Recent content by Sea-Fever

It’s amazing the twigs stay stuck to the boat. They must use really strong PVA….or maybe copydex.

Yes, you’re right, although I’m not sure the difference would be that great. The line on my furler is thin, circa 6mm (haven’t measured it). In a blow it’s does somewhat cut into the hand when furling…..maybe I should service the whole lot rather than gloss over the fact that it is stiff by...

Sorry I should have said the radius of the bare drum is relevant only to the extent that you need to work out the available area which could be expressed as drum length x (max drum radius - bare drum radius)

I think the diameter of the bare drum is irrelevant. If you have a massive or tiny drum it won’t change how many turns you need to furl and unfurl…..that’s dictated by the sail and foil size. It may effect how easy it is to furl, and how much furling line is required, but not the number of...

I could probably work this out if I put my mind to it but I’m far too lazy…… If your roller furling drum has length L, and you accept that the number of turns required to furl/unfurl remains constant (let’s say N) what is the relationship between the thickness of the furling line D and the...

Yes a sharp scraper might be better, thanks.

Many thanks, I think it’s more a case that the grey Interdeck was paint straight over the original blue deck paint….at some point the whole lot will have to come off but I suppose I’m looking to avoid doing a full monty.

…also can anyone recommend a grade of abrasive pad for this task. Cheers.

Evening all, or morning perhaps…..depending where you are…. I need to refresh areas of deck paint where the grey Interdeck is flaking. I may be able to get away with doing this by hand thus allowing some maintenance whilst afloat in the marina, so ideally I’d like to avoid power tools. Has...

If you’re going to heat seal with a hot knife make sure the end doesn’t spread out….it can get caught it a sheave at the top of the mast, or somewhere else awkward, giving you a headache. For what it’s worth I whip and then cut and then heat seal being careful not to damage the whipping.

My ten pence….. They would probably be great but it’s just another thing to keep charged isn’t it?

I think you may be right. My kettle idea is sound less daft.

Bit of Googling suggests the bulb standard may be PAR36

Also because it’s never worked and the switch panel lacks any labels, as does the wiring behind, it is very difficult to diagnose the fault without getting the lamp unit out. Today I did locate the steaming light circuit which was dangling in free air. Reconnected and lamp swapped with an LED...

As you can see from the photo it’s riveted on. I don’t want to drill it out. I assume, but don’t know because it’s never worked, that it is a halogen bulb. I would be content keeping the housing and replacing the lamp unit with LED as per the link above. If only I could get the b***ard thing...