12v DC wiring question - a few cigarette lighter sockets to add to the boat

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niccapotamus

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30ft sailing boat - new to us. and I'm rubbish tekically about electrics. but I can join wires together!!

I would like to add about three cigarette lighter sockets to the boat plus a car radio.

at the moment I have inherited from the PO a nicely organised DC switch panel with two banks of fused switches in the usual way taking the feed from the rotary battery isolator switch fed from two batteries (ie usual). The power and negative wires to the exisiting switch panels look quite large - I believe each bank of fused switches has a seperate live and negative feed from the isolator swich (not verified yet however)

The PO then got a couple of crocodile clips direct to the battery and stuck in an unfused cigarette lighter socket right behind the sink!!

I'm trying to do it right.

So I have three questions :

1. power to my new switches - i was going to add switches (ie a new fused switch panel) for the cigarette lighters and the car radio - can I take the power + negative from the main feed to the existing switch units or do I have to run a seperate feed from the rotary swich unit to the new switch panel?
2. I presume that I wire the new cigarette lighters in parallel?
3. am I going about this the right way or is there a simpler way?

Other info:
1. the new switch panel will be minimal - If i can get one, then I will only have two fused swith units
2. the existing wiring loom and switches are very tidy and run the usual small boat electrics - nav lights, cabin lights, VHF and very basic instruments. I will add an ebaspacher in later this year and update the charging circuits as an exercise later this year
3. the cigarette lighters are to run the usual charging stuff - phones, ipad etc, plus a 12v hoover

many many thanks!!!

nick
 
niccapotamus said:
30ft sailing boat - new to us. and I'm rubbish tekically about electrics. but I can join wires together!!

I would like to add about three cigarette lighter sockets to the boat plus a car radio.

at the moment I have inherited from the PO a nicely organised DC switch panel with two banks of fused switches in the usual way taking the feed from the rotary battery isolator switch fed from two batteries (ie usual). The power and negative wires to the exisiting switch panels look quite large - I believe each bank of fused switches has a seperate live and negative feed from the isolator swich (not verified yet however)

The PO then got a couple of crocodile clips direct to the battery and stuck in an unfused cigarette lighter socket right behind the sink!!

I'm trying to do it right.

So I have three questions :

1. power to my new switches - i was going to add switches (ie a new fused switch panel) for the cigarette lighters and the car radio - can I take the power + negative from the main feed to the existing switch units or do I have to run a seperate feed from the rotary swich unit to the new switch panel?
2. I presume that I wire the new cigarette lighters in parallel?
3. am I going about this the right way or is there a simpler way?

Other info:
1. the new switch panel will be minimal - If i can get one, then I will only have two fused swith units
2. the existing wiring loom and switches are very tidy and run the usual small boat electrics - nav lights, cabin lights, VHF and very basic instruments. I will add an ebaspacher in later this year and update the charging circuits as an exercise later this year
3. the cigarette lighters are to run the usual charging stuff - phones, ipad etc, plus a 12v hoover

many many thanks!!!

nick
Click to expand...


Ordinary cigarette lighter sockets are a poor idea . Often poor quality, usually unsuitable materials for marine use and do not lock the plugs in securely so poor connections are inevitable.

Search for some similar style sockets into which the plugs will lock.

There will be some links along shortly I am sure

If you have to ask if the cigarette lighter sockets should be wired in parallel I suggest you have alot to learn before attempting any of the proposed work yourself.
Harsh comment maybe but that set the alarm bells ringing

Start with Tony Brooks' Electrical course notes http://www.tb-training.co.uk/cover.html
 
Last edited:
Cigarette lighter sockets always seem to be an area that generates problems, frequently with overload, but often with corrosion and waterproofness. They do, however, score on convenience.

The elegant and safer solution is to use proper IP rated plugs and sockets, such as those made by Bulgin.

These come in varying degrees of water/dust proofness, and current rating.

Start here ?

http://www.bulgin.co.uk/Products/Buccaneer/Buccaneer7000Power-Plastic.html


Proper connectors do give peace of mind.
 
