12v Tv & wiring

[ozzyb]

I recently picked up a 19" LED TV/DVD for boat which turned out to be 12v with transformer. I want to rig up the wiring to also come off the 12v panel if necessary, is there any reason I shouldn't.

I have 0.75mm multi strand external cable, distance is 1m, TV unit is 12v 3.9A 47w

Any advice gratefully received

 

[prv]

I want to rig up the wiring to also come off the 12v panel if necessary, is there any reason I shouldn't.

Only that your "12v" wiring will sometimes provide 14.5v and sometimes 11ish. The telly may or may not cope with this. If the telly wasn't too expensive I might be inclined to try it, but it's your risk.

Pete

 

[ozzyb]

Further to the above.

The plan would be to use the TV/DVD occasionally on 12v whilst at anchor or when not connected to shore. Not with engine running so prob 12.7 ish volts.

 

[Scubadoo]

Done that and those figures seem similar to what I have on my TV/DVD (Technika). I just made up a two 12v plugs (one end to the TV) with a fuse and connected to my standard interior cig socket (12v Socket). I don't use it when the engine is running, however I did once without realising and the TV wasn't affected by 14v (ish).

This was also discussed some time ago on the Motorboat forum relating to cheap 12v TV from tesco at the time and the wiring.

I got the adapter for the TV from Maplins (if I remember correctly), but available else where like ebay. Just make sure you get the polarity right at the TV end!!

 

[Spyro]

I did exactly that with a cheap LCD tv I picked up on gumtree. Works fine on 12v wired direct from switch panel. Also used it with engine running so handles higher voltage fine. I have a temporary aerial that I mount on the pushpit and Have a coax run from the tv to a connector in the cockpit locker.

 

[theoldsalt]

I too have a 12v TV from Tesco which runs mains through a transformer.

I did the same as Scubadoo which works OK. However I have never used it when the batteries are being charged as I have been advised that 14v might damage the electronics and that to prevent this a voltage stabaliser is recommended.

http://www.amperordirect.co.uk/stabiliser_search.asp

 

[prv]

Also used it with engine running so handles higher voltage fine.

I strongly suspect that most kit will include a standard voltage-regulator chip on its power input and so will be absolutely fine with charging voltages on a boat. You just have to be aware that there's always a chance you got the one whose designer saved tuppence on the parts list by missing this out.

I might be tempted to open the thing up to see if it had such a chip; they have a fairly distinctive shape.

Pete

 

[st599]

I strongly suspect that most kit will include a standard voltage-regulator chip on its power input and so will be absolutely fine with charging voltages on a boat. You just have to be aware that there's always a chance you got the one whose designer saved tuppence on the parts list by missing this out.

I might be tempted to open the thing up to see if it had such a chip; they have a fairly distinctive shape.

Pete

Why? It's normally run off a regulated supply.

 

[ozzyb]

Thanks for the replies. The unit is an Hitachi so reasonable quality. I'm making up a separate cable with 4pin PowerDin plug sourced from Maplin linked to the spares trip on the panel.

Cable size was a thought, does 0.75mm seem adequate?

Thanks in advance

 

[outtametree]

I realise that several others have them working fine, but the 240v transformer gets AC current. Is it a rectifier too? If not, will the 12v system on the tv be ok with the dc currnet from the battery?
Just a thought

 

[little_roundtop]

One problem you might get when connecting the TV (or anything else for that matter) directly to the boat's 12v supply is that it's generally very noisy with pumps coming on and off and lights being turned on and off etc. Some electronic equipment (my satellite phone for one) doesn't like the spikes and sudden (minor) voltage changes that you get on a boat's electrics.