2 diesel heater exhausts into one skin fitting

[cherod]

Not a good idea on exhaust pipes in my experience they can stick

Manual ball valve

 

[atol]

apart from doing the installation correctly,make sure you have a CO2 detector that works.

 

[mrangry]

apart from doing the installation correctly,make sure you have a CO2 detector that works.

Yea thanks....kind of a given is it not

 

[atol]

Yea thanks....kind of a given is it not

you would be surprised how many boats i have delivered that don't have them,or they no longer work despite having a gas cooker,diesel engine and a petrol generator etc

 

[Sticky Fingers]

Carbon Monoxide. Not CO2.

 

[mrangry]

Carbon Monoxide. Not CO2.

haha missed that

 

[scottie]

Manual ball valve

Perhaps even worse through neglect

 

[cherod]

Perhaps even worse through neglect

Why should you neglect ? Especially if it is being used

 

[atol]

Carbon Monoxide. Not CO2.

quite correct,my bad,just bought a new one the other day £17 at asda,and co2 fire extinguishers,which is another thing that you can never have enough of

 

[scottie]

Why should you neglect ? Especially if it is being used

Of course you shouldn’t but unfortunately some people do

 

[scottie]

Sorry our bickering is dropping the tenor if the thread

 

[rotrax]

wet heating is not very efficient o/b

From direct experience it is far superior to blown air heating. As long as matrix systems are avoided it is a better system. Thousands of inland waterways craft use them.

I have fitted and used a radiator system using two heated towel rails and a 1.5 metre shallow radiator under the settee berth in a Gibsea 96. Within 20 minutes we were peeling off down to tee shirts. Hot water within 30 minutes. Dont get that with blown air............................

To the OP - forget a Y piece unless you make a new outlet of double diameter. A mistake could be serious with both running together.

 

[mrangry]

From direct experience it is far superior to blown air heating. As long as matrix systems are avoided it is a better system. Thousands of inland waterways craft use them.

I have fitted and used a radiator system using two heated towel rails and a 1.5 metre shallow radiator under the settee berth in a Gibsea 96. Within 20 minutes we were peeling off down to tee shirts. Hot water within 30 minutes. Dont get that with blown air............................

To the OP - forget a Y piece unless you make a new outlet of double diameter. A mistake could be serious with both running together.

Thanks. I have ordered another skin fitting. I got the system as part of a job lot, its all new but have 2 plnth matrix type heaters so will give them a go and see but may change them later if crap. The other issue I have is that my calorifier is only a single coil so will have to fit diverter valves short term until I replace it with a twin coil unit.

 

[Boater Sam]

Thanks. I have ordered another skin fitting. I got the system as part of a job lot, its all new but have 2 plnth matrix type heaters so will give them a go and see but may change them later if crap. The other issue I have is that my calorifier is only a single coil so will have to fit diverter valves short term until I replace it with a twin coil unit.

You could insert a hot rod into the calorifier for the second circuit.
An extra 2 1/4" immersion heater flange may be needed, you could get a mechanical Essex Flange or solder wipe a plain brass one in.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Where will your heaters exhaust?

 

[mrangry]

Where will your heaters exhaust?

At the stern

 

[mrangry]

You could insert a hot rod into the calorifier for the second circuit.
An extra 2 1/4" immersion heater flange may be needed, you could get a mechanical Essex Flange or solder wipe a plain brass one in.

Interesting, will have to google that.

 

[Steve_N]

The other issue I have is that my calorifier is only a single coil so will have to fit diverter valves short term until I replace it with a twin coil unit.

Been there, done that and it wasn't a great success.
It worked fine in terms of getting the heat to the calorifier but was a pain to switch over because each system (engine + Hydronic) had it's own header tank and they weren't at exactly the same level, plus if the engine side was hot it was pressurized while the Hydronic side wasn't.
The result was always a transfer of fluid from one side to the other when operating the valves to switch over, no matter how quick you were.
Best avoided if possible.

 

[rotrax]

Been there, done that and it wasn't a great success.
It worked fine in terms of getting the heat to the calorifier but was a pain to switch over because each system (engine + Hydronic) had it's own header tank and they weren't at exactly the same level, plus if the engine side was hot it was pressurized while the Hydronic side wasn't.
The result was always a transfer of fluid from one side to the other when operating the valves to switch over, no matter how quick you were.
Best avoided if possible.

A new calorifier is the way to go. Our Gibsea was raw water cooled so the 240 immersion and the Webasto Thermo top used both inputs.

Check inland waterway suppliers - often far cheaper than marine outlets for heating bits.