200L tank leaking repair project!

Yes, thanks Gordmac. I was searching a heating oil tank last night (1200L+ size). End up I bought 3 recondition steel drums (205L each) on eBay just because that seller can deliver the drums to me.
And I am going to buy a transfer pump with 40L/min capacity and a long hose, and some filter to file the diesel.
 
A lot of Trader owners feel your pain. One local to us had his tank bund lined by a specialist. Not sure where you are but if you google bund lining fuel tanks something local to you may come up.
 
No worries. The storage problem solved I think by buying the 3 steel drums. It can hold 615L, I think should be big enough. I can fill the extra to the port tank if any.

I also found I might need to replace the fuel gauge for the port tank first as it looks not working good.
 
I wouldn't filter your diesel as you put it into storage drums as they do corrode internally and often have micro debris in them and you will be filtering diesel into potentially contaminated tanks.

As you transfer your diesel back into your good tank the most certainly filter it because any contamination in your storage drums will be going back into your fuel tank and they get enough contamination without adding more.
 
Good point. Then I will need to first check the steel drums when they arrive. And of course need to filtering when fill back to boat tank. I am also buying a couple more difficult filters such as normal filter and diesel water separator.
 
How about getting a flexible tank made. Cut an opening in the top of the tank and place inside? This will then be a permanent repair.

Problem is you would also have to cut all the baffles out (free surface effect?) as well to create an open area to fit the bladder tank, in many cases access to the top of tanks is limited.
 
A lot of Trader owners feel your pain.

Not just Traders Bruce, many 80’s - early 90’s Asian built, steel fuel tanked boat owners feel the same pain. In some cases owners have cut holes in the sides of the hull to remove the old tanks. You can read some interesting stories on the Trawler Forum about this topic.
 
CT-1 will seal this if you can get to it. Not the best practice but will work.

This.

I had exactly the same problem with mine, a leak on one tank that couldn't be removed without either chopping up the interior or removing an engine.
I spent a vast amount of tine trying to find a compound to patch it with, mine had a series of very small holes in the base but the rest of the tank and surrounding material was sound.
The only compound that claims to be diesel resistant long term is CT1.
I had some plates cut to re-line the bottom of the tank, stuck them down with CT1 then painted the whole interior with POR15 tank guard treatment.
The idea was just to try and buy a year or two breathing space with it, so far it's held solid for nearly 2 years and still going strong.
Not a fun job, trying to steam clean, pressure wash, vacuum, sand then repair through tiny access hatches, but it worked!

Before and afters:

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I had to remove 800 litres. Boat lifted out, so syphon to plastic 200lt drums. For refilling, put the boat in the water and made a jiggle syphon, a big one: one inch flex hose with a foot valve one end, ball valve close to the other. It delivered 200 litres in a very few minutes. Using the ball valve means you could regulate the flow for straining, 125 denier tights across the top of a funnel. Also maintains the syphon while you change drums. Foot valves come with strainers and leave the dregs behind for checking before you pour the last bit.
 
Thanks mates. A lot of great inputs!

Murv, you did a beautiful job! Thanks for sharing that.

Fisherman, your experience very helpful. I just received three steel drums. I will prepare a setup pretty much like yours.

Will do a experiment to seal my leaking wet vacuum machine bucket in a few days. Hope that sealer working okay.
 

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