12v TV

We have a Linsar, distributed by John Lewis, so has 5 yr warranty. Sound and vision/viewing angle are both very good. 12v and has integrated DVD. Ours is 5 years old now so no point giving an (obsolete) model number.

John Lewis warranty is well worth having as they have a good reputation for customer service.
 
PaulRainbow said:
TV is model LT24E310
Soundbar is HW-J250
DC-DC converter is one like this (the actual one was on Ebay, but i can't find it there), lots of these around, find the best price, be sure to check/set the output voltage. Been using two of these for 18 months and no problems : https://www.amazon.co.uk/LAOMAO-Converter-10-32V-12-35V-Adjustable/dp/B00HV43UOG

The TV sound is not at all bad, but the soundbar is really worth having. Not only is the sound better, you can use it on it's own, with your phone and have radio for very little power.
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Have you found a way of avoiding the VHF interference caused by that type of convertor? I've always found they cause a background hum. Not a problem when tied up with the VHF off but the kids invariably want to watch TV enroute. The hum is more annoying than anything else and I can obviously switch off the TV if I need to use the VHF in anger but I also use one for the plotter as that was switching itself off when the engine was started as it dragged the minimum voltage below the 10v or so the plotter needs for a second. I've just replaced the main negative cable to the engine block as it was heavily oxidised so hopefully I will no longer need the converter for the plotter but it would still be good to know if there's a sultion to the interference problem.
 
Aldi were doing a 22" HDTV which is dual voltage.With DVD. 240v or 12v direct. £115 (ish) Sound is bit thin but perfectly acceptable to my grandkids and gives decent displays of Peppa Pig/Minions/Ferdinand.
 
Chaktoura said:
Have you found a way of avoiding the VHF interference caused by that type of convertor? I've always found they cause a background hum. Not a problem when tied up with the VHF off but the kids invariably want to watch TV enroute. The hum is more annoying than anything else and I can obviously switch off the TV if I need to use the VHF in anger but I also use one for the plotter as that was switching itself off when the engine was started as it dragged the minimum voltage below the 10v or so the plotter needs for a second. I've just replaced the main negative cable to the engine block as it was heavily oxidised so hopefully I will no longer need the converter for the plotter but it would still be good to know if there's a sultion to the interference problem.
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I've not noticed any interference on the VHF. When i'm underway i leave the TV and soundbar converters on, as well as a pair of converters that run my USB charging sockets and the one for the laptop. So i'm curious why you're getting it, if i'm not. Are you using the same converter as i linked to earlier ? My VHF is a Garmin black box model, located beneath one of the saloon sofas, but the converters are beneath the chart table, so they are about two feet away, separated by a single bulkhead.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Many off the shelf LG TVs in boat sizes are 12v, powered by a 240v "brick".

Many off the shelf Samsung TVs in boat sizes are 14v, powered by a 240v "brick".

I both cases i would run them through a DC-DC converter for a nice stable supply....
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Why a convertor to step up from 12v to 14v?

The acceptable voltage range in the TV's will accept a reasonable voltage range around the specified one. Your 12v boat system can vary between 11v and nearly 15v depending on charge.

We've had for the last 3 years, a standard 14v Samsung running directly from our 12v boat system via a standard 12v socket which cost about £5 to make up.

Keep it simple.
 
PaulRainbow said:
I've not noticed any interference on the VHF. When i'm underway i leave the TV and soundbar converters on, as well as a pair of converters that run my USB charging sockets and the one for the laptop. So i'm curious why you're getting it, if i'm not. Are you using the same converter as i linked to earlier ? My VHF is a Garmin black box model, located beneath one of the saloon sofas, but the converters are beneath the chart table, so they are about two feet away, separated by a single bulkhead.
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Yes - same converter although I have tried several others - same problem. If you Google DC converter interference you'll see it's commonly reported so I'm guessing the solution is to put the converter and the VHF further apart! In my case the VHF is mounted within about a foot and only separated by the the 6mm ply of the main switch panel. I was hoping there was a more "engineered" solution :-)
 
ctva said:
Why a convertor to step up from 12v to 14v?

