1963 DAF D475 engine oil

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Steven3554

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I need to replace the engine oil in my 1963 DAF D475. It would seem that a 15W40 is going to be the best match available. However, there seems to be two schools of thought regarding whether to use mineral or synthetic. The mineral argument is that as the engine was manufactured prior to the existence of synthetic oils mineral is more suited. The synthetic argument is that it is a better product and lasts longer. In addition synthetic is about 3 times the price of mineral and I need 12 litres, but if it lasts 3 times longer then this point is moot.
Also if anyone make a recommendation for a good product to flush out any traces of the old oil this would also be appreciated.
Cheers
Steven
 
Hi and welcome.
This type of question comes up in classic car forums and people are saying don’t flush your engine because it could reduce the useful carbon under your piston rings and also loosen up years of deposit to only clog up some of the oil ways. Suggest sticking to regular oil changes of good quality standard non synthetic oil eg Castrol Magnetec.
 
Thanks guys for the quick responses and good advice. I should've mentioned that the boat is in the South of France, so sourcing Smith & Allan locally might prove difficult, Castrol Magnetec sounds like a more viable option.
I understand that mixing synthetic with mineral is a bad idea, which was why I was looking to flush out the old stuff. I can try to contact the previous owner, but the husband died and it's most likely that the wife will have no idea what was used before. If they did use a synthetic would a small trace amount be a problem?
Cheers
Steven
 
Mineral for the oil seals .
Synthetic is thiner and will leak like a sieve .

New machinery has seals to cope with synthetic.
As for change Fq , that’s really a none question as it should be done on both use age , hrs for boats, miles for cars and TIME .
Time is annually irrespective of running because the protective additive package deterioration over 12 months .
This rule of thumb is even more important with aged machinery.

A guy leasing a new company car or one on a 3 year contract , he hates it and is gonna chuck it back after the contract does not give a toss on future longevity.So happy to wait until the management light comes on at 26 months or what ever .Next change has to make it 36 months and the end of contract auction .

Your 1963 machine needs a TLC mindset .
 
Thanks for all the great advice. The Shell Rimula seems a little pricey for mineral. What I can get relatively easily from local sources are the following; Elf Evolution, Shell Helix, Total Activa plus various own brand or noname brands from places such as Carrefour and Norauto. I should point out that I don't intend to do a lot of cruising this year so spending a lot on premium oil might be a bit of a waste, as the recommendation seems to be to change it annually.
Cheers
Steven
 
Shell Rimula a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild.

Isn't the big issue that modern oils don't have the zinc and that old engines need the zinc for the flat tappets?
 
Actually Porto and BB are correct and one point missed is the internal clearances on newer engines are so much tighter and synthetic is not designed for such huge clearances, apart from zinc they don't contain many things older engines need.
 
Referred to as fleet oil in the UK. Whatever that translates into in French may be worth a look.
 
OK point taken Shell Rimula it is then. Turns out slightly cheaper in France than buying in the UK, dependent on exchange rate at the time of purchase. I'm very grateful for all of your advice, especially as one of my neighboring boaters, with 2 DAF 575s, and likes to think he knows his stuff, recommended 5W40 synthetic!
 
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Synthetic oil doesn't have to be thinner, it comes in a large range of viscosities. Having said that, I would use mineral oil in something like that.
 
Viscosity has nothing to do with oil thickness, viscosity is merely how it acts at high and low temperatures as all oil is monograde, but acts differently under different working temperatures and its this working temperature which dictates its grade.
 
Assassin, I know what you're trying to say but viscosity does loosely mean thickness, although this is not a particularly technical term. Viscosity is the measurement of internal friction in a fluid at a predefined measurement of force. Relating to engine oil we have the 2 temperature measurements; the 1st being cold and the 2nd being the running temperature.
Whilst I have all of you experts' attention could you please clear up something else for me. I understand that the protective additives start to break down after a year, something Portofino alluded to, my question is ; does this begin to happen once the oil is put into the engine or will it break down if left for a year inside the packaging? My engine requires 12 litres and I'll most likely be purchasing 15 litres, i.e. will it be OK to use the remaining 3 litres next year.
There's one other thing; I've recently been told that oil starts to become corrosive as it breaks down, can anybody comment on this?
Cheers
Steven
 
A standard method of measuring viscosity is to measure the time a ball takes to drop through a column of oil. As you could imagine a thicker oil would take longer, more viscous. The numbers in oil viscosity cover a range of actual viscosities. Viscosity reduces with temperature, at low temperatures you want a thin oil to flow easily and for easy starting. At high temperatures the oil could become too thin to lubricate. Multi grade oils basically don't thin out so much as temperature rises. This property reduces with use (not with time), I would have no problems using fresh oil stored in a sealed container for years.
 
Product s
Steven3554 said:
Assassin, I know what you're trying to say but viscosity does loosely mean thickness, although this is not a particularly technical term. Viscosity is the measurement of internal friction in a fluid at a predefined measurement of force. Relating to engine oil we have the 2 temperature measurements; the 1st being cold and the 2nd being the running temperature.
Whilst I have all of you experts' attention could you please clear up something else for me. I understand that the protective additives start to break down after a year, something Portofino alluded to, my question is ; does this begin to happen once the oil is put into the engine or will it break down if left for a year inside the packaging? My engine requires 12 litres and I'll most likely be purchasing 15 litres, i.e. will it be OK to use the remaining 3 litres next year.
There's one other thing; I've recently been told that oil starts to become corrosive as it breaks down, can anybody comment on this?
Cheers
Steven
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That’s why you change it annually , It’s not because it’s been hammered and lost it lubrication property it’s because it’s become acidic on one hand due products of combustion getting mixed in , past the rings .One the other hand the additive package that’s put in new oil starting to deplete in the chemical cocktail.

As said it’s not the hrs or milage theses days even with semi synthetic it’s the diminishing acidic protect with every stroke , or build up of acids .
From the lub pov it’s a none starter .Tests have shown oil ....any oil more so with synthetic you can do with a Merc diesel 10000000km on one oil .Quickly on a test tract doing over 100 mph ......strip it down and do a micrometer test and every thing is with in spec .
How ever leave it pickling in acidic oil for over a year ........with a fraction of hrs , but many cold starts ...Hmm .

You must change the oil based on annual intervals however low it’s usage has been ...more so in a diesel boat .
A petrol car is a different kettle of fish the rings are tighter , the cylinder temps / pressure lower , the generation of toxic acid stuff a fraction of diesels .

Another myth .
Golden brown honey coloured oil .
If it’s that colour in a diesel it’s not doing it’s job , the black particles ( toxic acid things ) are not being held in suspension out of harms way .You want to see the diesel oil turn black as it’s working holding the potentially damaging crap in suspension away from the expense metals .

And yes it’s fine to leave fresh oil in a half used container it’s only goes off when the piston and rings slide past the bores in the engine .Its fine in its container .
 
Conclusion
Oil in diesels

the oil should be changed annually because the oil's additive package deteriorates over time and gets further used up holding contaminants in suspension. This is not related to engine operation (mileage) just time.
 
Portofino
Thank you for a very complete and comprehensive answer to my second query, this information has been invaluable to me and hopefully anyone else who stumbles upon it.
Cheers
Steven
 
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Ita useful to know my annual oil change routine is worth the effort.
Oil is certainly cheaper than metal.
 
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