110 vs. 240 AC

MapisM

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Another question related to US boats AC equipments, gentlemen - further updates on my findings next week...
Aside from the obvious need to have have a step down box when docked, and use only 110V appliances on board, is there any trouble in having ONLY 110V onboard?
Frinstance, is 240V required to get the boat CE-marked? Or are US sockets not CE-compliant maybe?
I can't see logical reasons for that, but I'm well aware that common sense and bureaucracy are rarely aligned....
 
The step down box is not always enough for US boats, some of the gear aboard may/will be frequency dependant, 110 @ 60hz, 230 @ 50hz. So keep a weather eye open for those components, like AC systems etc.
Dunno about the ce marking type stuff.
But in most caeses, you just say, "the 110v system is defunct" Then no need for it to be compliant!! Savvy?
 
Buy some heavy duty industrial transformers like used on building sites for portable tools and install them where your power comes in to the boat, you will then be able to travel in europe withot problems. Also you will get galvanic isolation as a side benefit.

I have installed and worked on imported boats that have these installed, so your problem is quite common.
 
Thanks for your hint.
Do you have any reference/web link to the kind of transformers you're talking about?
 
Depends on what the AC system is just now. Is it only 110 or is there also 220? Some US spec boats have this. There are 2 hot legs at 110 volts each but out of phase so it gives you a PD of 220 volts.

I have this on my boat and have installed a transformer with taps on it to suit where the incoming voltage is from, Europe or US. The outgoing taps are set to 110-0-110 so I still get the benefit of an isolation transformer but still have the option of 110 volts and 220 volts.

You can buy Victron invertors to suit this arrangement with 2 hot legs.
 
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Is it only 110 or is there also 220? Some US spec boats have this...

[/ QUOTE ]In the case I had in mind, the boat had ONLY a 110 system.
The point you're raising is interesting, though.
Yes, it's true that some US boats can handle both. Some of them also have two gensets, one for 110 and another one for 220.
But my original question was about how much sense it actually makes to handle both - aside as I said from the need to step down the dock AC if you only have 110 onboard.
In fact, if the boat has: fridges, TVs, airco (to name just a few of the AC onboard appliances), all running at 110, I'm still missing the reason for handling ALSO a 220 AC system.
Even if you have guests onboard, what kind of equipment would you expect that they might bring requiring 220?
Frinstance, any portable PC and electric razor can handle 100-240 these days, and surely no guest would bring his own microwave oven....
...or am I missing something?
 
Personally I wouldnt bother with having 220 aboard as well as 110. Why would you need 220? Unless of course you do wish to have a seperate circuit for European type equipment, although its very simple to have a seperate circuit for that, just plugged into the post in a marina. I certainly wouldnt bother with a seperate genny, you are getting way to complicated then.
 
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Yes, it's true that some US boats can handle both. Some of them also have two gen sets, one for 110 and another one for 220.

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My gen set produces 110 and 220 using the 2 hot leg system. I think all the Onan gen sets can do this.
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But my original question was about how much sense it actually makes to handle both - aside as I said from the need to step down the dock AC if you only have 110 onboard.

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None that I could see, depends where you want to do most of your cruising and if and when you want to replace your onboard appliances.
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In fact, if the boat has: fridges, TVs, airco (to name just a few of the AC onboard appliances), all running at 110, I'm still missing the reason for handling ALSO a 220 AC system.

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The existing AC system on my boat was 220, you should check yours. Most of the larger US AC units use 220 volts for the water pump. Also remember that US TV uses a different system but if you're installing new TVs this wouldn't be too much of a problem as some new LCD TVs are 12 volt.
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Even if you have guests onboard, what kind of equipment would you expect that they might bring requiring 220?
Frinstance, any portable PC and electric razor can handle 100-240 these days, and surely no guest would bring his own microwave oven....
...or am I missing something?

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Phone chargers are the only thing most people bring but that's not a problem!

The main thing I have retained is the ability to plug in to shore power either side of the pond, I have 2 separate shore power sockets, 1 dedicated to each voltage. Getting back to the original question, do you really need the hassle of having to source US appliances if something packs in?
 
Faced a similar issue with my US Formula. Fitted a transformer sourced from airlink per above thread. Subsequently got ce marked with no problem. Have replaced the original US TV set with UK LCD and video player as you can find some here in the UK that use a 110v - 240v power pack. Invested in a 110v kettle and toaster when last in the US. Other portable uk items such as phone charges, laptops, Nintendo DS, camera charges etc all use 110v - 240v so no problem. Only appliances that may be missed are hairdryer, but that may blow your shore power limit anyway, so best to leave that ashore anyway.
 
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