The acceptable voltage range in the TV's will accept a reasonable voltage range around the specified one. Your 12v boat system can vary between 11v and nearly 15v depending on charge.

We've had for the last 3 years, a standard 14v Samsung running directly from our 12v boat system via a standard 12v socket which cost about £5 to make up.

Keep it simple.
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I couldn't find anything to say what the voltage range of the TV was and i wanted a stable supply, just to be safe.
 
Chaktoura said:
Yes - same converter although I have tried several others - same problem. If you Google DC converter interference you'll see it's commonly reported so I'm guessing the solution is to put the converter and the VHF further apart! In my case the VHF is mounted within about a foot and only separated by the the 6mm ply of the main switch panel. I was hoping there was a more "engineered" solution :-)
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Could be the location, or you might try ferrite beads.
 
PaulRainbow said:
Could be the location, or you might try ferrite beads.
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I did read up on ferrite beads a while back but had forgotten about them. I think I'll give them a try as they are not exactly expensive. Moving the VHF or converter would be a PITA in my case. Thanks :-)
 
Update ; nought the TV monitor and a buck converter as Paul rainbow suggested and very pleased with the result. TV draws little power, has great viewing angle and runs an external hdd for movies.

Very pleased.
 
Hello,

this thread has been useful and I thought i'd share my final conclusions in fitting a 12v TV. I decided also that some of the 12v Specific TVs were over priced and under specced.

I replaced a 19" tv / dvd combo (from 2008) with a 24" SMART LG TV which was both thinner and fitted in the same space.
as other forum members advised the LG tv is 19v DC. My boat is 12v DC. buying a simple £11 DC 12V To DC 19V 5A Step Up Voltage convertor and cutting the 90 degree 19v LG tv lead and soldering on has worked as expected.

24" smart LG TV was £150 and also has a usefully long guarantee.

hopefully this will assist others in making a good TV decision.

Regards,

John
 

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What size screen do you want? I've just replaced after 12 years my August 10" tv with the current updated model. Plenty big enough and a first-class tv with a wide viewing angle. Does all the other stuff you want as well.
 
"cutting the 90 degree 19v LG tv lead and soldering on has worked as expected.

24" smart LG TV was £150 and also has a usefully long guarantee"

Which you have now invalidated by "modifying from original" the TV PSU lead!!
 
Just put in a 12v 22" Cello LED Smart tv. Cost £180, so maybe I didn't look around hard enough, but very pleased with it, added a bluetooth mini keyboard/pad and a gps dongle, now have OpenCPN running and tracking boat ok. Oh, I can also watch telly :)
 
PaulRainbow said:
Many off the shelf LG TVs in boat sizes are 12v, powered by a 240v "brick".

Many off the shelf Samsung TVs in boat sizes are 14v, powered by a 240v "brick".

I both cases i would run them through a DC-DC converter for a nice stable supply.

Check individual models for features, but my 24" Samsung has a USB port, 2 x HMDI ports, optical digital out etc. I connect my laptop to the TV via an HDMI cable and the TV is connected to a Samsung soundbar (also 14v through a DC-DC converter) with the optical cable.

I get HD quality movies from the laptop, with almost surround sound quality sound. I can use the internet, check email and run navigation software etc on the laptop, with the output on the TV instead of the laptop screen. The laptop is controlled from a small wireless keyboard. I can also connect my phone to the soundbar, independent of the laptop and TV, and listen to any radio station in the country for free, with the Radio Player app'.

Note, when fitting DC-DC converters, connect them to a switch so you can turn them off, as they have a small current draw when not in use. I would not worry about running the TV from 240v, the battery charger should take care of that. It could be done though, with a changeover switch.
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Good advice.

However I bought one with a 12v brick and didn’t bother with the DC-DC converter. I just cut the cable off the power supply, added an inline fuse and wired it in.

It gave no problems.
 
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