2 pack painting with perfection

aquaholic

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Just finished 2 coats of white 2 pack epoxy primer, my question is do I really need a coat of perfection undercoat before the topcoats go on?
 
Just finished 2 coats of white 2 pack epoxy primer, my question is do I really need a coat of perfection undercoat before the topcoats go on?

You dont say what epoxy primer you have used but the Data sheet for Perfection says Interprotect epoxy primer must be overcoated with Perfection Undercoat before top coat application. I'd guess the same will apply to overcoating other epoxy primers

I recommend that you visit International's website and read all the relevant Product Datasheets thoroughly. http://www.yachtpaint.com/gbr/diy/default.aspx

I think you will find that there are also fairly narrow, temperature dependent, time windows for overcoating the epoxy primer with undercoat, overcoating the undercoat with topcoat and between coats of Perfection.
 
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I would talk to a pro boat painter - International and others will sell you as many different coats as they can - but talking to an expert will tell you what's needed.
 
I would talk to a pro boat painter - International and others will sell you as many different coats as they can - but talking to an expert will tell you what's needed.

What rot. If you are going to talk to anyone talk to a coatings technologist.
 
What rot. If you are going to talk to anyone talk to a coatings technologist.

Agree. Seems daft to buy the best type of paint and then not follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to apply it - particularly one that if you get it wrong is nigh on impossible to rectify.
 
Just finished 2 coats of white 2 pack epoxy primer, my question is do I really need a coat of perfection undercoat before the topcoats go on?

A lot of people use the words 'primer' when they mean 'undercoat and 'undercoat' when they mean 'primer' but there is a big difference between a the two. Part of this problem is caused by many manufacturers now printing on tins 'primer/undercoat' which just adds to the confusion.

I would echo what has already been said that you should follow the manufacturer's instructions. International Paints have done a lot of research on what works and what does not work and have a great deal more to lose from giving poor advice than you do for not following it!!
 
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What rot. If you are going to talk to anyone talk to a coatings technologist.[/QUOTE

I prefer to talk to professionals who are at the application end of the business and listen to their hard won experiences after years of "coating" high value vessels with numerous paint systems.
 
Agree. Seems daft to buy the best type of paint and then not follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to apply it - particularly one that if you get it wrong is nigh on impossible to rectify.

I wouldn't call International the best type of paint - more a middle of the road type.
 
What rot. If you are going to talk to anyone talk to a coatings technologist.[/QUOTE

I prefer to talk to professionals who are at the application end of the business and listen to their hard won experiences after years of "coating" high value vessels with numerous paint systems.

Who you prefer to listen to is your business.

If someone comes onto a high calibre forum like the YBW forums asking for technical advice then in my opinion they are entitled to good sound advice. In this case that advice is to follow the coating manufacturers recommendations to the letter!

The OP has invested too much time and money in his restoration project to risk, in this case, poor adhesion of the finishing coats for want of a coat of undercoat.
 
Thanks for the advice, think I will go with the undercoat, not worth the risk as some have said.

When you use the top coats believe what they say about the application conditions ie temp/humidity/time. If it goes wrong and fails to cure properly it's truly horrible to sort out. My International two-pack applied in marginal humidity conditions took literally weeks to set hard enough to sand off and start again. Temp was fine, humidity probably too high. Long ago though - 1990s, and paints MAY have improved. After talking to others I eventually recoated with Awlgrip, which I was really pleased with.
 
Good advice from VicS. There are very good professional painters around and an awful lot more who talk a good talk but have no idea what they are talking about. They may well have a system that works for them but is not transferable to anyone else. Go with what the IP technical department says.
Epoxy primers are very tough but degrade when exposed to UV. Perfection top coat is designed to give long lasting gloss and colour retention but is not a good UV filter. Perfection undercoat is loaded with high opacity pigments and so gives good UV protection.
 
A lot of people use the words 'primer' when they mean 'undercoat and 'undercoat' when they mean 'primer' but there is a big difference between a the two. Part of this problem is caused by many manufacturers now printing on tins 'primer/undercoat' which just adds to the confusion.

{/QUOTE]
I searched in a number (well 2;) ) of reputable hardware shops for wood primer and couldn't find any. When I asked, I was told; "Oh, they don't make primer any more. Just put a thinned coat of undercoat on the raw timber". So there lies the probable cause of that confusion.
 
Use the undercoat. Unless things have changed you can only get white, so it needs a bit of colour added if the topcoat is dark. Rumour has it the trade can get undercoat in other shades. Beware of days that are too sunny/too windy/too cold/liable to dewfall, or in fact, any day with a 'd' in it.
 
FWIW.

A possible tip for when using two-pack Perfection, possibly also applies to similar systems.
I found out the hard way that unused hardener goes solid in the tin after some time; it is not possible, at least here, to buy just the hardener.
I now pour the unused hardener into a glass jar with a screw top. So far, this seems to have solved the problem.
 
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