12v regulator

dgadee

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Just bought one to give me 12v (new lithium seems to spend it's time at 14v) and misread 15v to 40v input as 5v to 40v. Slight difference.

Will it work or do I need something else?
 
Probably not, but it depends on the type of regulator. If it is a simple linear regulator the input will need to be at least a volt or so above the output so it will not work with 12v input. Other switching units might possibly work but the only way to know is to give it a go. Try putting 12v or less on the input and see what voltage comes out when you draw a typical load.
The correct ones are available:
1755722590046.png
 
new lithium seems to spend it's time at 14v

Lithium (presumably LiFePO4) batteries don't really like being held at high voltages for extended periods if you can help in. I'm coming at this from the camper van world but my leisure battery in the van gets charged to 14.4V then either floated at 13.5 if needed or I turn all charging off and let it run down depending how long I'm away for.

They really like to sit between about 20 - 80% SOC.

In practice it may not really make any difference but it will reduce the life of the battery, but maybe not even noticeably.
 
It's the solar panel that keeps it charged. Anyway, off for a few weeks so will see how it copes with fridge and autopilot in real life.
 
Probably not, but it depends on the type of regulator. If it is a simple linear regulator the input will need to be at least a volt or so above the output so it will not work with 12v input. Other switching units might possibly work but the only way to know is to give it a go. Try putting 12v or less on the input and see what voltage comes out when you draw a typical load.
The correct ones are available:
View attachment 198131
He already has 14 Volts from his Li. at the input. :oops:
No idea what he wants it for but just going by his post it will probably be OK. Try it and see:giggle:
 
I wouldn't trust any cheap Ali Express item at home or on the boat. Big Clive has covered lots of various products, chargers that are badly designed etc. Just one example of cost cutting ...

 
It's to a cheap monitor which uses a 12v 240v adapter.

I have ordered another one of the correct voltage.
 
Is this any good? 10A surely more than a LED monitor needs.

AEDIKO DC Voltage Reducer Converter DC 8V-40V to 12V 10A 120W Reducer Power Converter Waterproof Regulator Module Transformer for Golf Cart Club Car: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Perhaps it is possible to regulate the output voltage from the Fogstar battery?
Looks like cheap Chinese to me. The Victron Orion will do the job but it's closer to £100.

Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters Isolated | Victron Energy
 
£20 cheap! The monitor only cost £60. If I went Victron I could have bought a better monitor instead.

Still, interested to know if Fogstar battery can regulate its output.
 
£20 cheap! The monitor only cost £60. If I went Victron I could have bought a better monitor instead.

Still, interested to know if Fogstar battery can regulate its output.
I doubt you can regulate the voltage across the terminals of any battery as that's a charge/float thing. If you want to use a cheapo regulator then can you fit a cigarette lighter plug and unplug it every time you leave the boat?
 
I doubt you can regulate the voltage across the terminals of any battery as that's a charge/float thing. If you want to use a cheapo regulator then can you fit a cigarette lighter plug and unplug it every time you leave the boat?
A plug wouldn't regulate to 12v, would it? It is just a plug.

Yes, I get the battery point - the DC to DC charger and solar are determining the actual voltage.
 
A plug wouldn't regulate to 12v, would it? It is just a plug.
Of course, the plug is just a way to stop cheap potential fire risk items being connected when you aren't there. If you hard wire the converter behind your panel, I'm not sure I could sleep with that set up.
 
Looks like cheap Chinese to me. The Victron Orion will do the job but it's closer to £100.

Orion-Tr DC-DC Converters Isolated | Victron Energy
Not withstanding post #6, i have used (on my own boats only) a few of the ones below with things of low value, such as LED strip lights, and they have always been OK. I did try one on my last boat with a cheap TV and it was also fine.

Anything of value, such as electronics, i'd use Victron.

Pardon our interruption...
 
Of course, the plug is just a way to stop cheap potential fire risk items being connected when you aren't there. If you hard wire the converter behind your panel, I'm not sure I could sleep with that set up.
As with most things it needs a fused supply. I would connect to a switch that turns the power off to the converter. But, if leaving the boat i'd also turn the main isolator off.
 
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Agreed that my initial quick suggestion was an extreme example of a cheap item.
Anything by one of the established European power supply manufacturers is going to cost £60 to £100.
Here is a possible solution from CPC if it has an adequate power rating for your needs.
CPC Meanwell at £33.64 delivered it might be suitable
Meanwell is a Chinese company but is well established and I have used dozens of their power supplies without any failures.
 
That should work fine.

I have used something similar on our last three monitors without any issues. We have been essentially full time cruising for the last eighteen years and the monitors are used for watching movies, so they have seen plenty of use.

The computer that we use to drive the monitor is also powered by a second similar DC to DC converter, once again without any problems.
 
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Has the OP checked the voltage output from his 240/12 volt power supply for the unit? he may find it is in excess of 12volts and the unit will run quite happily at 14volts. These unit usually have an operating voltage range e.g. 9-15 V. Is there a voltage on the unit data label?
 
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