Recent content by vas

...and assuming hull is clean and boat is not under/over-propped, the WOT test and measuring temps with an IR meter in the e/r! V

and all that as part of the pre-sale check, right? nice 😁

when I was setting up the system on the boat, I did all panel/bat connection tests at night 😁 better safe than sorry! OK, you have to wait to see the results but rather do that than having to fork out for another controller

would be extremely interested in explaining how the heck you're going to measure load in a 3208. Only gauges available are a tacho and a series of nice vdo analogue gauges for temps/pressures/etc. further, what you describe Porto is a decent procedure to follow health of engines you KNOW. Buying...

I know it's not particularly polite to answer a question with a series of questions, but I really would like to know: how are you meant to measure airflow and pressure on a fully analogue engine like the cat 3208? also how do you access performance? how do you know the 100% on a particular...

if the filter is 6in above w/l its unlikely to fill with the lid off. However if the pipe is clear you should see the water level where it should be. This looks like an air leak issue. Could be anything from misplaced o-ring on the vetus filter lid, to air leak on the pipework from filter to...

Yes, i'd say it's absolutely fine. I'd suggest you improve the engine box sound insulation and just forget about it. (or do what IanCC suggests) ...and btw @IanCC this reshimming is it just a matter of removing the injectors and getting them to the specialist to check they break/open whatever...

reasonably quiet I would say, I think all of the GM series motors have this "ready to fall apart and throw the piston through the head" feel (and sound) to them 😁 my 2gm20f does that before and after the full rebuilt...

if it's anything like the trim tabs ones i have, take care you're not fitting imperial measured olives in mm speced plastic pipe (or the other way round) measure with calipers EXACTLY the OD of the plastic pipe and get the right olives that will fit. Having said that, pipe seems well used and...

not a purist by any stretch owning a twin turbodiesel mobo, but leaving an quiet anchorage early in the morning with no wind and a couple of ropes to the rocks/trees on the beach I'm happy to let the nearby boat occupants sleep in peace, swim out, remove ropes, pull anchor in slow bursts...

+1 on what Paul said above. The cables/switch is tiny, just providing the juice to "close" the circuit and run the big relay that engages the up or down. Often bypassed by "stealing" voltage from the main power cable arriving to the relay ;-) I ALWAYS use this switch to disable inadvertent use...

I'm with mr Googler on that, wire the new A2D up, get your plotter to display and run the engine on idle and start playing with the whatever settings you have - 7 toggles is a piece of cake... :-) some will be way off, so easy to get close to the right ones relatively quickly. I remember once...

generally useful to regularly check for new firmware and update it. They bring updates/new features/stability tuning fairly often on newer models, a couple of times a year for older ones.

I'm using both at the boat and home the built in antennae. On a f/b boat the router is under the lower helm dash (not the best spot by any stretch of imagination!) but still the RUT240 (smallest of the range 4G on the boat) works fine up to close to 10nm so haven't bothered to install something...

fwiw, the TELTONIKA series have a fancy 4pole plug and a 12V power brick, BUT if you read the documentation that comes with it, will work from anything from 9-30VDC. Hence I scrapped the brick and wired straight into my 24V system. Works fine 24/7 for the last 3yrs so definitely wouldn't bother...