer, shallow nut and lots of Loctite... it's not the way i'd be doing things, but as mentioned before, this is a shoe-string budget renovation.
Click to expand...

You are clearly not happy . I think some expert advice is required here. This course of action might not be safe.
 
MartynG said:
You are clearly not happy . I think some expert advice is required here. This course of action might not be safe.
Click to expand...

Not sure what to make of your response, tbf your posts are about as useful as a f4rt in a spacesuit... but feel free to contribute something useful.

"Clearly not happy" - It's not my boat. I'm just helping a mate out, I couldn't give a damn, but mentioned it's not how i'd do things (If you're bored, you will see from my previous posts I tend to do things by the book and don't care about costs)

"Some expert advise is required here" - Got any to give?

"This course of action may not be safe" - It's how Volvo did it, although ended up in litigation, according to previous posts. I have a methodology to make this work, in a safe way. We'll test, and happily to report back to people with a more positive outlook on things.... it's easy to make up a conception, just like newer Volvo devices, to have a 'push in, not come out again' device.
 
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alt said:
Not sure what to make of your response, tbf your posts are about as useful as a f4rt in a spacesuit...
.
Click to expand...

Sorry you feel that way.
I read you remarks as not being happy with the safety of the proposed repair.
 
MartynG said:
Sorry you feel that way.
I read you remarks as not being happy with the safety of the proposed repair.
Click to expand...

Point taken, no hard feelings.

If you felt i'm "not happy", it's because it's 'not by the book'.... When it comes to my machines, i'm a bit anal about things and don't scrimp... this project is on a totally different spectrum. This boat is a bit of a "it cost nothing (to me), let's have some fun with it and see what happens"
 
From experience the older helmets hand changeable bolts with lock nuts.
Replacement helmet came complete with the fork

You could try and find a 280 helmet which had the changable screw system
Make sure your helmet is tapped with a thread.
 
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