1st post and i need help!

[chriscallender]

Hi

I don't think there's much to add to the advice on here on what may need to be checked, but one anecdote:

Once upon a time I managed to leave Fowey harbour with the raw water seacock closed. I ran the engine (Bukh 20) under load for a good 15 minutes (found out later some dodgy wiring to the temp sensor) until the steam & smoke from the engine alerted me to a "minor problem", I was already past the harbour entrance at this point. I shut the engine down and due to the inbound large ship decided that the smartest thing to do was have a word with the harbourmaster on VHF who very kindly obliged with a tow back to the mooring (for free!).

Damage done:

Raw water trap was melted (about £55)
Impeller was replaced (£5-10), even though I couldn't see too much wrong with it
Changed the oil and filter as it would have been cooked (£20?)

So around 85 notes and half a days hot sweaty work was the only price for not paying attention when I was setting off. And after that the engine ran fine all the way from Fowey to the Solent, and has done ever since (5 years and hundreds of hours ago).

So compare what I did to my engine (15ish minutes under load) with your little "mistake" (30 seconds at idle) and I think you'll find there is not too much to loose sleep over.


Chris

 

[Sixpence]

[ QUOTE ]
Ready for a wee Biscay crossing at the new year then? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif We'll soon have you doing the North Channel in an F8 just to go for a beer.

[/ QUOTE ]

Boring. Already pencilled in for Jester 2010 /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Shh, don't tell anyone /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Anyway, stop it wiv the fwed dwift /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[PCUK]

Good advice freely given. Welcome to the forum and stick with it!

 

[stu1982]

Thanks everyone, my first task is to recognise the engine stop lever... seems inconvenient to have to remove the engine cover everytime you want to stop it!

I'll await the books and advice of the marine engineer.

 

[Dipper]

Engine stop levers are usually fitted in the cockpit near the throttle/gear control lever or instrument panel. They are T shaped and you pull them out until the engine stops then let them back in again. Then you turn off the 'ignition' switch.

 

[nigelmercier]

[ QUOTE ]
i turned the key to off but nothing happened

[/ QUOTE ]

Others have suggested a stop lever, but on some boats you turn the key a bit further to stop.

 

[stu1982]

my cockpit speed control lever has a black ring around the stem which moves up the stem about 1/2" when pulled, could this be it?

Would it be possible for the engine not to be fitted with a remote control? Also, surley the key control panel is misleading, having key controls labelled start and stop? I'll investigate further.

 

[VicS]

Sorry i have not read the entire thread just scanned it so i may be repeating what others have said.

Agree you will not have done the water pump any favours but if there was till some water around to lubricate it it may have survived.

I would suggest that the most likely source of smoke is the exhaust system being run with no water cooling. Check the hoses and any plastic water traps and mufflers for heat damage..


There is an owners manual for the GM series HERE

 

[ShipsWoofy]

At 30 seconds I would not jump around too much, you may have got away with it.

I have started an engine with the sea-cocks closed (accidentally, lack of communication between crew and I) and only noticed when the temp alarm sounded. The engine still has the same impeller today, the dry start happened around 200hrs ago.

I am not saying don't check everything, but don't panic just yet. The rubber exhaust may have been the source of smoke, rubber will smoke off before it is irreversibly damaged. Another more fragile component is the water-lock as this is polyester type plastic, again I was lucky, but the lock was half full of water which probably helped.

As for stopping, I have 1GM10 engines, they have remote pull cables fitted, but if this is a problem, you stop them by pushing the lever as shown in the image. If you are struggling to find the pull-stop remote on your boat, follow the cable from here (it is the same as a bicycle brake cable).

 

[simonfraser]

diesel engines don't have a spark plug & thus keep going when you pull the electric on them - i guess you figured this out by now !
we all mess up, it adds to the fun of it all /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[srp]

Whereabouts on the IW do you keep your boat?

 

[Dipper]

[ QUOTE ]
my cockpit speed control lever has a black ring around the stem which moves up the stem about 1/2" when pulled, could this be it?

[/ QUOTE ]

In the absence of any learned reply to this query, I think this ring may be the neutral interlock. This means that you can't accidentally knock the lever into gear. You must first lift the collar before pushing the lever in a similar manner to some cars where you have to lift a ring on the gearstick to allow you to engage reverse. The Morse MV2 lever has this function - see picture:

If you get an engineer to check your engine, it would be a good idea to ask him to demonstrate the correct operation of the lever. For example, slamming it from fast forward into reverse without pausing could wreck your gearbox. There may also be a specific procedure to follow for starting the engine from cold. When you do eventually start the engine when afloat, don't forget to turn the seacock on to allow cooling water to flow through (if yours is seawater cooled).

Edit - before anybody else mentions it, the neutral interlock feature is not normally found on sailing boat levers. It is more likely to be fitted to fast sports boats such as ski boats. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif There's also a chance the ring disengages the gears so the engine can be revved in neutral.

 

[Tranona]

The 1GM is a simple an engine as you can get. In addition to the stop lever that shuts off the fuel you have a decompression lever that lifts the exhaust valve and stops the engine, although its primary function is to enable you to turn the engine over if starting manually. However, I along with many others have never had much success with manual starting.

It is unlikely that you have done any damage running for a few seconds without water. however, do check the water pump impellor as this will demonstrate what a B* it is to get the cover off, and then you will invest in a Speedseal cover that makes all the difference. The water pump is a weak point if it leaks as seawater then corrodes the oil transfer pipe immediately underneath it. Not a problem if you look after the pump and make sure the hose connections are secure.

I assume as it is a retrofit it has been done properly. It is important to have an antisyphon loop and valve in the water pipe from the engine to the injection point in the exhaust manifold as the engine is almost certainly at or below the waterline. It is possible for water to be sucked back into the engine and corrode the exhaust manifold. The usual exhaust set up is to install a water lock, probably by Vetus somewhere near the gearbox and then a rubber hose to the transom outlet, preferably with a swan neck near the outlet.

As you may know the engine is seawater cooled and there is an anode in the block cunningly hidden beneath the alternator. easy to check and change once a year when you know where it is.

I assume the manual you have ordered is an aftermarket DIY affair. These are OK unless you want or need to do anything serious, then you need the official Yanmar manual. However, if you look after the engine you will probably never need to do anything. Mine is 20 years old and I only had to take it apart because I failed to deal with a leaky water pump connection! But I did discover how well it is made internally.

Enjoy your boat and engine.

 

[ShipsWoofy]

[ QUOTE ]
However, if you look after the engine you will probably never need to do anything.

[/ QUOTE ]

ha ha ha

he he he

oh man that is fuuunnny, I think I am having an aneurysm.