keywestyakker
New member
Hello, thanks if you can help.
Issue: Starts first pull, idles smooth, revs smooth. Once it hits mid-throttle it feels/like a rev limiter kicks in and it flattens out just like a rev limiter does. Happens exactly same spot on throttle up. Anything below mid-throttle it runs like brand new.
I am pretty sure that I have it isolated to the Igniter Unit (ignition coil) part 33410-97J01. I have an older model 2010 which allowed me to swap parts to confirm that they worked (switching old to new and new to old) and confirmed they were good. I even went as far as doing a leak down test (@8% leakdown), replaced the head gasket, verified no cracks, leaks, and even swapped out the valve springs (thought valve float after I replaced the ignition coil).
In regards to the igniter unit, I used the service manual from the older version service manuals to get the testing procedures and expected ranges of the igniter. The igniter unit on this outboard is different than the older versions pre-2012. However, I verified with a Suzuki tech that even the most updated service manuals 2021 still show the old tech pages. Testing my existing unit, it showed no primary resistance and very low secondary (below spec) resistance. Great I thought. I ordered a new one. Received that and tested it before installing and it showed zero primary resistance and secondary resistance just below spec. Since I did not have an updated service manual I figured that it was just a different design so the spec would not apply. Installed and same exact problem. Exact same flattening out issue at same exact spot. Figured it might be a bad unit so had it exchanged and got another one. Same exact thing. That is when I started looking to see if there was an actual spec sheet for this newer ignition and found out everybody had the same old spec sheets (2 Suzuki shops and the company I was buying them from).
Here is where I could use somebodies help. If you have a 2012-2021 Suzuki outboard and a basic multi-meter, could you do a basic test for me and let me know what your igniter reads at. I'll attach the service page which shows exactly what needs to be done, but what I am needing is to test the primary and secondary coil resistance.
I'll attach the service manual page so you can see what needs to be done. Pretty easy.
1) Set your multimeter to Ohms(resistance) 20.
2) Primary Resistance - Touch the negative probe to the terminal where your cutoff switch wire plugs into the coil (remove the wire first) and the positive probe to the base of the coil (ground). Take a reading.
3) Secondary Resistance - Touch the negative probe to the spark plug cap (inside where the spark plug connects) and the positive to the base of the coil (ground). Take a reading.
That is it. I just need to know what it should actually read so I can verify what these replacement igniters should be testing at. I am assuming zero primary resistance is universal for being a dead unit.
Thank you for the help. I have been working on this for months and it has been driving me nuts.
Steve
The reason why I am fairly confident it is the igniter unit is that I swapped the igniter unit from my older 2010 to the 2017 and the motor revved through the spot where I was having problems. It pulled all the way to maxing out. It made it run fairly good. It confirmed that I did not have a more serious hardware problem. However, the motor idles and at lower rpms it is kind of ragged and not smooth.
Issue: Starts first pull, idles smooth, revs smooth. Once it hits mid-throttle it feels/like a rev limiter kicks in and it flattens out just like a rev limiter does. Happens exactly same spot on throttle up. Anything below mid-throttle it runs like brand new.
I am pretty sure that I have it isolated to the Igniter Unit (ignition coil) part 33410-97J01. I have an older model 2010 which allowed me to swap parts to confirm that they worked (switching old to new and new to old) and confirmed they were good. I even went as far as doing a leak down test (@8% leakdown), replaced the head gasket, verified no cracks, leaks, and even swapped out the valve springs (thought valve float after I replaced the ignition coil).
In regards to the igniter unit, I used the service manual from the older version service manuals to get the testing procedures and expected ranges of the igniter. The igniter unit on this outboard is different than the older versions pre-2012. However, I verified with a Suzuki tech that even the most updated service manuals 2021 still show the old tech pages. Testing my existing unit, it showed no primary resistance and very low secondary (below spec) resistance. Great I thought. I ordered a new one. Received that and tested it before installing and it showed zero primary resistance and secondary resistance just below spec. Since I did not have an updated service manual I figured that it was just a different design so the spec would not apply. Installed and same exact problem. Exact same flattening out issue at same exact spot. Figured it might be a bad unit so had it exchanged and got another one. Same exact thing. That is when I started looking to see if there was an actual spec sheet for this newer ignition and found out everybody had the same old spec sheets (2 Suzuki shops and the company I was buying them from).
Here is where I could use somebodies help. If you have a 2012-2021 Suzuki outboard and a basic multi-meter, could you do a basic test for me and let me know what your igniter reads at. I'll attach the service page which shows exactly what needs to be done, but what I am needing is to test the primary and secondary coil resistance.
I'll attach the service manual page so you can see what needs to be done. Pretty easy.
1) Set your multimeter to Ohms(resistance) 20.
2) Primary Resistance - Touch the negative probe to the terminal where your cutoff switch wire plugs into the coil (remove the wire first) and the positive probe to the base of the coil (ground). Take a reading.
3) Secondary Resistance - Touch the negative probe to the spark plug cap (inside where the spark plug connects) and the positive to the base of the coil (ground). Take a reading.
That is it. I just need to know what it should actually read so I can verify what these replacement igniters should be testing at. I am assuming zero primary resistance is universal for being a dead unit.
Thank you for the help. I have been working on this for months and it has been driving me nuts.
Steve
The reason why I am fairly confident it is the igniter unit is that I swapped the igniter unit from my older 2010 to the 2017 and the motor revved through the spot where I was having problems. It pulled all the way to maxing out. It made it run fairly good. It confirmed that I did not have a more serious hardware problem. However, the motor idles and at lower rpms it is kind of ragged and not smooth.
