2 stroke Mariner 2.5HP, 1980s any views.

[LadyJ]

Looking to buy a tender engine for occasional use and storage in a wet locker when not is use (in a heavy duty bag). Any views on the engine and what to look for when buying and also any thoughts on storage. I have an aux (suzuki longshaft 6hp) for this so the 2.5hp 2 stroke is only for tender use.

 

[Alpha22]

I have one of those beasts!!

They do have quite narrow waterways so if it has been used on salt water I would be paying some attention to the teltale, which even when good, isn't brilliant.

It's not a major engineering feat to strip and clean though....... so if the price is right....

 

[oldgit]

Mine was a real pain to start after winter storage.The water jacket would very easily become clogged with salt and the tell tale refuse to work.
The spark plug was always becoming fouled and vital a spare was always handy.
It became an interesting matter as to if it would conk out on the the way there or one the way back.
Did remove head once or twice to unclog ,eventually gave up an sold the horrid thing.!

 

[steve66]

I have one for sale if interested, runs sweetly and pumps loads of water £150 if your interested

Mine was a real pain to start after winter storage.The water jacket would very easily become clogged with salt and the tell tale refuse to work.
The spark plug was always becoming fouled and vital a spare was always handy.
It became an interesting matter as to if it would conk out on the the way there or one the way back.
Did remove head once or twice to unclog ,eventually gave up an sold the horrid thing.!

 

[Firefly625]

I have one for sale if interested, runs sweetly and pumps loads of water £150 if your interested

ask Lisilou what she paid for a similar machine.....I think £300 or £350 from memory..

little 2 stroke outboards like these are great and very sort after. I have a 2 stroke Mercury 3.5hp...with neutral & forward, just a perfect set up & so light.

 

[lisilou]

Well remembered FF.
Ours is a 2hp Mariner, 1982 IIRC and yes it cost us £350 last year. I love it because it's fairly light and kind of a loveable antiquity but more importantly, I can actually start the damn thing unlike the last brand new 4 stroke which I couldn't start for love nor money!
It's quirky, very old and dirty looking not to mention it has no neutral and you have to turn it 180 deg to reverse.... but I love it.
L

 

[Firefly625]

Well remembered FF.
Ours is a 2hp Mariner, 1982 IIRC and yes it cost us £350 last year. I love it because it's fairly light and kind of a loveable antiquity but more importantly, I can actually start the damn thing unlike the last brand new 4 stroke which I couldn't start for love nor money!
It's quirky, very old and dirty looking not to mention it has no neutral and you have to turn it 180 deg to reverse.... but I love it.
L

they are worth looking after, you will never get another outboard so
light and easy to use! And the worse it looks the less likely it is to go anywhere!

 

[LadyJ]

Thanks for all your help. I think I'll just buy it, they want £195 so can't go too far wrong.

 

[steve66]

Hi if that sale falls through mine is for sale st £150. Its a 2.5 Mercury but identical apart from stickers

 

[TangaraToo]

I have the Mercury 3.3 which is the same beast. Works perfectly but a few points to remember.
1) Unless the engine sits level when in use it can't use all the fuel in the tank. If your tender sits stern down then assume at 1/3 full the tank is empty.
2) Make sure you store and transport with the engine sitting correctly.
3) Always run the engine dry after use by shutting off the fuel tap. Failure to do this can cause plug fouling in the engine is stored incorrectly.
4) If you want more power then simply shorten the throttle arm. The only difference between the 2.5 and 3.3 is the length of the arm which on the 2.5 is extended to make it foul the casing hence restricting revs. Only other difference between the two outputs is the 3.3 having a clutch.