VicS said:
Ordinary cigarette lighter sockets are a poor idea . Often poor quality, usually unsuitable materials for marine use and do not lock the plugs in securely so poor connections are inevitable.
Click to expand...

I fitted a couple of these from Maplin (Part A59FL)

hama-car-chassis-socket.jpg


and they seem to be holding up pretty well. There are doubtless better solutions, but I wanted to be able to use standard car chargers for phone, tablet, laptop and so on.
 
JumbleDuck said:
I fitted a couple of these from Maplin (Part A59FL)

hama-car-chassis-socket.jpg


and they seem to be holding up pretty well. There are doubtless better solutions, but I wanted to be able to use standard car chargers for phone, tablet, laptop and so on.
Click to expand...

You can similar from ebay but they have built in usb sockets so do away with the need to use the standard car charger as well. Some come with twin 2.1 amp sockets. Similar to this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-Socke...tEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item2c83ff1444
 
You don't have to have switches for cigarette lighter sockets. Plugging something in effectively switches them on. Proper fuses are needed though.

In the same way you don't have a separate switch for them in a car.

Same applies to a car radio but there may be the complication of a connection for the station memory.

Personally I would just make sure the things are switched off by the master switch. Easier and neater.
 
niccapotamus said:
I believe each bank of fused switches has a seperate live and negative feed from the isolator swich (not verified yet however)

can I take the power + negative from the main feed to the existing switch units or do I have to run a seperate feed from the rotary swich unit to the new switch panel?
Click to expand...

This sounds a bit worrying – there should NEVER be any negative wires connected to the isolator switch/switches.
 
Rigger Mortice said:
You don't have to have switches for cigarette lighter sockets. Plugging something in effectively switches them on. Proper fuses are needed though.

In the same way you don't have a separate switch for them in a car.
Click to expand...

I don't think I have ever seen one with a built-in switch, though I suppose it's possible. All the ones I have seen are live all the time, and plugging in simply makes the connection. Or is that hat you meant?

captainboo said:
You can similar from ebay but they have built in usb sockets so do away with the need to use the standard car charger as well. Some come with twin 2.1 amp sockets.
Click to expand...

That's neat. I'm planning a major revamp of the "consumer" side of my electrics next winter, having done the supply side this year, and that could be very handy.

BabaYaga said:
This sounds a bit worrying – there should NEVER be any negative wires connected to the isolator switch/switches.
Click to expand...

Plenty of dual-pole isolator switches out there, but I have never seen a dual-pole 1-2-Both switch!
 
JumbleDuck said:
I don't think I have ever seen one with a built-in switch, though I suppose it's possible. All the ones I have seen are live all the time, and plugging in simply makes the connection. Or is that hat you meant?
Click to expand...
Sorry, I must have been unclear with what I wrote. I meant that, as you say, plugging in makes the connection.
 
Never had problems in the cabin with that type of socket, always have problems in the cockpit, so connectors here are always Bulgin waterproof type.
As for the radio forget the car radio get a nice modern DAB/FM with built-in batteries and a 12v socket. I have always got better reception and the portability means it can be with you anywhere on the boat. (and you can take it home)
 
Two good reasons for not using "car cigar lighter plug & socket" is that there is no national/international standard for them and not all plugs fit all sockets. The other is that many are not rated for higher currents and overheat - even melt - which is obviously dangerous.

There is an alternative that does have an international standard (DIN) and that is Hella.

eg
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-24v-M...626?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item565839c99a
 
Halfords, and I am sure others now do multi sockets which are 2 or more standard cigarette lighters but also Standard USB sockets as well. These come designed to plug into a cigarette lighter, but I just cut the plug off and wired it in. The benefit is most of what I want to charge is USB based which is a much more reliable connection than the cigarette lighter.
 
nigelmercier said:
One item on my list is to modify a cigarette socket to have 316 stainless contacts.
Click to expand...

http://www.bluesea.com/products/1015/12_Volt_Plug_with_Dash_Socket

Not 316 stainless but Nickel plated copper alloy used for all current carrying components


These are what I fitted throughout with no problem, including in the cockpit. The previous ones just rusted away being plated mild steel.

IMHO 316 stainless is a bit over kill unless you intend to fit them outside below the waterline.
 
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