No, I understand and thanks for paraphrasing him. Hopefully the next issue will include my article that explains the subject on more detail.
One small historical item included that I found interesting was that the first known use of small arsenic additions to control dezincification was in the...
This is a common issue with a certain surveyor. Every adverse comment of his about DZR is accompanied by photographs of zinc plated valves. DZR is never plated, his comments relate to 60/40 brass.
These constant errors have been pointed out many times to the editors of PBO and YM, by me and...
Total gibberish.
1. What does manganese have to do with it? Neither bronze, brass nor DZR contain it.
2. Arsenic forms a solid solution in copper alloys. Any could safely be licked.
3. Blakes are DZR. They do not corrode.
4. We know exactly what is beneath the shiny layer (chromium). It is...
I read it, along with many other magazines, on Readly. Unfortunately there seems to be a delay between publication of the paper version and the digital. Still waiting to see the response to my letter from the originator of the nonsense.
My motorhome has a bulkhead regulator that will take either butane or propane. We generally use Autogas, whose composition varies enormously, from 100% propane in UK to mostly butane with some propane in parts of Europe, 50/50 in others.
Exactly. Galvanised screws and bolts available nowadays from vast numbers of outlets are not produced by immersion in molten zinc, they are electroplated. Their finish is bright, so they look better, but the zinc thickness is very small indeed and alloying with the steel substrate does not take...
I have been using two of these, one on the Rocna, the other on the Fortress, for more than 20 years. This photograph taken in 2007 is the originator of my three chain links idea, now used worldwide. The Wichard shackle was not new then and is still in use. After 5 years or so the galvanising...
That is why I suggested in a previous post that the correct way to do it is to mark the line first, then follow it with the hacksaw, not attempt to get through with a single cut. It takes years of practice to make a square single cut, whereas anybody can make the blade follow a line.
A hacksaw is the perfect tool. Use a fine blade, 24 tpi perhaps. Mark the cutting line all around the extrusion, then cut along it. Do not try to cut right through with a single cut. Keep rotating the boom, cut following the marked line.
Flat anchors such as Danforth, Fortress, etc hold very well in thin mud, as the tests carried out by Fortress a few years ago illustrated so vividly. They do have the reputation of not resetting after windshifts but many owners would dispute this.
Having carried Deltas for many years all over...