Recent content by Gordonmc

Thanks for your reply. Nice installation.. If you look at my pic I have run a hose from the spigot on top of the exchanger, the one with three bolts, to an expansion tank. I just wonder if anyone runs this engine as a closed cooling system and, if so, what is the spigot on top all about?

I am installing a Nanni 4.105 diesel and could do with some advice on the cooling system. The engine was bought second hand and came with little in the way of paperwork. The seller informs me the engine was not designed to be installed with an expansion tank but is a closed system. If that is...

For what it is worth I installed a Marine Power (or TDME as it was then) 46 hp four cylinder engine in my boat. Repeatedly I tried to source oil filters through Marine Power and consistently they sent the wrong ones. Either the spin-on thread was all wrong or they were completely the wrong size...

There was a oops moment when my boat was being lifted last year. The aft ship-lift strop caught the rudder which couldn't take the 15 tons-odd and broke in two places. I have rebuilt the rudder, laminating 12mm marine ply and am now ready to encapsulate in glass. I would prefer to use epoxy...

Eat it. If you are talking spaghetti seaweed, Himantalia elongata, just rinse it in fresh water then allow to steep for half an hour before a quick boil. Its best added to linguine or other pasta. Tastes a bit like samphire Most of the commercially available stuff comes from Brittany but I had...

I buy ACF 50 in 950ml bottles which come with a hand spray. Much cheaper than aerosols and does the same job without wasting money on propellant. I get through a fair amount as it goes onto my classic car and tools as well as the boat.

A pedantic note: Malta is one of the small number of countries which has a distinct maritime ensign in addition to its national flag. Moreover, AFM vessels have a different Jack.

Symptoms were rough running on tick-over, smoke at all revs and a smell of diesel in the exhaust and the final indicator, the sump oil level way over the dipstick mark. I tried the trick of running neat diesel additive through the system but although there was a slight improvement, thing were...

I cancelled yesterday by email. Just sent a one-liner to magazinesdirect@quadrantsubs.com An acknowlegement was in my inbox this morning. I have been a subscriber for nigh on 15 years. I found the useful articles repetitive and the rest are puffs.

The likelyhood is that the CG were needed to get the imobilised casualty from the deck to ground level once she was extracted. If the boat was on the hard, which the report suggests, you could be looking at several metres.

Signed, but it is worth saying that the professional creel fishermen I have come across in my local waters do not pose a threat. Lines are well marked with big day-glo bouys marked with the name of the boats which laid them. Sinkers are weighted so the lines are vertical in the water, whatever...

Have a look at POR15 for rust protection. It is widely used in car restoration, particularly for chassis and frames. In my view Hammerite is not the product it was before Finnigans was bought over.

I agree with what others have said about WD40 which is a water dispersant, not a penetrating fluid. I have been restoring old cars for years and one of the best acquisitions was a set of hex-sockets after stripping an untold number of heads with multi-point sockets. Applying lots of heat might...

As others have suggested, a Dremel or very thin angry-grinder blader to cut a slot and remove the washer, BUT before attempting to turn the screw put a soldering iron tip on the screw head and get it good and hot. That should give a thermal shock to the seal.

The Yanmar coupling I took off my 35mm shaft when replacing the engine had four Allen headed bolts and a smaller allen headed machine screw grub bolt which went into a shaft indentation. It had an allen head and was locked with a nut. It looks as though yours has gone walkabout. Edit... posts...