1GM10 getting hot

RichardS said:
It has always been the case that some members of this forum know a thing or two about engines and try their best to help the OP whereas others clearly know very little so simply try to score infantile points as they are unable to actually contribute meaningfully to the thread. :ROFLMAO:

Richard
Click to expand...
That just proves the point. the 1Gm is and always has been a raw water cooled engine. You are unable to contribute meaningfully to the thread as you have no knowledge of the product as proved by your assumption.
 
for the record and since none mentioned it yanmar GM series are raw water cooled, GMF ones are fresh water cooled. Don't remember if there's also a 1GMF or only 2GMF and 3GMF... Oddly F versions have no body anodes or heat exchanger anodes either.
 
Tamarside said:
That just proves the point. the 1Gm is and always has been a raw water cooled engine. You are unable to contribute meaningfully to the thread as you have no knowledge of the product as proved by your assumption.
Click to expand...
You really are a thoroughly unpleasant character aren't you?

I thought that PBO operated on a level above your kind of infantile condescending points-scoring approach but I was clearly mistaken about that as well. :rolleyes:

Richard
 
Having reviewed the thread it is clear that some users would be advised to regulate their responses. If another user has given inaccurate information it should be possible to correct their misjudgement without getting personal.

Equally, if you are corrected it would be more appropriate to accept your own error and move on with good grace. This is not a points scoring exercise but a means to assist one another.

Please keep it civil.

(Reported content has been left in place for context of the above advice/warning.)
 
Forum Admin Team said:
Having reviewed the thread it is clear that some users would be advised to regulate their responses. If another user has given inaccurate information it should be possible to correct their misjudgement without getting personal.

Equally, if you are corrected it would be more appropriate to accept your own error and move on with good grace. This is not a pints scoring exercise but a means to assist one another.

Please keep it civil.

(Reported content has been left inn place for context of the above advice/warning.)
Click to expand...
I agree with the above and have always been happy to be corrected in a civil manner when I have made an unlikely assumption, as I did in this case.

However, I would suggest that if another user has gone further than that and actually given inaccurate information, it must always be possible to correct their misjudgement without getting personal.

Richard
 
Thanks for all the guidance guys.

I spent a good few hours on her this morning and swapped from the strainer directly onto the seacock which has a filter built in but it seemed even worse.

On the end I removed the hose from the seacock and simply opened it up to determine flow rate then realised it must be the seacock itself as raw water was literally dripping out and was not gushing?

Next job is to open up the lever type seacock and access the filter. I would think this is the problem and is probably gunked up. I didn't have time today as the tide was going out so Thursday it'll be!

I'm also thinking about pouring in distilled vinegar on a loop which I understand clears the engine of gunk so will give this a try also. Not really sure how to do this yet but will figure it out, hopefully.
 
Does your boat sit in the mud at low water? Sounds like the inlet is bunged up, so needs clearing. If this is a regular occurrence then perhaps you need to consider changing the seacock to a straight through ball valve going up to an above the waterline filter. That way you will be able to detach the hose from the filter and rod down to clear. To make this even easier it may be possible to site the above waterline filter immediately above the intake so that you can rod by removing the lid and the basket to get to the hose.

Normally the internal waterways do not get badly clogged on a 1GM - the most common blockages are in the pipes from the pump and the tube going into the block. if you do need to flush then suggest you use Rydlyme rydlymemarine.com
 
Tranona said:
Does your boat sit in the mud at low water? Sounds like the inlet is bunged up, so needs clearing. If this is a regular occurrence then perhaps you need to consider changing the seacock to a straight through ball valve going up to an above the waterline filter. That way you will be able to detach the hose from the filter and rod down to clear. To make this even easier it may be possible to site the above waterline filter immediately above the intake so that you can rod by removing the lid and the basket to get to the hose.

Normally the internal waterways do not get badly clogged on a 1GM - the most common blockages are in the pipes from the pump and the tube going into the block. if you do need to flush then suggest you use Rydlyme rydlymemarine.com
Click to expand...

Yes it does and I said as much to my crew mate today also! Could be that the dreaded mud has blocked the inlet. I won't be able to sort this until we crane out later in the year.

Thanks for the Rydlyme proposal, I'll look into it.
 
We’ve had similar to our 2GM20, we sit on a mud berth, the hose from seacock to strainer basket is long enough to be disconnected and lifted above water line, then open valve and pump air or water backwards and it clears the hardened mud, then lower hose into bucket and allow to run through for a bit. Then reconnect and all done. Worth a try.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

catnick1
Volvo M2020 best way to winterise cooling sytem
Replies
3
Views
139
catnick1
catnick1

Share this page

Top