290 DP Bellow Kit - Go with genuine?

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alt

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I remember someone (possibly VP) mentioning to go with genuine bellow kits as they use stainless jubilee clips, whereas aftermarket may use a weaker metal.

Is this true or am I imagining it? If genuine, where's my best bet to order from? Need them delivered to Northern Ireland.
 
We have always used genuine bellows on ours. We get them from Keypart normally although this year the chandlery at our marina had a deal on which we couldn't really refuse.
 
I bought non genuine from Keypart last year and noticed the clips were inferior to the ones I was taking off so refitted the originals.
Have to say though I always seem to be removing perfectly good bellows and always suspect the stock I'm buying might be older than ones I'm removing! Freshwater doesn't seem to degrade bellows very much.
 
The boat will be on fresh water, but as you say above, the main reason i'm changing the bellows is because the jubilee clips... the nut has rusted to bits and I suspect it will have to be cut off.
 
The guy who services most of the engines around here told me to get the genuine bellows, said you can feel the difference in quality of the rubber in the non genuine ones.

They're now the only part I buy genuine.

The way I look at it, they're probably the only service part specific to a marine engine so there wouldn't be the same economies of scale you'd get with the likes of Filters and belts etc so you're not likely to get as good a part as the original.
 
Very valid point. Wouldn't be so worried about the exhaust as opposed to the UJ bellows, but might aswell go the whole hog while i'm at it.

How much does the 290 DP leg weigh (with alu props removed), anyone hazard a guess? I'm pretty sure it's a 2 person job, we'll have a trolley jack to support it from the skeg
 
I've changed the bellows on my two DP290's about six times and never removed the drives, just followed Spannermans quick guide:

 Tilt drive fully down

 Drain oil

 Remove the rear cover

 Disconnect the gear shift at the upper quadrant,

 Remove the two hex bolts in the round spigot on the steering helmet, (use the long screw from the cover in one of the two small holes to each side in the spigot to wind it out)

 Swing helmet up out of the way

 Remove the two 14mm nuts, one each side of the upper housing

 Remove the two upside down hex bolts inside at the rear above the gear shift quadrant.

 Loosen the two bellows hose clips

 Prise up the upper housing until the vertical shaft in side clears the lower section,

 Twist the housing 90 degrees

 Withdraw from the bellows.

(Make sure that you don't lose any shims that sit under the large bearing in the upper section, sometimes they stick to the bearing, place them in the recess in the mid section for safety.
Sometimes the break coupling follows the upper shaft as you lift it, just shove it back down with a screwdriver so it sits on the lower vertical shaft in the mid section.)
Now you can replace the bellows, we always replace the two 'O' rings between upper and mid section too, and rebuild in reverse, note the bellows is marked TOP at the the rear. And refill with approx 2.7 liters of oil, with new 'O' rings on the drain/top plugs.

Easy, 30mins a side if your good :)
 
Given it is one of the few items on the boat that if it fails the boat will probably sink, and worse it is made of perishable rubber I would tend to go with the Volvo part.

Lord forbid anything happened then at least you can say to your insurers and yourself genuine parts were used.

I don't know the difference in price but when I had an outdrive boat I don't recall the bellows cost being that significant on the invoice.
 
We always go with genuine Volvo bellows, you can feel the difference in quality and besides, How many other parts do you change on your boat that keep the water on the outside? For the cost difference versus the cost of failure it really is just not worth the risk.
 
Genuine it is, thanks guys.

Will go with the method of not removing drive too, will hunt down part numbers for o rings later
 
alt said:
Genuine it is, thanks guys.

Will go with the method of not removing drive too, will hunt down part numbers for o rings later
Click to expand...

Have always found it easier to remove drive, if you dismantle top don't forget to pressure & vacuum test afterwards.
 
So, when I went to inspect my friends out-drives today (these are 290 DP, mine are DP-G), I found this plastic washer stuck between the top section of the out-drive and the bit below it. I could smell gear-oil and looked like a bit was weeping out. So, looks like we'll be taking apart the top end of the out-drive now regardless.... wtf was the engineer thinking?
dg1_zpszpshrgtn.jpg


Also, some bright spark (possibly the same person) decided to use a screw-driver when replacing the prop-shaft seals... even I know not to do this (but thanks to volvopaul for advising to use a pullers instead). Cowboys, Ted!!
dg2_zpsrh3pcfqv.jpg


Finally, on the same out-drive, I noticed a 'click' when I push the out-drive from side to side. It appears to be coming from the steering helmet, either where the 2 alley bolts are, or behind that.... any ideas??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBh6kSA5OqE
 
Its parts 21 and 20 in the picture. By the way in several hundred 290 bellows replacements I have never had a problem and never needed to do pressure and vacuum checks, and this goes for about 15 other VP mechanics I know well. Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and you grease the O rings and you will be fine.
 
spannerman said:
Its parts 21 and 20 in the picture. By the way in several hundred 290 bellows replacements I have never had a problem and never needed to do pressure and vacuum checks, and this goes for about 15 other VP mechanics I know well. Just make sure the mating surfaces are clean and you grease the O rings and you will be fine.
Click to expand...

Many thanks spannerman, much appreciated. With 21, I got a little confused. I'm guessing that this KeyPart product are those 2 O-Rings? http://www.keypart.com/stock/832669-r


While we're on the topic, I see loads of mention of changing the 290 bellows this method, but nothing about the DP-G (which I have). As my bellows will need changing next season, can it be done the same way? If so, i'd may aswell order those O-rings now for my drives, too. Although, looking at this diagram, it appears to be a different configuration http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744570-44-4794.aspx
 
alt said:
Many thanks spannerman, much appreciated. With 21, I got a little confused. I'm guessing that this KeyPart product are those 2 O-Rings? http://www.keypart.com/stock/832669-r


While we're on the topic, I see loads of mention of changing the 290 bellows this method, but nothing about the DP-G (which I have). As my bellows will need changing next season, can it be done the same way? If so, i'd may aswell order those O-rings now for my drives, too. Although, looking at this diagram, it appears to be a different configuration http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744570-44-4794.aspx
Click to expand...

That Keypart link is for the top cover O ring which is an O ring with a small O ring joined to it, you don't need that unless you are going to remove the top cover. Just 20 and 21 in the exploded view.
A DPG drive is one piece and can't be split like a 290 drive so yes complete removal is required same as the newer DPH drives on D4/6 motors.
 
Thanks again for the info. I had an interesting day today, will upload pics tomorrow!

Regarding O-ring 21 in the following diagram: http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7744470-44-7332.aspx

Is it saying that there is an O-ring both above and below item 12, hence 2 O-rings?

Giong to order bits from KeyPart tomorrow... need to order lots of small bits... glad I took things apart today before ordering.
 
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