incognito1
New Member
Anyone know which direction to undo? Any tips on keeping the pulley still? I have been told it can be jolted loose by tapping a bar and 27mm socket with a hammer if the engine is in gear...any ideas welcome.
1gm10 pulley nut
- Thread starter incognito1
- Start date
William_H
Well-Known Member
Crankshaft pulley nut
Perhaps not much help to you but I used to have Mitsubishi van and decided to change the timing belt. Very awkward to see everything but it seemed there was a nut on the pulley on the end of the crankshaft that had to come off. I tried both directions wrecked one plug type tube spanner and finally discovered that it was not a nut at all but a hex cast onto the pulley for turning over the engine. The pulley was actually removed with 3 smaller set screws around the nut.
Now assuming that it is a nut to be removed. You may be able to determine if it is LH or RH thread by close examination of any thread coming out of the nut. Otherwise assume it is RH thread.
A couple of turns of a suitable sized rope around the pulley and attached to something strong tightened by twisting a screw driver into the ropes can give a lot of hold on a pulley. Or as you say try hitting the spanner with a carefully calibrated bashometer. Preferably a ring spanner or socket of correct size.
perhaps heat on the nut will help. good luck olewill
Perhaps not much help to you but I used to have Mitsubishi van and decided to change the timing belt. Very awkward to see everything but it seemed there was a nut on the pulley on the end of the crankshaft that had to come off. I tried both directions wrecked one plug type tube spanner and finally discovered that it was not a nut at all but a hex cast onto the pulley for turning over the engine. The pulley was actually removed with 3 smaller set screws around the nut.
Now assuming that it is a nut to be removed. You may be able to determine if it is LH or RH thread by close examination of any thread coming out of the nut. Otherwise assume it is RH thread.
A couple of turns of a suitable sized rope around the pulley and attached to something strong tightened by twisting a screw driver into the ropes can give a lot of hold on a pulley. Or as you say try hitting the spanner with a carefully calibrated bashometer. Preferably a ring spanner or socket of correct size.
perhaps heat on the nut will help. good luck olewill
VicS
Well-Known Member
It is a nut!
There is no suggestion in the workshop manual that it is left handed.
It's tight though ...... 59 - 74 lbs ft. (80 - 100 N m )
The workshop manual suggests removing the starter motor and using a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to prevent the engine turning if a suitable tool to hold the pulley is not available.
A whack with a heavy hammer cushioned by a block of wood might be the way to free it. An overnight soak with some freeing oil might also help ( eg Plus gas )
You will need a puller to remove the pulley according to the manual.
Don't lose the key!
There is no suggestion in the workshop manual that it is left handed.
It's tight though ...... 59 - 74 lbs ft. (80 - 100 N m )
The workshop manual suggests removing the starter motor and using a large screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to prevent the engine turning if a suitable tool to hold the pulley is not available.
A whack with a heavy hammer cushioned by a block of wood might be the way to free it. An overnight soak with some freeing oil might also help ( eg Plus gas )
You will need a puller to remove the pulley according to the manual.
Don't lose the key!
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Tranona
Well-Known Member
Don't recall it being particularly difficult to remove against the ccompression of the engine. couple of whacks on the tommy bar and it shifted. Similarly the pulley came off with a puller quite easily.
oldharry
Well-Known Member
Had to do this on an Iveco 120hp diesel recently for the cambelt. That had a 36mm nut tightened to 180 ft/lbs, and was know to need in excess of 500ft/lbs to release it! Locking the engine against the starter ring on the flywheel was no problem, but I was quite unable to shift the nut using hand tools. Tried all the various tricks, like placing a jack under the tommy bar and using the weight of the vehicle to release it. I bent several tools trying to do it. Nothing!
Eventually I hired a mains powered impact wrench with a stated maximum torque of 700 ft/lbs.
This thing hammered away at it for nearly 8 minutes before it finally shifted! I was on the point of giving up when it finally 'went'. The compressed air version is more powerful - but needs a high pressure airline - about 120psi
The 1GM nut is quoted at around 75 ft lbs, and once the crank is securely locked against the flywheel, should not be too difficult - but if you are stuck, the local Hire Shop should be able to help. Make sure you have a decent preferably 6 point socket for the nut. I already had one, but the tool came with its own socket set.
Eventually I hired a mains powered impact wrench with a stated maximum torque of 700 ft/lbs.
This thing hammered away at it for nearly 8 minutes before it finally shifted! I was on the point of giving up when it finally 'went'. The compressed air version is more powerful - but needs a high pressure airline - about 120psi
The 1GM nut is quoted at around 75 ft lbs, and once the crank is securely locked against the flywheel, should not be too difficult - but if you are stuck, the local Hire Shop should be able to help. Make sure you have a decent preferably 6 point socket for the nut. I already had one, but the tool came with its own socket set.
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incognito1
New Member
Thanks all
Finally got the pulley off today - couple of smart whacks on the bar with a hammer, standard anti clockwise thread and off came the nut.
Had a mare getting the water pump bolts out, now have seals that appear to have glued themselves to the inside of the pump housing....perhaps a little solvent to shift them?
Cheers
Neil
Finally got the pulley off today - couple of smart whacks on the bar with a hammer, standard anti clockwise thread and off came the nut.
Had a mare getting the water pump bolts out, now have seals that appear to have glued themselves to the inside of the pump housing....perhaps a little solvent to shift them?
Cheers
Neil