Recent content by Mickyfinn

Having sourced a new log thru hull housing, I now have the dilemma of what product to use to bed in the new unit ….. any opinions??

My Raymarine ST60 log housing (thru hull unit) has fractured. I have sourced a replacement at a Cactus Marine. The inside of the thru hull fitting has a screw flange to seat the outside flange. Does anyone know if the unit will need drilled out, or whether it might be “persuaded” to slide...

Thanks for that. I can’t understand (as with others) why the lower unit is grease packed and the upper is open and dry. Perhaps the dowsing in salt water if the lower unit is the issue, assuming the upper swivel to be above the salt water ?

I know its a long time since you posted the above, but I'm about to "deep service" my Facnor SD180 drum. I am wondering if you did indeed replace the SS balls with Delrin, and how it faired in life afterwards ! How did the upper swivel Delrin bearings work out? My top unit is a C38...

Mine is the 2003 version, open at both ends with no seals ......... so your old top swivel was not greased/oiled at all, and open to the elements? How did you service it, or did it die?

Hi there .......... I have a Facnor SD180 on my Dufour 40 that I am about to service. I am surprised about the possibility of not grease packing the main drum bearings, as mine were completely full when I serviced them a few years ago. I rebuilt the drum with much less grease. Is there...

Well what’s not something I’d thought of...... warm air higher up will have greater moisture content. I’ve just changed a condenser type for a desiccant type ....... it’s like a fountain !!!!

I can put my dehumidifier on the galley worktop draining into the sink, or on the floor draining down the log hole up forward. Does anyone know if height makes any difference? (Of course making sure the drain pipe runs downhill). Does damp air sink or rise, or neither?

Thanks for everyone's help. It's really nice that there are people out there willing to give some time to help others. Mike

A quick trip to the boat tonight....... the engine start battery was 13v cold terminal voltage. With glow plugs on for 10 secs or so, the terminal V dropped to 12.6. Seems satisfactory to me, but still doesn't explain why the GP's are evidently rated at 10.5v. Maybe I've got too much time...

I measured rail voltage between the battery neg terminal and the + connection to the rail, glowplugs ON, engine NOT cranked. I used a multimeter on 20v dc scale. Why would the rated V of the plugs be 10.5v ....... the engine is not cranked till after the plugs are off? So there is no cranking v...

I just like things to be as perfect as possible. Helps stop future problems?

Ok........ new glowplugs fitted (one of the only “5 minute jobs” I’ve ever done! And tested. Rail voltage has not changed, still 11.3 ish, but the engine burst into life with great enthusiasm almost before I pressed the start button! So all’s well. I’m am still puzzled by the rail...

I'll find the facts tonight !