Recent content by johnlilley

Strip build vessels of that year were constructed using long strips of iroko (in this case) sometimes mahogany laid longitudinally one on top of the other, glued edge on edge and long steel nails driven from the top edge into the underlying two or three strips as the hull was gradually built...

If it helps, go to my website & download the free survey template, Choose GRP or wood. It might help you go through the boat objectively yourself without any expense.. Click surveys samples & owner checklist

The crazing is almost certainly u/v damage Occurs a lot on boats from a few builders, Westerly gel coat particularly so. Not structural but not easy to permanently disguise as painting does not always work as the crazing is inclined to print through unless you cut the gel coat back below the...

Alycdon used to be in Weymouth, did some major repairs to her after storm damage on WSC moorings many years ago but have a feeling she was eventually broken up. Picture after repairs. here Built around 1949 I think.

Just be aware that iroko will be a lot heavier than the original 3/4" as built deck and will almost certainly have a limited affect on the stability depending upon how much freeboard you have and the overall size of the deck. There are methods of improving the risk of stanchion base leaks...

Hmmm. That's unfortunate. Your experience with ply & epoxy sheathed deck is not good. Do you know why the water got beneath the ply as generally this method should easily last 30 years or more. It sounds as if you followed the "rules", that is everything lifted off deck including toe rails &...

Cold bending will almost certainly work if the section is somewhere around 50mm x 25 mm or less. Fastenings every 7 inches or so bending into position gradually. Looking at the photo, I don't think the stake is teak though. Not instantly recognisable but certainly looks a bit degraded...

Perhaps , if you have a router, you could set it up with a parallel straight cutter of an appropriate diameter, temporarily fix a straight guide to the centre case somehow , and simply rout a deep straight channel taking in the split and the glue in an accurately machined mahogany spline...

Next time I'll make every effort to read the post I'm replying to!

You don't say whether the hull is grp or wood. If wood then consider not connecting the anode up to anything as anodes fitted to timber hulls are very destructive to the hull if they are wired to the structure. John Lilley. Seasurveys.co.uk

Not easy to absolutely positive but can I see a crack extending down from the top of the leading edge of the moulding for some distance at the point of the stock exit point. If so then the rudder could be suffering from separation of the two halves caused by excess stress of the rudder...

Yeoman Navigator Pro. All complete with manual. Good condition. £13.00

PM "d you about this

The photo of the transom does appear to suggest that the transom board or plank might be a bit suspect at the base where the plywood connection is failing causing possible fastening security failure. Have you confirmed that this area is sound and hard both internally & externally.

I think you will find that the distance clear above the burners is a minimum of 600mm in most cases.