 

[steve66]

I have the Mercury 3.3 which is the same beast. Works perfectly but a few points to remember.
1) Unless the engine sits level when in use it can't use all the fuel in the tank. If your tender sits stern down then assume at 1/3 full the tank is empty.
2) Make sure you store and transport with the engine sitting correctly.
3) Always run the engine dry after use by shutting off the fuel tap. Failure to do this can cause plug fouling in the engine is stored incorrectly.
4) If you want more power then simply shorten the throttle arm. The only difference between the 2.5 and 3.3 is the length of the arm which on the 2.5 is extended to make it foul the casing hence restricting revs. Only other difference between the two outputs is the 3.3 having a clutch.

Hi thats slightly incorrect. The difference between a 2.5 and 3.5 is a restrictor plstevin the carb. You remove that to increase power

 

[LadyJ]

Thanks Steve66, my issue would be distance. I'm in Scotland and assume you're West Midlands so prob wouldn't work?

 

[LadyJ]

I have the Mercury 3.3 which is the same beast. Works perfectly but a few points to remember.
1) Unless the engine sits level when in use it can't use all the fuel in the tank. If your tender sits stern down then assume at 1/3 full the tank is empty.
2) Make sure you store and transport with the engine sitting correctly.
3) Always run the engine dry after use by shutting off the fuel tap. Failure to do this can cause plug fouling in the engine is stored incorrectly.
4) If you want more power then simply shorten the throttle arm. The only difference between the 2.5 and 3.3 is the length of the arm which on the 2.5 is extended to make it foul the casing hence restricting revs. Only other difference between the two outputs is the 3.3 having a clutch.

I'm showing ignorance but does this mean I can change my 2.5 to have the same power as the 3.3? I'd be keen to do that if it's an easy thing for a mechanic?

 

[TQA]

If the engines in question are 'recent' then it is worth noting that they are all made by Tohatsu and different covers / stickers get slapped on.

There is a key difference between the forward/neutral version and always in gear version which relates to the bottom end and where the impeller is located.

I do believe that the difference between the 2.5 and 3.3 powerheads is in the carb but have never bothered to play with mine.

They are the low HP eggbeater of choice in the long term cruising community in the Carib, A good 3.3 can plane a small light flat bottomed inflatable with one average person on board.

 

[steve66]

Thanks Steve66, my issue would be distance. I'm in Scotland and assume you're West Midlands so prob wouldn't work?

Hi im happy to pack it if you want to arrange a courier. Normally a quote to the Scottish mainland is around £15. Will remove the restrictor plate if you want so it will be 3.5hp.
Regards Steve

 

[LadyJ]

Hi im happy to pack it if you want to arrange a courier. Normally a quote to the Scottish mainland is around £15. Will remove the restrictor plate if you want so it will be 3.5hp.
Regards Steve

Thanks Steve, I have promised to see this other one at the weekend so will let you know if it doesn't work out. Appreciate the offer.

 

[DavidJ]

I've had the marina 3.3 (tohatsu) for well over a decade. Have never got around to servicing it( maybe this year) and it starts second pull every time. Mine is 50:1 ratio later ones are 100:1 Check out and be sure what mixture yours is designed for.

 

[Alpha22]

I'm showing ignorance but does this mean I can change my 2.5 to have the same power as the 3.3? I'd be keen to do that if it's an easy thing for a mechanic?

I have actually done this mod............

There are two things that restrict the 2.5 The first is the physical length of the throttle slide itself. The 2.5 needs to have it's top cut off to allow it to open fully. I did it with a junior hacksaw...carefully. Don't damage it, its quite fragile and has to retain its cylinder form to work properly.
The second change is the slot that the speed control leaver moves up and down in needs to be lengthened. The plastic part is removed from the engine and the end of a hacksaw blade and a file is used to extend the slot upwards. IIRC on the inside you can se the moulding marks to gauge how much to extend the slot by.

The result is not stunning, but you get a bit more grunt from the engine...... cavitation is possible if you don't get the engine deep enough... the 3.3 has an extra gear box that puts the prop about 4" lower in the water.


It's all been done before... http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?218976-Mariner-Mercury-Tohatsu-2-5hp-3-3hp-outboard