Recent content by DavidJ

Never Just make sure it’s in the water when you sell it

There are so many people upgrading from analogue that the market is flooded with working analogue radomes…….or it was 5years ago when I sold off my old stuff for a song. I edit I’ve just had a search…….they are not cheap any more!!!! eg Raymarine/Raytheon Radar and Radome

…..always be aware that the S38 hull problems seem to be well remembered and will not go away when you come to sell the boat. (Assuming you buy)

I’m a bit surprised that a 2005 S38 went back to the factory for strengthening work. My believe was that it was only the first two or three S38’s that suffered with hull problems which were given to Desty Marine for rectification and no further problems seen. I had one of the last S37’s in 2002...

I’ve owned an S23 and they are great but would only attempt a crossing like that in a convoy of at least two boats, even then I would hesitate to take it on. I’ve been caught out with our S37 (in the Med, Golf of Lion) doing a 100 mile crossing, starting and finishing in a f2 but f6/7 in the...

Depends of course on the criteria for ranking. I guess SL have chosen “over 24 M” as their criteria Ferretti Group confirmed as a world leader in yachting

The problem is of course finding the one that will cope with the significant starter solenoid current. The solenoid has two coils. For a mid size marine engine I’d suggest there would be an initial pull in one of approx 50A and a holding one (when the drive gear is fully meshed and cranking) of...

The problem with these things that at the time you just want to get back on the water. In the cold light of day and with time you strip down the old one and realise it’s just bit of resistance build up on the contacts. It was clicking so the coil was OK. Two minute with emery paper and job...

To be honest it does look a bit fancy

When you say relay are you referring to the (pre-engage) starter motor solenoid which “piggy-backs” on the side of the motor or a separate relay that just supplies 12V to the solenoid from the ignition switch. If the latter then a Halfords automotive relay (of the correct current value) should...

Hang about! You may find after removing the fuse that you don’t have a problem. Lock-torque amps on a car starter motor is about 500A and cranking reduces down to 250A and below so not surprised that you blew a 125A fuse on a marine engine with probably double the above figures for a larger...

With a spanner on the crankshaft can you compare the stiffness of one engine with the other. Im thinking it’s not a starter motor problem (for your sake I hope I’m wrong)

I’m at a loss why the technician didn’t replace the main seal anyway while he had it on the bench. You have already incurred most of the cost of this operation so the cost effect of a seal change would be marginal.

I just used an electrical screwdriver (that sort of size) and just scraped it around where the rotor goes. I take it your rotor will move although just a bit stuck. Don’t put any pressure on the rotor or you might deform it. When you can achieve a couple of free spins, job done