12v HIGH amp Wiring Question?

[Dougal]

Hi Guys me again;-)
Not having been aboard for nearly 2 years, we're finding many new problems on this poor elderly old girl. Boats do not enjoy being neglected!
The current project is to get the electric (12v) windlass going again.
I've checked the H/D relay and main H/D 12v supply. Both good. I can operate the windlass by briefly shorting the main terminals on the relay, like a starter motor.
The issue is zero voltage on the relay inisialising wire. This wire is OEM and buried withing the GRP and is in very poor condition. It would be a serious undertaking to run another supply wire up to the relay inside the chain locker.
The small earth wire for the relay has, at some point, been spliced DIRECTLY off the H/D earth cable to the windlass motor. I'm guessing it probably didn't start life that way, as there's also black wire not connected and doesn't run to earth.
Is there any reason I can't do the same with the live feed, either a splicing into the H/D cable, or connecting directly from the relay H/D, to the initialisation terminal.

 

[lw395]

The only problem is you won't have any way of switching off the windlass from the cabin or cockpit.
So, the switch might get accidentally pressed e.g. when you are alongside.
You could fit a second switch in series.
You could go all the way and have wireless control.

 

[Dougal]

The only problem is you won't have any way of switching off the windlass from the cabin or cockpit.
So, the switch might get accidentally pressed e.g. when you are alongside.
You could fit a second switch in series.
You could go all the way and have wireless control.

Thanks for reply
The switches in the wheelhouse AND the cockpit have never worked since we bought the boat some 10 years, so I'll not miss that;-) The deck switches have covers, so not much chance (if any) of accidental use. My only real concern is whether there's any electrical danger or wiring it like this. It would only be until I can run new wires - maybe one season.
The high amp supply to the motor has a H/D disconnect switch AND a 100amp breaker too.

 

[pvb]

Is there any reason I can't do the same with the live feed, either a splicing into the H/D cable, or connecting directly from the relay H/D, to the initialisation terminal.

No reason why not; I suspect most installations are wired that way. It would be sensible to fuse the supply wires to the relay appropriately.

 

[PaulRainbow]

No reason why not; I suspect most installations are wired that way. It would be sensible to fuse the supply wires to the relay appropriately.

Exactly what i was going to say. I'd fit a blade fuse in the positive wire, close to the relay and leave it there permanently. I'd add a remote unit whilst i was doing it.

 

[lpdsn]

My windlass is below deck and the boat was, as far as I can tell, built with a switch below deck too in the forward locker. It was in poor condition when I bought the boat so I mounted a new switch (red battery switch type) in a waterproof junction box and mounted that in the for'd locker. So basically windlass is isolated until I go forward open the hatches and turn on the master switch before using it. Wiring for it is fused near the battery.

Power for the relay comes off the main positive and negative high current wiring via the foot switches.